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The Accidental Chef.  Ultimate Resource For Cooks, Chefs And The Latest Food Trends

The Accidental Chef

Mistakes are an essential part of cooking. Without them, we might not have brownies, oyster sauce or hummus that’s as light as a cloud.

Lee Kum Sheung invented oyster sauce, a salty brown condiment that is now a staple in millions of homes, in 1888, when he was a 26-year-old street-food vendor in Hong Kong. He’d left a pot of oysters to simmer for too long, then tasted the brown sticky mess and found, to his surprise, that it was delicious. He began making the burned oyster sauce deliberately and selling it in ceramic jars under the Lee Kum Kee brand.


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His brilliant mistake would make his family richer than he ever could have imagined: In July, when Lee’s grandson (Lee Man Tat) died at age 91, the family’s wealth was valued at more than $17 billion. And although the Lee Kum Kee brand now sells numerous other sauces, from soy sauce to chili bean paste, oyster sauce remains its most famous product.

I love stories about iconic dishes invented by accident because they make me feel less despairing about the mishaps that happen in my own kitchen every day.

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This week alone I have: burned some pine nuts, dropped pieces of egg shell in a cake mix and added too much water to a plum compote (it ended up like plum soup). Sadly, none of these mistakes led to any delicious new inventions (unlike burned oysters, burned pine nuts just taste plain bad).

But it is comforting to think that just sometimes, culinary triumph can be snatched from the jaws of a muddle. When I fail to add the baking powder in a cake, I remind myself that at the turn of the century, exactly the same mistake may have given us the brownie, when a cook in Bangor, Maine, forgot the baking powder and discovered that she liked the dense texture that resulted.

When I let a pan of food burn, I think of the Tatin sisters—creators of the tarte Tatin—who thought they had burned the filling for an apple pie at their hotel in France in the 1880s, only to realize they could rescue the caramelized filling by baking the pastry base on top of the dish of apples instead of underneath and then turning the pie filling-side up on the plate.

Even if not every accidental food-creation story is true, such “eureka” moments do happen.

The internet is full of lists celebrating these “accidental food inventions.” Without fail, such lists will mention chocolate chip cookies, Popsicles and potato chips, three of the most iconic American snacks. Popsicles supposedly came about in 1905, when Frank Epperson left some sugary soda on his porch overnight with a stirring stick stuck in it, and it froze solid.

Potato chips are supposed to have come about at Moon’s Lake House in Saratoga Springs in 1853, when a wealthy and demanding customer kept sending back his fried potatoes, asking chef George Crum to make them crisper.

In 1930, Ruth Wakefield ran out of baking chocolate for cookies and added a chopped up a bar of chocolate instead. She was amazed to discover that the little pieces of chocolate didn’t melt throughout the dough but remained studded at intervals in the cookies. Behold, the chocolate chip cookie!

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Sadly, not all of these culinary legends hold water. Take the potato chip. As Dick Burhans recounts in “Crunch! A History of the Great American Potato Chip,” if chef George Crum really did invent chips by accident, it is odd that Mr. Crum’s obituary in 1914 made no mention of it. The Crum story didn’t start to circulate until the 1930s.

A likelier inventor of the potato chip is Katie Wicks, another chef at Moon’s Lake House. Ms. Wicks’s obituary in 1917 credited her as the creator of the potato chip. It is possible that, far from being an accident, Ms. Wicks learned how to make these chips from her brother-in-law, who was a chef at another hotel in Saratoga Springs.

But even if not every accidental food-creation story is true, such “eureka” moments do happen. Food writer Hetty McKinnon —author of “To Asia, With Love: Everyday Asian Recipes and Stories from the Heart”—recently forgot to drain a can of chickpeas and ended up making her best-ever hummus.

“It came about purely by accident,” Ms. McKinnon told me by email. By the time she noticed that she had tipped in the whole can of chickpeas, water and all, it was too late. She pressed ahead, adding the tahini, lemon and garlic.

When she turned on her blender, she found that far from being a watery mess, this hummus was “light, airy, cloudlike.” The reason is that chickpea water—also known as aquafaba—has amazing emulsifying properties (vegans sometimes use it in place of egg whites).

“Nowadays, even though it isn’t traditional, it is the only way I make hummus,” Ms. McKinnon said. I can confirm that her accidental (and very easy) recipe produces a hummus that is astonishingly whippy and light.

I am ever more convinced that mistakes in the kitchen should not be seen as anomalies but as an essential part of the cooking process. Most of the delicious things we eat every day came about through someone else’s trial and error many years ago. Almost everything fermented, including bread and cheese, must once have been a mistake-turned-good. What is yogurt but rescued spoiled milk?

One of the greatest advocates of mistakes in the kitchen was the food writer Julia Child. She once tried to cook hamburgers on the David Letterman show, but the burners wouldn’t work, and the meat remained stubbornly raw. Unfazed, Ms. Child repurposed the burgers as steak tartare.

Ms. Child once argued that the art of cooking was really “one failure after another.” This was no cause for despair, she said, because making mistakes is “how you finally learn.” Not every kitchen accident will make it into the history books, as oyster sauce has done. But learning how to take the burned bits in your stride makes you a better cook.

Updated: 9-21-2021

This Is Better Than Butter—Whether You’re Cooking Steaks or Roasting Vegetables

Ghee is pure butterfat and culinary gold. Its nutty flavor and high smoke point make it super versatile as well as delicious.

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IT’S HARD TO pinpoint just when ghee was invented, but the why is pretty clear. Ghee is butter that has been heated and clarified—that is, had its milk solids and water removed to produce pure butterfat. This gives it a long shelf life, a virtue in its native India where hot temperatures can quickly turn butter rancid.

Ghee has remained popular, even revered—and for good reason. During the clarification process, when the butter is cooked, the milk solids begin to caramelize, giving ghee a nutty flavor. This makes it ideal to fry an egg in, stir into rice or drizzle over roasted vegetables.

And when the butter is strained to remove the solids, it obtains a tremendously high smoke point, around 485 degrees—more than 100 degrees higher than that of ordinary butter—which sets the stage for a steakhouse worthy rib-eye.

Cookbook author Nik Sharma uses ghee to make the Indian dishes he grew up with, but he also reaches for it for dishes where you want to taste the flavor of the fat. “Any recipe that calls for duck fat—roasted potatoes or fried eggs—you can swap in ghee,” he said.

Ultimate Resource For Cooks, Chefs And The Latest Food Trends

Ghee’s popularity means it’s easy to find it at the grocery store. But making your own is easy, too: Melt butter over low heat and cook until it stops crackling—which means the water has evaporated—and the solids take on a honey-brown color. Then, strain through cheesecloth into a jar. It will last up to three months in a cool, dark place.

Where To Buy

Nik Sharma seeks out Indian brand Swad for its buttery flavor. ($15 for a 16-ounce jar, ) Pure Indian Foods offers an organic, grass-fed version. ($12 for a 7.8-ounce jar,

Updated: 9-24-2021

Forget Pumpkin Spice: This Peach Cake Recipe Is The Dish Of The Moment

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When the legendary pastry chef Gina DePalma died, she left behind one of the greatest cookbooks never published. It includes this simple, stunning cake.

Yes, pumpkin spice season arrived early this year (as it seems to do every year). But that isn’t stopping peaches, which are still kicking around after a strong summer. There’s time to grab them from market stalls before they disappear with fall’s arrival.

That’s what Gina DePalma would do. The legendary pastry chef ruled the kitchen at Babbo in downtown New York in its heyday before she passed away in 2015 at the age of 49, with a second cookbook unpublished. She created singular desserts that leaned Italian, such as maple mascarpone cheesecake and a mesmerizing saffron panna cotta.

This was an intoxicating version of Italian-American cooking that has since been popularized by the Carbone crew; along with the savory menu, it was a sensation in late ‘90’s New York.

“When Babbo opened, it really was a change in restaurants, high-end places didn’t serve dishes like brain ravioli,” says Ruth Reichl, who gave the place three stars as the restaurant critic for the New York Times. “In those days, when you went to Italian restaurants it was tiramisu, tiramisu, tiramisu. Gina’s desserts pushed the envelope. I’m not a huge sweets eater—but her desserts, I wanted.”

Now a former colleague is working to bring DePalma’s shelved book to the public. Food writer Adam Reiner, author of the Restaurant Manifesto blog, calls “My Sweet Italy” “the greatest cookbook never published.” The manuscript includes more than 100 recipes, almost all desserts, and chronicles trips to Italy in a style that the late Anthony Bourdain, a DePalma fan, would have admired.

“Very few people made Babbo more special than Gina,” says Reiner, who worked there with her for about 10 years as a server. “She came up in the time of emerging rock star-chef culture, where women weren’t invited to participate,” so she didn’t get the attention she deserved, he notes.

Still, Babbo regulars and dessert fans knew and appreciated DePalma beyond her popular cookbook, Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen (W.W. Norton; 2007).

What makes her unpublished cookbook important is that it demonstrates what the chef could create beyond the constraints of restaurant desserts. Reiner points out that many of DePalma’s bestselling sweets were conceived without on-the-ground research. “She was the premier Italian pastry chef in America, and hadn’t been to Italy,” says Reiner. (DePalma didn’t make her first trip there until 2004.) “This book shows what she could really do.”

“My Sweet Italy” includes such treats as a fresh fig budino and pistachio-studded honey semifreddo. These are evocative, uncomplicated desserts that make you want to run to the kitchen and start measuring. One of the simplest recipes is Mom’s peach cake. While most of the focus is on regional cakes, tarts, and cookies, DePalma included a “Tradizione” section stocked with her most personal baking endeavors.

“Traditional recipes represent important and cherished beliefs,” DePalma wrote in the chapter heading, “contained in the form of a family favorite or local delicacy that may seem insignificant to outsiders but are rich in symbolism and meaning.”

DePalma’s cake is fully that—and a late summer blast: The tender cake practically melts in your mouth. The soft peaches bake into the batter, perfuming the top with fruitiness. DePalma added a little cornstarch to the fruit to hold onto the juices, giving the peaches an appealing, pie-like quality.

For those who were big fans of DePalma, it feels like a lovely and unexpected connection. In season, she served her saffron panna cotta with poached peaches. It was my favorite dessert in all of New York.

The following recipe is adapted from the unpublished manuscript, “My Sweet Italy,” by Gina DePalma.

Mom’s Peach Cake

Makes 6 To 8 Servings

1 ¼ Cups Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
½ TSP. Kosher Salt
½ TSP. Baking Powder
¼ T TSP. Freshly Grated Nutmeg
½ Cup Unsalted Butter, Softened
¾ Cup Plus 1 Additional Tbsp Granulated Sugar
1 Large Egg
1 Large Egg Yolk
½ TSP. Pure Vanilla Extract
Freshly Grated Zest Of 1 Small Lemon
½ Cup Whole Milk
4 Small Ripe Juicy Peaches
2 TSP. Fresh Lemon Juice
½ TSP. Cornstarch
1 TBSP Turbinado Sugar (Optional)
Vanilla Gelato Or Ice Cream, For Serving

Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter and flour a 9-inch round cake pan.

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, salt, baking powder, and nutmeg.

In a large bowl, beat the softened butter and ¾ cup of sugar together until light. Add egg and egg yolk and vanilla and lemon zest, and beat until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

Beat in the flour mixture on low speed just until incorporated, then add the milk and beat on medium speed until the batter is creamy and emulsified. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan.

Scrub the peaches under running water to remove any fuzz, then halve and pit them. Cut each peach into eight slices. Place the slices in a bowl and toss with the lemon juice, cornstarch and remaining 1 tbsp sugar. Arrange the peaches in a circular pattern on top of the cake batter, spooning any accumulated juice over the top. If desired, sprinkle with the turbinado sugar.

Bake the cake for about 40 minutes or until puffed—firm to the touch and golden and pulling away from the sides of the pan.

Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the edges and then carefully invert it onto a large plate. Set another large plate on top and invert, so it ends with the peach side up. Let cool. (Alternatively, you can serve the cooled cake from the pan.) Cut into wedges, and serve with vanilla gelato or ice cream.

Updated: 9-29-2021

Easy Eggplant Parmesan Recipe: Lighter, Crisper, Never Soggy

It’s the comfort-food classic we love, only re-engineered so that the different components cook separately. The result is both satisfying and surprising.

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A FRESH PERSPECTIVE on classic dishes has earned chef Joe Papach rave reviews at the Harvey House in Madison, Wis. Here, in his second Slow Food Fast recipe, Mr. Papach re-engineers eggplant Parmesan so that each component cooks separately. No soggy texture, no muddled flavors.

Planks of fried eggplant sit atop a sauce made with fruity Sungold tomatoes. Rather than melting mozzarella on top, Mr. Papach tears off shreds of room-temperature cheese and scatters them over the dish to soften in the residual heat from the other elements. Finished with lemon zest and torn basil, it’s the comfort food we love, only lighter and brighter.

Fried Eggplant With Sungold Tomatoes, Basil and Mozzarella

Planks of fried eggplant sit atop a sauce made with fruity Sungold tomatoes. Rather than melting mozzarella on top, tear off shreds of room-temperature cheese and scatter them over the dish to soften in the residual heat from the other elements. Finished with lemon zest and torn basil, it’s the comfort food we love, only lighter and brighter.

Total Time: 45 Minutes

Serves: 4


* 2 Italian eggplants, sliced lengthwise into ½-inch planks
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 2 tablespoons olive oil plus more to fry and finish
* 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
* ½ teaspoon chile flakes
* 1 pint Sungold tomatoes, halved
* ¼ cup dry white wine
* 3 tablespoons butter, chilled
* Sherry vinegar
* 1 cup flour
* 3 eggs, beaten
* 2 cups panko
* 1 (12-ounce) ball fresh mozzarella, at room temperature, torn into bite-size shreds
* Zest of 1 lemon
* ½ cup torn basil leaves


1. Season eggplant liberally with salt and place on a cooling rack set over a baking sheet. Let drain at 5 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels.

2. Make the tomato sauce: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium pan over medium-low heat. Add garlic and cook until translucent, about 1 minute. Season with chile flakes and salt, and increase heat to medium. Stir in tomatoes and cook until they release liquid, 3 minutes. Add wine and cook until sauce tightens, about 3 minutes more. Stir in butter and, once sauce is creamy, season with vinegar and salt to taste. Cover to keep warm.

3. Place flour, eggs and panko into three large separate bowls. Fill a large, deep pan with at least 1/2 inch of oil and set over medium-high heat.

4. Dredge each eggplant plank through flour to cover. Shake off excess and dip eggplant into eggs to completely coat. Let excess run off and then dredge eggplant through panko, pressing to make crumbs adhere evenly. Set breaded eggplant on rack.

5. Once oil is hot but not smoking, working in batches, lay breaded eggplant into oil and fry until crisp and golden brown on one side, 2-3 minutes. Control heat so oil bubbles steadily. Use tongs to carefully flip eggplant and fry until golden and crisp on reverse side and fully tender, about 2 minutes more. Transfer fried eggplant to paper-towel-lined plates to cool. Season with salt.

6. To serve, spoon warm tomato sauce into shallow bowls. Place fried eggplant on top. Scatter torn mozzarella over top. Season with salt, pepper and zest. Garnish with basil and a drizzle of oil.

Want Your Toddlers to Make Their Own Breakfast? Get Them A Working Kitchen

Grown-ups are adding functional faucets, mini-fridges and kid-friendly utensils to play kitchens, encouraging toddlers to prepare food; ‘He’s able to pour a flawless bowl of cereal now’

When Alex Kim wanted to teach his toddler how to prepare meals, he tried everything including the kitchen sink.

Mr. Kim, a 33-year-old program manager at a defense aerospace company, decided to upgrade his son’s play kitchen and installed a working faucet and drain. He also purchased a mini-fridge and stocked it with snacks and milk.

“We try to incorporate him in everything we’re doing,” Mr. Kim said.

Children’s play kitchens have been given makeovers before, dolled up to look like fancy real ones. Now some grown-ups are taking little steps further, digging out their credit cards and drills to re-work play kitchens to make them functional and encouraging their toddlers to prepare food with minimal parental interference. The goal, parents say, is to allow toddlers to see how things really work, and gain independence. It can get messy.

Warren Kim, 2 years old, had a choice for breakfast: pancakes or cereal. He chose cereal. His dad poured the cereal for him, and let little Warren pour the milk. His tiny kitchen was drenched. The bowl stayed mostly dry. The TikTok video of the incident posted by his father racked up 25 million views.

After the spill, the video shows a silence of a few seconds, and Mr. Kim, who was filming, responds, “Good job Warren, good try, OK.”

Mr. Kim acknowledged that it was Warren’s first time pouring milk and that the container was too big. In the latter half of the video, Warren is seen practicing his pouring skills with a much smaller cup of water.

“Obviously it was an epic fail but we definitely try to encourage the process,” Mr. Kim said. He’s proud that Warren got the milk himself and poured “the little bit he did into the cereal bowl.”

In January, Mr. Kim reworked a play kitchen for Warren that came with a fake backsplash that mirrors the herringbone in their adult-sized kitchen. He replaced the faucet with a working water dispenser, drilled holes to add draining, and added cutting boards to replace the tiny stove ranges, to create more toddler-level surface to prep and cut food, steps which even non-DIY savvy parents can accomplish, said Mr. Kim.

With this set up, toddlers are free to chop a banana with a butter knife, arrange cheese and crackers on a plate, or even wash their own dishes.

After months of practicing with smaller cups of liquid, 2-year-old Warren Kim has seen improvements.

“He’s able to pour a flawless bowl of cereal now,” his father said, pouring the milk in the cereal by himself.

Friends Raye Parris and India Tate each modified their children’s own play kitchen setups. Together, they started Melanin Moms Montessori, a blog designed to bring together Black parents following the Montessori educational approach of giving children more independence and choices.

“I don’t consider myself as someone who is really good at DIY,” said Ms. Parris, 28, who followed online blogs showing how to modify a play kitchen into a more functional one.

“I have a Mason jar with a spout on it and that flows right into the little sink part of the play kitchen,” said Ms. Parris, who lives in Georgia with her three-year-old son, King. “I didn’t drill holes so that the water could drain through simply because I would have lost that storage space underneath there and that’s where I keep his little utensils, trays, plates, and bowls. I do have to dump the water out when he’s done or help him dump it out but it’s not that much of a hassle or a mess for me.”

When it comes to the occasional spills or messes, Ms. Tate, a 31-year-old mother of two young children, Malachi and Roman, said cleaning up is almost always a shared task at their California home.

“For Roman in the beginning, he was like ‘Oh, I made a mess and I’m not going to clean it up,’ ” Ms. Tate said. “Eventually he caught on and was like, ‘Oh, I spilled it,’ and he would go and get his own towel and clean up to the best of his ability.”

Little Chef and Me, an online store, has seen demand for its tiny stainless-steel and beech-wood-handled kitchen utensils, each designed with a little smiley face. The utensils are meant to function as real ones.

“We’ve grown way faster than I anticipated,” said store owner Zoe Kelly, 29, a chef based in South Florida who also has competed as a finalist on Food Network’s All-Star Academy. She is mom to Raiden, who is 21 months old. He doesn’t have a working play kitchen, but helps out in their actual kitchen, she said.

Mrs. Kelly stresses parental supervision while using her products while also letting go of expectations.

“If parents can have accidents, so can kids. I will always step in 100% if my child is going to be in danger in any kind of way, that is something I’m very strong about,” Mrs. Kelly said. “Messes are temporary, memories are forever.”

Updated: 9-30-2021

The Buzzy New Restaurant Serving Better Mental Health

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Call it a new approach to comfort food: Chef Sean Brock’s upcoming restaurant isn’t just about the cuisine. It’s also about his workers—and his own—wellbeing.

The events surrounding the delayed opening of Audrey, Sean Brock’s new Nashville restaurant, include a tornado and a pandemic, resulting in what Brock believes is a collective case of post-traumatic stress disorder. “Every single one of us is walking around with PTSD right now, constantly being triggered,” Brock says.

Opening this fall, Audrey will offer two dining experiences, an upstairs tasting-menu space serving 12 to 15 courses and a downstairs kitchen cooking a five-course meal, where diners choose just their mains.

There’s a bar, a podcast studio and a cookbook library, and until recently, the space also hosted the nonprofit Patchwork, which has helped provide about 100,000 meals to Nashville’s hungry. Audrey’s culinary research and development lab uses tools like centrifuges, rotary evaporators and microwave extractors to create ingredients like a liquid essence of corn silk to flavor a dish of corn custard, pig’s-foot jelly and caviar.

The food, though highly technical, is rooted in the ideas and traditions of the area of Appalachia where Brock grew up and inspired by the restaurant’s namesake, Brock’s late maternal grandmother, Audrey Morgan. The restaurant’s 50-year-old vinegar mother was inherited from her basement in Pound, Virginia, where she preserved everything from corn to apples to elderberries.

After Brock’s father died, when Brock was 11, and the family’s coal-trucking business went bankrupt, Brock and his mother moved in with Morgan. She provided a sense of peace and shelter. Audrey aims to do that too.

Audrey can also be seen as Brock’s rigorous and corrective response to his own traumas: alcoholism, chronic stress, six painful eye surgeries and his struggles with myasthenia gravis, a rare autoimmune disease that threatened his vision and muscle control.

In 2017, Brock sought substance-abuse treatment and trauma healing during a six-week stay at The Meadows in Wickenburg, Arizona. “They pretty much made me promise I wasn’t going to be a chef anymore,” Brock says. “That was terrifying, and I certainly considered it, but I realized maybe I was meant to contribute to the restaurant world in more ways than just cooking.”

Brock, 43, has not had a drink since entering The Meadows. Though he still experiences double vision every day, he keeps his myasthenia gravis in check in part by mitigating stress. He now talks about neuroplasticity, trauma and triggers with the same knowingness he once reserved for conversations about heirloom strains of rice. Instead of giving up restaurants, Brock began formulating ways to improve them by addressing wellness and mental health.

“It was a chance for me to start over,” Brock says, acknowledging that he could have helped facilitate a healthier workplace at his previous restaurants, Husk and McCrady’s. Rehab taught Brock life-changing lessons about regulating his brain and making amends. “It helped me truly understand compassion and self-compassion,” he says, “and it gave me the fuel I needed to dig out of the shame and guilt.”

At Audrey, staff will have a wellness room with many of the tools Brock himself uses: massage, Reiki, acupuncture, cranial electrotherapy stimulation, and light and aroma therapies. “What’s so admirable about what Sean’s doing is he’s bringing a new mental health benefit to his industry and really focusing on the question, Can you keep your staff happy?” says Sean Walsh, CEO of Meadows Behavioral Health.

“Being part of Sean’s growth has been one of the better aspects of my working life,” says Sam Jett, director of operations for Brock’s restaurant group. “It’s pushed me to grow myself.”

Everybody who works at Audrey gets a copy of Tools and Ideas: How to Thrive Not Just Survive. It’s a 28-page volume Brock penned to help restaurant workers with matters of mental health and interpersonal conflict. “We spend hours on this little manual,” Brock says. “The first thing I say to people on their first day is like, ‘We’re going to have to rewire you. We’re just going to constantly be rewiring each other.’ ”

Updated: 10-1-2021

Rapper RZA Champions These Vegan Stuffed Peppers For Tailgate Season

The famed Wu Tang Clan star is helping a Black-owned Texas pizza place promote plant-based cooking.

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Amidst all the noise around the $7 billion vegan food industry, there’s one segment that doesn’t get much attention: Black-owned restaurants. Its an issue Robert Diggs takes to heart. In mid-September, the legendary Wu Tang Clan rapper and producer better known as RZA teamed up with vegan cheesemaker Violife to launch Plant Grants, a multiyear program that will award $20,000 each to five Black-owned places across the country.

“My question was, how do we help Black-owned restaurants that were struck so hard during the pandemic,” says RZA, via Zoom. “Whether they were vegan or not, we were not discriminating. You could be a rib shack. You just had to have some plant-based items to your menu.”

RZA, a vocal supporter of the vegan movement for two decades, emphasized the multitiered benefits of the award. “It helps the community economically—a restaurant can keep their doors open,” he says. “It also introduces a healthier way to eat.” There’s also a mentorship program, linking together other successful vegan businesses.

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Over 200 businesses applied to the program. Among the grantees, which include Seasoned Vegan in New York’s Harlem and Plant Power Café & Juice Bar in Chattanooga, Tenn., is Meek’s Vegan Pizza in Houston. Founder Demetrius Walker opened the spot in early June after perfecting plant-based pizza as a way to entice his son, Hunter, now 9, to give up meat: “I decided that if I can make a vegan pizza that’s delicious enough for him to enjoy, maybe he’ll give veganism a shot.”

“We get lots of college students, who are increasingly becoming vegan and don’t have a lot of options in this town,” says Walker of his decision to open in the Third Ward area, an historic Black community close to the University of Houston and Texas Southern University.

One of the bestsellers at Meeks is stuffed peppers, reflecting customer demand for something besides pies. “I looked at what was on hand: We had pizza toppings, Impossible burgers, Beyond sausage, mushrooms. My first employee, Kayla Lubecki, said, ‘You should make stuffed peppers.’”

She was right. They’re a savory snack that people will crave and happily grab, whether or no their diet includes meat. The very simple combination of plant-based burgers and sausage, mixed with the mushrooms, gives the sweet peppers a hearty, juicy heft with a savory melted-“cheese” umbrella on top.

At the restaurant, Walker gives the stuffed peppers an additional, pungent kick with a secret spicy garlic seasoning, which you can approximate at home with store-bought Cajun seasoning and garlic powder.

The stuffed peppers are a great snack for a crowd—tailgate season is back, after all—especially if you don’t know every guest’s dietary status and especially now, with bell peppers at their seasonal peak.

Walker says Meek’s has been much more successful than he anticipated, especially in a meat-focused city like Houston. “It’s not known as bastion of veganism here in the U.S. I didn’t know if I would sell a couple dozen pizzas,” he says. “I’m selling hundreds a week. I’m doing Year 3 projections already, and it’s only the fourth month [in business].”

Still, the $20,000 Plant Grants award is timely. “I’m a big fish in a small pond; it’s tough for me to meet demand. I can upgrade my small pizza oven, get orders out faster.” He’s also looking an expanding to Portland, Ore., which has been called the best pizza city in the country. “There’s room for Meek’s there,” says Walker.

The following recipe is adapted from Meek’s Vegan Pizza.

Testers Note: For the peppers, it’s helpful to use round ones that will form cups when you cut them into wedges. The recipe calls for an air fryer, although a convection toaster oven works, too. You can even hack the recipe with a conventional oven, though you’ll want to sear the plant-based meat first.

Meek’s Stuffed Bell Peppers

2 Medium Red, Yellow, And/Or Orange Bell Peppers
10 Oz Plant-Based Burger Meat
1 Spicy Plant-Based Italian Sausage Link, Sliced Or Torn Into 10 Pieces
¼ Lb Baby Portobello Mushrooms, Chopped
¼ Lb Vegan Mozzarella, Shredded
2 Tsp Cajun Seasoning, Mixed With 1 Tsp Garlic Powder And ¼ Tsp Freshly Ground Pepper
2 Tsp Vegetable Oil (See Note)
Vegan Hot Sauce, Optional

Remove the seeds and ribs from the peppers and cut each into five wedges. Mix the burger and sausage meat with the mushrooms. Mound the filling in the pepper wedges. Top with the cheese and sprinkle with the seasoning.

In an air fryer or convection toaster oven, cook the stuffed bell peppers for 10 minutes at 450F, or until the filling is heated through and the peppers are just tender. Let cool a minute, and then serve with hot sauce, if desired.

Note: If you’re using a conventional oven, preheat to 450F, preferably on a convection setting. Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet and cook the burger meat until it’s browned. Then proceed as directed with stuffing. Bake the assembled peppers in a perforated pan, if you have one, with a baking sheet set on the bottom of the oven to catch drips, for about 10 minutes.

Updated: 10-2-2021

How $30-a-Pound Micro-Broccoli Will Help Feed The World

Veggies grown in a warehouse without sun or soil will help protect our food supply from climate change and other disruptions.

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Vertical farming, a system for growing food without soil or sun that for decades has thrived mainly in sci-fi films and the International Space Station, is going mainstream.

AeroFarms is poised to be the first vertical-farming startup to be listed on the NASDAQ in the next month after it completes a merger with Spring Valley Acquisition Corp. Its products — leafy greens grown in a former steel mill in downtown Newark, New Jersey — are sold in chains in and around New York City, from Walmart to Whole Foods.

Founded in 2004, AeroFarms is rolling out its boxes of greens to more stores in the Midatlantic and New England, while expanding its product portfolio to include hundreds of varieties of greens and developing new crops including hops for breweries, berries, and cacao.

If the prospect of factory-grown veggies doesn’t excite you, it should. I’m increasingly convinced that a growing portion of the fruits and vegetables we eat — in fact, of the whole $1.3 trillion global fresh produce industry — will be grown inside high-tech greenhouses like AeroFarms’. The market is forecast to grow to $15.7 billion by 2025, from $4.4 billion in 2019.

First, the caveats: This new kind of farming requires more energy and technology compared with conventional agriculture. AeroFarms has pioneered an “aeroponic” system that grows plants in stacked metal trays, their roots dangling in midair as they’re fed a nutrient-rich mist. LED lights replace sunshine. Cameras and sensors continually gather millions of data points tracking the needs of the plants as they grow.

This kind of hyper-controlled indoor agriculture requires an expensive labor force of engineers, plant scientists and computer programmers. In fact, few of AeroFarms’s team of 200 employees have any hands-in-the-dirt agricultural experience at all.


Vertical farming also relies on urban real estate more expensive than rural farmland. And AeroFarms’ products, which include “baby watercress” and “micro broccoli,” currently sell for $2 an ounce — luxury goods that will hardly feed the world.

Yet the technology AeroFarms and other market leaders are pioneering very well might — especially in regions that have increasingly limited water and arable land. Aeroponic farms use up to 95% less water than in-field vegetable production and grow food 30% to 40% faster.

They use as little as 0.3% of the land of a field farmer, according to AeroFarms Chief Executive Officer David Rosenberg: More food can be grown inside the space of a soccer goal net than can be grown in five soccer fields outdoors. The plants are grown without herbicides, fungicides or insecticides, gains for both the economics and human health. And while artificial lights will always be more energy intensive than sunshine, AeroFarms’ LED efficiency has increased 59% in five years.

The plant data gathered by its cameras and sensors, meanwhile, have driven rapid innovations: The company has seen a 23% increase in its yield-per-square-foot of indoor growing space in the past year alone, and has sped the grow cycle for baby leafy greens from 20 to 14 days — compared to 4 to 6 weeks in the field.

Variables including light, moisture, nutrients, oxygen, CO2, and temperature can be monitored so precisely within a vertical farm that the flavors, nutrients and phenotypes of plants, in turn, can be manipulated.

A few clicks on a keyboard can make the spinach more iron-rich, the strawberries sweeter or redder, the arugula more peppery and the cucumbers crunchier. Which means AeroFarms and others in this industry are well positioned to produce not just high-flavor and high-nutrient produce, but also high-profit ingredients for pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals.

After completing the acquisition — due by Oct. 24 — Spring Valley will commit $125 million, according to its Securities and Exchange Commission S-4 filing, to help scale AeroFarms. Rosenberg said he plans to build 16 new facilities from St. Louis, Missouri to Abu Dhabi, UAE by 2026. “We’re ready for rapid growth — we’ve hit an inflection point,” he told me.

That may be so. Traditional, in-ground agriculture will continue to produce the vast majority of our staple crops in the decades ahead — that is certain. Vertical farms, though, can play a key role in producing local and perishable specialty crops. They can eliminate fuel-intensive long-distance trucking, along with food rot and waste. When located in and near cities, they have the added advantage of being protected from supply chain disruptions like the ones we’re seeing today.

High-tech agriculture is still high-risk: because there’s no soil or other barrier to protect the roots, even a small amount of bacteria or mold in the root chamber can harm the plants. And any breakdown in the system — a pump or sprinkler or timer — can kill the crop.

But the drought crisis plaguing farmers in the U.S. West today reminds us that the growing threat of weather volatility outdoors is surpassing the risks of broken machinery inside. Indeed, the fact that vertical farming holds so much promise perhaps says less about its own merits than it does about the increasing perils of conventional agriculture in the climate-change era.

Updated: 10-7-2021

The Best Seafood Stew In San Francisco: A Traveler’s Guide

Cioppino is a dish that’s been pleasing local palates for generations. Here, five restaurants around the city that both honor the tradition and add their own splash. Bib required.

THIS TIME of year, the urge for cioppino seeps in like San Francisco’s infamous fog—it begins with wisps, and then it envelops me. I grew up in the Bay Area, lived in the city in my 20s, then moved away 15 years ago. Of all San Francisco’s most iconic dishes—Boudin sourdough, Buena Vista’s Irish coffee, Mission burritos—it’s the savory fish stew that I crave the most when I’m feeling homesick.

Fishermen, many of them Italians from Genoa, are said to have created the earliest form of cioppino in San Francisco in the late 1800s—its name is derived from the word in Genoese dialect for “little soup.” It was indeed littler then—just tomatoes, white wine, fish, perhaps some chiles and garlic. Today’s cioppino offers a treasure chest of seafood, often including Dungeness crab, mussels, clams, scallops, shrimp, squid and fish. It’s invariably served with toasted bread to sop up all the broth.

Tales of cioppino’s evolution call to mind the stone soup folk story. Angel Cincotta of Alioto-Lazio Fish Company, a seafood market in Fisherman’s Wharf more than 70 years old, said that in the early days of making cioppino, “everyone added whatever fish they could to the pot….Because all the immigrants, when they got here, they all took care of each other, they all pitched in to feed everybody.”

I set out to explore the city via cioppino, which returned me to neighborhoods I hadn’t been in for ages. Along the way, in addition to collecting a lot of bibs, I realized that while San Francisco has changed immensely over the years, many of the places that offered my favorite cioppino were like portals in time. They preserve tradition by serving, as they have for decades, generous portions of unpretentious food.

The Stalwart: Tadich Grill

The city’s oldest restaurant, Tadich Grill, opened in 1849 in downtown San Francisco.

As life returns to downtown San Francisco, so too do the business people to the long wood bar at Tadich Grill, including one regular who lamented going back to the office, but at least there was more of this—gesturing to the steamed clams set before him.

Tadich Grill, originating in 1849 and the city’s oldest restaurant, is one of those nostalgic dining institutions with waiters in ties and white coats, dark wood wainscoting and booths, and old-fashioned menus with lobster Thermidor and pan-fried sand dabs. Since the pandemic, however, the menu has been pared down, though cioppino never left it. (“The protest on January 6 would be nothing compared with us not having cioppino,” my waiter told me.)

Here, it comes with crab meat liberated from its shell and sautéed with other seafood in white wine and butter, and finished with a thinner tomato broth. 240 California St.,

The Crab King: Sotto Mare

For many locals, Sotto Mare is synonymous with cioppino. It’s a classic spot in North Beach (San Francisco’s Little Italy), with a long, narrow dining room that’s often as cheerfully crowded as the walls, covered with newspaper clippings and photos of local politicians, celebrities, friends and family.

Sotto Mare’s “Best Damn Crab Cioppino,” as it’s proclaimed on the menu, arrives in a large metal soup tureen with a ladle and is packed with the most seafood of any other cioppino that I tried—half a cracked crab jutting out, large shrimp and small, sweet bay shrimp and scallops, mussels, clams and calamari, all in a chunky tomato broth suffused with the taste of the sea and christened with fresh parsley as it leaves the kitchen. It’s big enough for two. 552 Green St.,

The Light Touch: Hog Island Oyster Bar

Even without the bay views from the indoor and outdoor tables of Hog Island Oyster Co. in the Ferry Building, people would line up for its fresh oysters and some of the city’s most impeccably prepared seafood. That includes the kitchen’s “rustic seafood stew,” Hog Island’s take on the cioppino.

It features a lighter broth brimming with tomatoes and spiked with Calabrian chiles. There’s no crab in this one, but I didn’t miss it with all the other seafood, including head-on shrimp and delicately cooked squid. Plus, it gave me room to order a dozen oysters and San Francisco anchovies, dusted in semolina and fried. 1 Ferry Building 11A,

The Purist: Scoma’s

Tucked away on a small pier in Fisherman’s Wharf, Scoma’s is in view of the fishing boats returning to harbor to unload their catch, some of which finds its way into the restaurant kitchen. The low-slung building—once a coffee shop serving fishermen before it became a restaurant in 1965—belies an unfussy but elegantly old fashioned interior, with a refined cioppino to match.

Described as the “lazy man’s” cioppino on the menu, it is luxurious, with succulent crab meat and giant sweet scallops, as well as the usual mélange of seafood, all bathed in a smooth tomato soup that’s more saucelike than brothy.

Without a lot of extraneous spices, there’s a purity to Scoma’s cioppino, so while it probably looks nothing like the original stew, it’s a fitting tribute to the dish born around these docks. 1965 Al Scoma Way,

The Spicy Standout: Anchor Oyster Bar

In the Castro neighborhood, where it seems every sign and storefront carries a sexual innuendo, it’s appropriate that Anchor Oyster Bar serves the lustiest cioppino, with a uniquely spiced and bold broth redolent of anise and with plenty of garlic, chunks of sweet tomato, and a kick of heat.

It’s loaded with seafood, including large prawns and entire crab legs that necessitate a crab cracker and an extra large moist towelette when you’re done (both provided). The cioppino comes in two sizes—the small is big enough for two. In a city with an already impressive “parklet” game (the Covid-era sidewalk extensions are seemingly everywhere), Anchor’s shines, echoing the restaurant’s New England seafood shack vibe, complete with blue and white shutters and a corrugated tin roof. 579 Castro St.,

Updated: 10-8-2021

Here’s How Milk Bar Makes The Addictive Ted Lasso Biscuits

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Christina Tosi serves up a recipe for the most popular food in the streaming world.

Here we are at the Season 2 finale of Ted Lasso, the feel-good series of the pandemic.

By all accounts, the Emmy award-winning British soccer show has been an overwhelming hit. (Apple Inc. doesn’t share information about its shows; the company did say that the Season 2 premiere brought in more accounts on opening weekend than any previous launch. The show “increased its viewership by 6x over Season One,” according to the Observer.)

Among the show’s breakout stars are the biscuits, better known in the U.S. as cookies. For those who haven’t seen it yet, the biscuits are made by Jason Sudeikis’s title character and used to charm the team’s antagonistic owner Rebecca Welton, played by Hannah Waddingham.

In September, Apple released an official Ted Lasso biscuit recipe. Comprising just four ingredients—flour, butter, confectioner’s sugar, salt—the cookies hit the buttery notes but didn’t provide the compulsive adulation as seen on TV; many tasters pronounced it old-fashioned, like the show.

One of the country’s best bakers saw the opportunity to make a more compelling version of the viral sweet. Christina Tosi, founder of Milk Bar, a bakery embodying the same unabashed positive energy as the show, is a Ted Lasso fan. “When Season 1 came out, it made positivity cool again,” says Tosi. “And the stickiest part of it was the power [of the biscuits] in a tiny little pink box. It’s a show with the secret undertone of the power of baked goods.”

Tosi says she paid particular attention whenever the biscuits appeared on screen, studying them like a crime scene pathologist. “I would rewind, check what kind of pan, does he have a stand mixer, how is he cutting them,” she says.

To celebrate the season finale on Oct. 8, Tosi is introducing the Ted Lasso x Milk Bar biscuit, for free. At the Milk Bar flagships in New York and Los Angeles, 500 orders of the sweets will be available in, yes, little pink boxes. As part of a partnership with Apple TV+ and Uber Technologies Inc.’s Postmates, free delivery is available for (not including service fees or tips).

For those who will miss out on the limited offerings, the way to sample the dead-simple biscuit is to make it yourself. Tosi’s version does inspire the kind of stop-everything-else fixation portrayed on the show; they’re superior to the official version.

That’s because Tosi adds egg yolks and a few spoonfuls of brown sugar to the equation, giving her rectangular cookie a terrific, caramelized wave of flavor, along with an addictive chew that enhances the melt-in-your-mouth tenderness.

Ultimate Resource For Cooks, Chefs And The Latest Food Trends

Tosi will demo the biscuits on her weekly Instagram Live Bake Club on Oct. 11.

Following the promotion, the Lasso biscuits will not be for sale at Milk Bar stores. Tosi shies away from straightforward classics—her chocolate chip cookies include cornflakes and marshmallows. But, she says, “I am confident it will inspire something at Milk Bar. I want to take that biscuit and roll it in doughnut sugar. I think about the 50 different things I can do with it.”

Meanwhile, Postmates anticipates an increase in business because of the Ted Lasso finale. The company won’t share numbers, but it did report $12.9 billion in deliveries in the second quarter. “We often see spikes as high as 10%+ in orders on Uber Eats and Postmates during TV finales, major sporting events, and award shows,” says a spokesperson for Uber.

The following recipe is from Christina Tosi, founder of Milk Bar.

Ted Lasso x Milk Bar Biscuits

Makes 12 Lasso-Size Slices

2 Sticks (1/2 Lb) Unsalted Butter, Softened
1 ⅓ Cup Confectioner’s Sugar
3 Tbsp Light Brown Sugar
3 Large Egg Yolks
1 ¾ Cup All-Purpose Flour
½ Tsp. Kosher Salt

Heat the oven to 315F and prepare an 8-inch square baking dish with cooking spray.

In a medium bowl, mix the butter and sugars vigorously until smooth.

Stir in the egg yolks. Add the flour and salt, mix just until the dough comes together. (“The less you mix the dough, the more positive vibes your biscuits will have,” according to Tosi.) Using damp hands, press the dough in an even layer in the pan and bake for 40 to 45 minutes until a thin, golden brown layer forms on top. Let cool completely before cutting into two even columns and then six even rows. Arrange in pink boxes, if you have them.

Updated: 10-12-2021

Salad Wines: 5 Best Bottles to Pair With Your Mixed Greens

A notoriously difficult pairing, salad and wine actually can work together if you stick to a few basic rules. Our wine columnist navigated all manner of leafy meals to hit on the best possible red, white, pink and bubbly matches.

SALAD HAS NEVER BEEN very important to me. It’s rarely, if ever, the centerpiece of my meal, so I just don’t tend to think about it in terms of wine pairing.

Wine and salad have, in fact, long been considered adversaries, mostly due to the acidity of some salad dressings. And yet, as many oenophiles seem to be eating less meat and more greens, it seemed worth considering the pairing more closely. So I bought a few bottles I thought might prove suitable and tried them along with an unreasonable number of salads.

Before I began, I contacted my most salad-savvy friends, Paulette Satur and Eberhard Müller, owners of Satur Farms in Cutchogue, N.Y. Paulette and Eberhard grow lots of greens on their Long Island farm, and their produce can be found in restaurants and markets up and down the East Coast.

Sauvignon Blanc is often cited as a match with salad, thanks to its fresh, herbal, citric character. But not all will work.

Salad is often an entire meal for Eberhard and Paulette—unless they swap it out for a plate of green beans, according to Paulette. That didn’t sound like much of a dinner, let alone an easy wine pairing. But since Eberhard was a four-star chef and Paulette was a wholesale wine sales representative before they became farmers, I figured if anyone could make beans work with wine, this husband-and-wife team could.

Indeed, Paulette reported they had successfully paired a mixed-green salad drizzled with citrus dressing with a non-oaky 2018 Lenz North Fork Chardonnay, and a green bean-tomato combo with Dr L Riesling, an off-dry German white. The Chardonnay didn’t surprise me—it’s an oft-cited salad pairing—nor did the Riesling, since Eberhard, a native of Germany, pairs Riesling with just about everything.

When Eberhard laid out his approach to this particular pairing, he began with the assertion that salad is unfairly maligned as a hostile companion to wine. And he wasted no time before inserting a plug for his homeland’s star grape: “If spice and lively acidity is a major component [in a salad], reach for Rieslings.

In fact you almost never can go wrong with Kabinetts and Spatleses in pairing them with greens.” (Those are two types of Mosel Riesling, one fairly dry, one slightly sweet.) For “a garden-warmed, perfectly ripened tomato, drizzled with some olive oil and maybe a splash of Sherry or balsamic vinegar,” he prefers Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay.

Sauvignon Blanc is often cited as a good match with salad, thanks to its fresh, herbal, citric character. But since Sauvignon Blanc is produced all over the world, there are many different types and styles, and some are better suited to salads than others. Take, for example, the two Sauvignon Blancs I took to dinner at my friend Gabrielle’s house for a salad-focused dinner. (Her salads are famous among her friends.)

One was the soft textured but minerally 2020 Domaine Bailly-Reverdy Chavignol Sancerre ($24), a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley of France; the other, the zippy 2020 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($15) from New Zealand. The softer Sancerre was a brilliant companion to Gabrielle’s two mixed-green salads with chopped hearts of palm—one dressed with a mustard vinaigrette, one with a slightly sweeter walnut vinaigrette.

The acidity of the Kiwi wine, meanwhile, was made even sharper by the salad dressings, so it proved a bit of a painful match. Of the other three wines I brought—the 2019 Hirschvergnügen Grüner Veltliner ($16), the 2019 Selbach Oster Feinherb Mosel Riesling ($17), and the 2020 Antxiola Getariako Txakolina Rosé ($14)—only the rosé proved a boon companion to salad.

I was surprised, having assumed the Grüner and the Riesling would be the best partners. Grüner has long been a sommelier favorite for its compatibility with a wide range of dishes, and Riesling is equally versatile. But this particular Grüner was a bit too neutral, a bit too bland, and the fruit of the Riesling was quickly flattened by the salad with and without dressing.

But the bright, juicy, fruity Txakolina rosé softened the acidity of both dressings and went well not only with salad but with the grilled snapper Gabrielle added to our plates.

Next I ventured a few wine-and-salad pairings of my own: a creamy Caesar of mixed greens, radicchio, grated cheese and croutons, plus a basic, mixed-green salad with mustard vinaigrette (to which I subsequently added grilled salmon and, on another occasion, grilled steak).

The white wines included the 2020 Vietti Roero Arneis ($20), from Italy; the 2020 Azevedo Loureiro Alvarinho Vinho Verde ($10), from Portugal; the 2020 Pazo Señorans Albariño ($20), from Spain; and the Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé ($16), from France. Although the bright, slightly herbal Arneis played off the acidity of the green salad, it was easily overpowered by the creamy Caesar.

The Albariño paired beautifully with everything, its fruity nature melding with the acidity of the green salad while its acidity cut through the creaminess of the Caesar and the richness of the salmon. The Vinho Verde was so simple and light it proved almost invisible next to both the salads.

The two reds I chose did prove salad-suitable—the soft, herbal and slightly earthy 2020 Arnaud Lambert Clos Mazurique Brézé Saumur Rouge ($25), a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley of France, and the 2019 Prà Morandina Valpolicella ($20), from the Veneto region of Italy. The former was more complex, a bit broader in flavor—it worked, but it needed more steak and less salad to truly shine. The latter had a bit of an edge thanks to its bright fruit, a pleasingly piquant bitter note and low alcohol—a nice pairing.

After a week of near-exclusive salad-and-wine pairing, I came to a few basic conclusions about a felicitous match: Whether red, white, rosé or sparkling, the wine should be light- to medium-bodied with reasonable but not elevated acidity. It should be fruity, with fairly soft tannins and fairly low alcohol. Extra points for a wine with a sparkle or a slight fizziness.

I may (or may not) eat more salad for dinner, but I will definitely be drinking more of these salad-friendly selections. After all, they aren’t just good leafy companions but downright delicious wines.

OENOFILE / Wines That Pair Well With a Leafy Meal

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1. 2020 Pazo Señorans Albariño $20

Marked by notes of tropical fruit, this juicy, medium-bodied white wine from one of the top producers in Rías Baixas in northwestern Spain has bright acidity and exuberant fruit. It adds an extra dimension to all kinds of salads.

2. 2020 Domaine Bailly-Reverdy Chavignol Sancerre $24

Some Sauvignon Blancs are more salad-suitable than others. This beautifully balanced Sancerre from a top producer is a pretty near perfect match, with just-right subtle fruit and bright minerality.

3. 2020 Antxiola Getariako Txakolina Rosé $14

Some wines are simply more fun than others, and this light-bodied, briskly refreshing, low-alcohol rosé from the Basque region of Spain delivers uncomplicated pleasure. It slips effortlessly into its role as a companion to salad.

4. 2019 Prà Morandina Valpolicella $20

From a producer better known for its Soave, this is one of the best Valpolicellas I’ve had in a while. With soft tannins, bright-red and dark fruit, and a mineral note, it’s made in a light but far from simple style. A fine wine for salad and so much more.

5. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé $16

This pleasantly fruity non-vintage sparkling Pinot Noir rosé is the perfect foil to salads of all types thanks to a perfect balance between fruit and acidity. It will counter high-acid salad dressings and cut through creamier ones.

Updated: 10-19-2021

Secrets to Cooking Pro Pizza at Home: The Best Gear, Recipes and Tricks

Pizza-making at home is the new pandemic craze, but it can seem intimidating. Here’s the ultimate guide to get you going: from party-friendly backyard pizza ovens to insider recipes, topping tips and much more.

The Story: How Mastering Pizza Became An Obsession

IT WAS as good a reason as any to make pizza: “During the pandemic, I needed to have some sort of passion,” said Frédéric della Faille, a product designer in New York City.

He found the intervals between hydrating his dough and adding salt, the kneading and the observations of the dough’s fermentation over a few days in his refrigerator “a great meditative process.” It added structure to weeks that could otherwise seem formless. The process was, for him, as important as the product. “I didn’t even eat a tenth of the dough I made.”

Plenty got eaten, of course. Mr. della Faille set up a portable pizza oven made by Ooni on the patio of his SoHo apartment. When he has friends over to sit outside, feast on pizza and drink wine among his tomato and basil plants, he said, “It kind of feels like we’re in Italy.”Like Mr. della Faille, Jordan Commissiong, a financial adviser in Bermuda, got an Ooni during the pandemic.

“Basically the entire island tried its hand at sourdough,” he said. “So I got into it, and my breads were OK, but I really started using it for pizza dough.”

Homemade pizza is, as they say, having a moment. Aspiring pizzaiolos and pizzaiolas finally have both the tools and the time to make restaurant-grade pies in their own kitchens and backyards.

The cookbook “The Joy of Pizza,” out next month, is an ideal starting point. (See “Pizza Page by Page,” at left.) Written by Dan Richer, owner of Razza Pizza Artigianale in Jersey City, N.J., with food writer Katie Parla, it offers recipes ranging from traditional Margherita pizza to pies with more esoteric ingredients, such as the filberts that anchor the Project Hazelnut pizza.

A rubric for evaluating the quality of a pie covers 11 aspects of the dough’s fermentation and runs to 56 items in total. There are also rubrics for judging olive oil, canned tomatoes and mozzarella.

Obsessive as that sounds, consider “Modernist Pizza,” the latest several-volume-set from former Microsoft CTO Nathan Myhrvold and chef Francisco Migoya: Over the nearly four years it took to research the 1,708-page tome, its authors, their staff and contributors put in more than 200,000 hours making more than 12,000 pizzas, creating 1,016 recipes in the process.

More than a cookbook, “Modernist Pizza” examines the food from historical and scientific perspectives and can even serve as a travel guide. Its authors collectively traveled more than 100,000 miles and visited at least 250 pizzerias, which led Mr. Migoya to a controversial realization: “There is such thing as too much pizza.”

And yet, in a harrowing year and a half for the restaurant industry, the number of independent pizzerias has actually grown, according to PMQ Pizza Magazine’s 2021 Pizza Power Report. But the leap from eating to making can be daunting. “The world of pizza was—still is—full of myths and mysticism and just general bullshit,” said Mr. Myhrvold. “You know, ‘You can’t make that pizza without having the water of Naples or New York,’ or ‘You have to have that special flour.’ No you don’t.”

Like Mssrs. Migoya and Myhrvold, Deborah Cummings and her husband, Don, of Clarkston, Mich., have logged thousands of miles traveling to taste regional pizza styles. But when the pandemic kept them at home, Ms. Cummings’s pizza-making efforts kicked into high gear. She bought Breville’s Pizzaiolo oven, and dove deeply into Philadelphia chef Joe Beddia’s book “Pizza Camp” and, more recently, into Anthony Falco’s “Pizza Czar,” published in May.

Along with those books, she, like Mr. della Faille and Mr. Commissiong, found inspiration, community and amusement online. After browsing Ooni’s message boards she came away thinking that “those guys are a little intense.” She, instead spends much of her time on Facebook, “where the guys are very fixated on the dough hydration,” but good-natured all the same. “No one talks down to me.

I post pictures. I get lots of great compliments.”Despite 30 years of pizza making, cooking more frequently at home over the last six months has made a difference. “I’ve changed quite a bit,” Ms. Cummings said. “I’m not so worried about following that recipe.”


The Tech: Pizza Ovens To Cook Restaurant-Quality Pizza At Home

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MIKE RILEY FIRST fired up his Gozney Roccbox pizza oven last year at an outdoor gathering for his kids and grandchildren. Odd thing: They were more excited about loading their pies into the wood-fired oven and watching them bake than about eating them.

“People were oohing and ahhing, saying ‘this is so simple but so much fun,’” said the Bristol, Va., financial professional. “It’s well designed and easy to operate…and lets us be in charge of making one of the iconic dishes in America [at home].”

Mr. Riley is part of a growing crowd of home cooks experimenting with specialty pizza ovens. “The pandemic has given a boost to [the home pizza-making] trend that was growing over the past five years,” said Antonio Pace, president of the True Neapolitan Pizza Association in Italy, which certifies pizzerias as authentically Naples-style. According to pizza oven maker Ooni, online searches for “outdoor pizza oven” clocked in at 253,000 in 2019. In 2020, the number topped 595,000.

To see if the new ovens could yield pies as good as pro-made faves, we fashioned classic margherita versions and started cooking.

The Chef’s Oven: Ooni Karu 16 Multi-Fuel Pizza Oven

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Claim To Fame: This is the first and only home oven endorsed by the nonprofit True Neapolitan Pizza Association in Italy, the international authority. You can variously fuel it with charcoal, wood or gas (a burner is sold separately for $100).

Watch the flames do their work through a clear, hinged door and wait for the temperature on the mounted digital thermometer to reach a chef-recommended 950 degrees. The oven is expansive enough to hold extra large pies of up to 16 inches, and can also be used to roast meat, sear vegetables and even bake fresh bread.

Test Results: As advertised, this oven took less than 20 minutes to heat up, cooking our pizza in about a minute with a tender, char-blistered thin crust and appealingly molten toppings. “One of the most important elements of true Neapolitan pizza is the cooking, which needs to be very fast and at high temperature,” Mr. Pace said.

Best For: Purists. If you’re obsessed with creating an authentic Neapolitan pie at home, this handsome, multifunctional unit can safely be considered the gold standard. $799 (available for preorder with delivery in 4-6 weeks),

The Grill Add On: KettlePizza Pizza Oven Kit


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Claim To Fame: Affordable and portable, this kit transforms a standard circular charcoal grill into a proper pizza oven.

Test Results: After we placed the stainless steel attachment on top of our grill grate, it took less than 10 minutes for the built-in thermometer to hit the recommended 600 degrees. Once our pie cooked for four minutes—after two, we rotated it 180-degrees using tongs and a heat-resistant glove to ensure even cooking—it rivaled a fancy pizzeria’s. (That said, some users report that 500 degrees is the ideal temperature for ideally melty toppings and a crisp crust.)

Best For: Nomads. At just 7 pounds, this super portable attachment lets you achieve a mouthwatering pie wherever you can find a circular grill. From $139,

The Backyard Warrior: Gozney Roccbox


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Claim To Fame: Developed with the exacting standards of restaurant chefs in mind, this oven heats up to a blistering 950 degrees. Made for the outdoors, it works with propane or wood fuel, has a silicone coating that keeps the exterior cool, and sturdy, foldable legs for compact storage.

Test Results: We used the wood-burning attachment, fueling it for 20 minutes with a few sticks of the brand’s kiln-dried hardwood ($29 per box). Because this oven heats from the back with a rolling flame, it’s necessary to rotate the pizza for even cooking. This requires a little finesse—which the streamlined Roccbox turning peel ($65) makes easier—yielding a gorgeous, leopard-spotted crust and oozy toppings.

Best For: Those who want options. Don’t feel like sourcing wood? Hook up propane instead. From $499,

The Petite Pie Maker: Breville Pizzaiolo


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Claim To Fame: About the size of a countertop toaster oven, the Pizzaiolo uses three types of heat (convective, conductive, and radiant) to mimic an old-fashioned brick oven. Dial-operated heat settings let you precisely cook your favorites, from New York-style to thin and frozen.

Test Results: This sleek silver unit was a breeze to set up: All we had to do was plug it in. After preheating for 15 minutes on the wood-fired setting, our dough came out crisp and char-spotted in all the right places on the outside and chewy on the inside with perfectly melted toppings. “In terms of the crust, I can achieve a pretty similar result [as at my restaurant] because I can achieve similar temperatures,” said Luca Varuni, who owns a Neapolitan-style pizzeria in Atlanta and also uses the oven to make steak. (Really.)

Best For: Efficiency-loving city dwellers with a dearth of counter space. $1,000,


The Workout Machine: Cru Oven Model 30

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Claim To fame: Made in Portugal, this portable, stainless-steel outdoor oven weighs just 33 pounds but packs a punch with a vertical vent to funnel smoke away and a removable door to trap heat, fueled by your choice of wood or charcoal.

Test Results: The absence of a thermometer left us guessing when it was hot enough, but after 20 minutes of watching the wood-fueled flames fill the oven cavity, we used the included rake to push the embers to the back and placed the pizza on the refractory brick cooking base. Our 12-inch pizza stuck a bit, but a slightly smaller pie was easier to manage, and yielded a beautifully blistered crust.

Best For: Aspiring experts. Get comfortable using the ember rake without breaking a sweat, and this shiny oven could become a favorite piece of gear. $450,

The Cookbooks: Ready To Truly Master Pizza? Let These Chefs Guide You


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For Gonzo Pizzaiolos: Pizza Czar: Recipes and Know-How From a World-Traveling Pizza Chef

After a stint at the influential Brooklyn restaurant Roberta’s, Anthony Falco struck out on his own to help open pizzerias from São Paulo to Tokyo. He bills himself as an International Pizza Consultant, a title only slightly less grandiose than the one on the cover of his book. Its tone is loose and conversational. The more outré recipes—like the Buttercrust, a Pizza Hut homage, or the Brazilian Mashed Potato Pizza—set it apart. $35, Abrams Books

For Aspiring Artisans: The Joy of Pizza: Everything You Need to Know

There are no shortcuts when it comes to developing the kind of discernment Dan Richer brings to his pizzas. Co-authored with Katie Parla and out Nov. 9, his book provides a survey course in evaluating ingredients. QR codes throughout link to videos demonstrating how to stretch dough and other techniques—a useful addition to already thorough instruction. Recipes come in variations for standard home ovens and high-temperature models. $35,

For Pizza Geeks: Modernist Pizza

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Trying to be all things to all people is usually a recipe for failure. But at 1,708 pages, this three-volume set from Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya manages to be encyclopedia, guidebook, science textbook and cookbook. Nerding out with charts on flour particle size and explanations of the Effect of Sauce Reflectivity on Pizza is fascinating fun for both the professional pizza maker and the science-minded eater. The survey of global pizzerias will make you want to pack your passport and your stretchy pants. $425, The Cooking Lab

The Toppings: Pizzaiolos Share Their Favorite Combinations

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Giovanni Lanzo

Luigi’s Pizza, Brooklyn

+ Olive Oil

+ Cherry Peppers

+ Scallions

+ Sausage

+ Garlic

“My father used to grow scallions in the yard. Chop them up, sauté them in some garlic and oil with the sausage. And fresh cherry peppers on pizza? The smell and the taste is ridiculous.”

John Hall


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Post Office Pies, Birmingham, Ala.

+ Spinach

+ Fried Egg

+ Mornay Sauce

+ Sausage

+ Bacon

“The creamy mornay with the egg makes it feel like a perfect mack-daddy bacon, egg and cheese sandwich. It’s such a stoner pizza.”

Sarah Minnick


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Lovely’s Fifty Fifty, Portland, Ore.

+ Grapes

+ Sausage

+ Aged Mozzarella

+ Reggiano Cheese

+ Lacinato Kale

“It’s like that classic ‘pine and swine’ combination—sweet and salty and savory. Find a variety where the grapes are smaller.”

Ann Kim

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Pizzeria Lola, Minneapolis

+ Scallions

+ Tomato Sauce

+ Kimchi

+ Korean Sausage

+ Serrano Pepper

“Cooking kimchi brings out the sweetness of the cabbage, tones down the funkiness and tempers the heat of Korean chile flake.”


The Recipes: From Foolproof Dough to Inspired Garnishes

Dan Richer’s ‘Everyday Dough’


This recipe makes enough dough for seven (12-inch) pizzas. It also will work well for pan pizzas, English muffins or even ciabatta bread if there isn’t a pizza party in your future. The amounts here are given the way bakers tend to prefer: by weight, in grams, so it can easily be scaled up or down. Find videos demonstrating the different steps of this recipe at

Total Time: 3 days

Serves: Seven 12-Inch Pizzas


* 1000 Grams All-Purpose Flour, Such As King Arthur Unbleached
* Extra Flour For Dusting A Work Surface
* 760 Grams Room-Temperature Water
* 20 Grams Fine Sea Salt
* 3 Grams Instant Yeast (Just Under Half Of A Typical Packet)
* Extra Virgin Olive Oil For Oiling Storage Containers


1. Mix flour and yeast together in a large bowl. Add water and mix with your fingertips or a spoon until no dry bits remain. Cover bowl with a clean kitchen towel and set aside for at least 20 minutes and up to an hour to let flour hydrate.

2. Sprinkle salt over dough and incorporate by squeezing dough with your hands. (This is called the scissor pinch method.)

3. Knead dough using the Rubaud method (see until it comes together and tightens up, 5-7 minutes. To do this, hold bowl steady with your non-dominant hand and scoop your other hand under the far end of dough, lift slightly and drop. Turn bowl slightly every 4-5 scoops.

4. Transfer dough to a clean bowl lightly oiled with olive oil. Bowl should be large enough for dough to double in volume. Cover bowl with a clean towel or plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes.

5. Place a small bowl of cold water next to the bowl with the dough. You’ll want to dip your hands in the water periodically during the next step to keep the dough from sticking to them.

6. Starting at the 12 o’clock position, pull the quadrant of dough upward gently 6-12 inches (as much as the dough allows without tearing), then fold it on top of itself. Rotate bowl 180 degrees and repeat, then 90 degrees, then 180 degrees. (You’re folding from 12 o’clock, then 6 o’clock, then 3 o’clock, then 9 o’clock.) The dough will tighten up and get stronger during this series of stretches and folds. Set aside, covered with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel, at room temperature for another 30 minutes.

7. Repeat stretching each 30 minutes for the next 90 minutes. After the final stretch, you should be able to “pull a window,” stretching a small portion of dough to the point of light being able to pass through, without it tearing. The dough should have expanded by about 20%. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

8. The next morning (or at least 12 hours later), stretch and fold dough as explained in step 6. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and return it to the refrigerator for another 12 hours.

9. Gently turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. If you are making pizzas, cut dough using a knife or a dough scraper into 7 (250-gram) pieces.

10. Working with one piece of dough at a time, take 4 corners and pull and fold them one at a time into center of ball and gently press to attach. Do not flatten. Repeat with remaining 4 corners. Dough will tighten up and take on a round shape. Gently flip dough, seam-side down. Repeat process with remaining dough pieces.

11. Place each ball into individual, very lightly oiled plastic pint deli containers large enough to allow each ball to double in volume. You can also place balls in a lightly floured dough tray or on a baking sheet, dust surface with flour and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight (or for at least 12 hours).

Project Hazelnut Pizza

This recipe is designed to work in a standard kitchen oven—no special equipment required beyond a Baking Steel or pizza stone and a scale. Find videos demonstrating the different steps of shaping the dough at

Total Time: 15 Minutes

Makes: 1 (12-Inch) Pizza


* 250 Gram (Approximately 9-Ounce) Ball Of Pizza Dough (See Recipe Below), At Room Temperature
* 4 Ounces Fresh Mozzarella, Torn Into 1-Inch Pieces
* ¼ Cup Hazelnuts
* ¼ Cup Ricotta
* A Pinch Of Coarse Sea Salt
* Rice Flour For Dusting Peel
* All-Purpose Flour For Dusting Work Surface
* Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
* 1 Teaspoon Honey


1. With a Baking Steel or pizza stone about 6 inches from the top of the oven, preheat oven to 500 or 550 degrees (the hottest it will go) for at least 1 hour. 15 minutes before you put pizza in, set broiler to high.

2. 30 minutes before making pizza, cover hazelnuts with hot water.

3. Sprinkle peel with rice flour. Keep close at hand.

4. Stretch the dough: Flour top of dough ball. If it is in a dough tray or resting on a half sheet, use a dough scraper to scoop it up, with your non-dominant hand resting gently on top of the floured dough ball. Invert it and gently land it on a generously floured surface. If it is in a container, turn dough out onto a generously floured surface.

5. Use extremely gentle movements with flat fingertips spread to apply pressure on dough at 10 and 2 o’clock. Lift your hands and reposition on dough, closer to you. Move from top of dough toward you, pressing downward and outward. Leave an inch along the rim that you don’t touch at all.

6. Flip dough over. Stretch dough to a diameter of 10-11 inches. You can do this by resting one hand lightly on the center of the dough, and with the other, stretching the dough 2-3 inches at intervals like the hours on a clock. (You can see videos of this and other methods at

7. Gently transfer dough to well-floured peel and stretch until it is 12 inches in diameter.

8. Distribute mozzarella and ricotta evenly on pizza, up to the 1-inch rim. Drain hazelnuts and add to pizza. Sprinkle with salt and drizzle with olive oil.

9. Switch your oven from broil back to bake, at its hottest temperature. Give your peel a gentle shake to make sure pizza is not sticking.

10. Open oven door. Touch leading edge of peel to Baking Steel or pizza stone, about 1 inch from back edge, with peel at a slight incline. Sharply withdraw peel so pizza is released onto the cooking surface, and close oven door. Pizza will need 6-7 minutes to cook. At the halfway mark, open door and check the pizza for dark spots. Spin the pizza 180 degrees to help it bake evenly.

11. When pizza is done, use peel to remove it to a wire rack and drizzle with honey. Serve immediately.


Updated: 10-26-2021
Beyond Cookbook, Black Food Bears Witness To Vital Culinary History

More than just soul food.

I thought I knew Black food—collard greens with ham hocks, cornbread, okra, yams, chitterlings, biscuits. These were staples at family gatherings, big and small, when I was growing up. But sometimes you don’t know what you don’t know. Reading Black Food: Stories, Art, and Recipes From Across the African Diaspora, I discovered the genesis of my food culture, which, like blues music, finds its roots in African tradition, migration, and, yes, suffering.

It’s more than a recipe book. In the introduction, Bryant Terry, a James Beard Award-winning cook and chef-in-residence at the Museum of the African Diaspora in San Francisco, calls it a “communal shrine” to food culture that’s arisen from the Black experience. There are poems, playlists, and essays that bring together insights from around the globe.

In one, upstate New York farm director Leah Penniman explains how West African women hid seeds—for black-eyed peas, rice, melon—by braiding them into their hair before being forced onto trans-Atlantic slave ships. In another, British-Nigerian novelist Sarah Ladipo Manyika uses jollof, a one-pot rice dish, as a starting point for a meditation on writer Toni Morrison.

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The pieces often reference the solace that food, community, and solidarity have offered amid the Covid-19 pandemic. They conjure up the realities of our struggle throughout history—right into the present day, including the trauma of George Floyd’s murder in 2020, which raised global consciousness about Black people.

The book covers the spectrum of equality issues, including reflections from and about Black women, as well as the LGBTQ community. Self-care and wellness are given equal time. An elaborate “healing rose bath soak and vibrational okra bath,” for instance, uses the vegetable for a spiritual cleanse.

As a former vegan and current pescatarian, I no longer eat ham hocks or chitterlings, which are made from hog intestines, and I never really considered their cultural origins. But as Cornell professor Tao Leigh Goffe puts it, soul food is “adapted from high-calorie fuel rationed to enslaved people to eat in order to perform backbreaking labor.” It’s something I knew intuitively but hadn’t consciously connected to slavery’s legacy.

Of course, there are recipes, too. Some focus on African-inspired foods such as cassava, sweet potato leaves, or mullah, a stewlike gravy typical of Sudan. Others combine Southern American staples with modern adaptations. Take biscuits: The prologue features an image of Black hands priming dough to be cut into little discs and baked into fluffy, crisp rounds.

It’s followed on the next page by a vegan sweet-potato-coconut version by Erika Council, whose grandmother, the granddaughter of an enslaved person, founded Mama Dip’s Kitchen in 1977. Adaptations like this suggest how to maintain tradition while still suiting modern tastes.

One of the more thought-provoking recipes, the Late Fall Shoebox Lunch, features an eight-page spread of a typical meal, including buttermilk fried chicken, cinnamon roll pound cake, and inferno kale chips, placed in empty shoeboxes. These meals were prepared by Black women and distributed to Black travelers shut out of White establishments during the Jim Crow era.

Some of the stories get very personal. In one, chef and anthropologist Njathi Kabui prepares millet with his father, who’s traveled from Kenya to watch him graduate in Memphis. Back home, his father not only lost a restaurant but also spent years in a British gulag for trying to liberate the country. They end up spending six weeks together as Kabui learns about manhood, family history, and fighting for justice. “Food was the common thread,” he writes, “that tied those three pillars together.”


Cheese Without Cows Via Precision Fermentation

An emerging technology promises vegan cheese as gooey and pungent as the real thing.

A decade ago, Jaap Korteweg founded a company called the Vegetarian Butcher, which made faux meat close enough to the real thing to be featured on Burger King’s menu. But for anyone wanting a cheeseburger, Korteweg couldn’t find an acceptable substitute for the other half of the recipe.

So last year the Dutch entrepreneur plowed the proceeds from selling the company to Unilever Plc into another venture, Those Vegan Cowboys, aiming to concoct dairy products sans cows. On the way to a plant-based diet, “cheese was the last thing that disappeared from my plate,” Korteweg says. “There are no good vegan cheeses.”

Most of today’s cheese substitutes are based on soy, cashew, or other foods, and they generally lack the real thing’s rich aromatics, luxurious texture, and gooey quality when melted. Nut- and grain-based milk substitutes are getting better every year, but they don’t have caseins, which account for 80% of the proteins in dairy milk and give cheese its texture.

Those Vegan Cowboys is one of dozens of startups seeking to create caseins with precision fermentation, a technology long used to make synthetic insulin. That, these companies say, will soon enable them to produce cheeses that are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing, without the environmental and animal welfare problems.

The process combines fermentation—which humans have been doing for thousands of years to make everything from beer and wine to kimchi and sauerkraut—with gene-splicing techniques developed in recent decades.

Technicians modify fungus or yeast by inserting a digital copy of cow DNA. This substance is put into steel tanks, where it reacts with organic materials to produce caseins, which are mixed with fats to produce a milk-like liquid that’s the starting material for cheese.

“The cow is the processor between grass and cheese,” Korteweg says. “So the fungi are the cow in our line.”

Investors are betting alternative cheese will be the next big thing as growth in demand for milk substitutes starts to slow. Blue Horizon, a venture capital company in Zurich focused on making food more sustainable, predicts vegan cheese consumption will increase more than fivefold by 2025.

About $1.4 billion has been invested globally in dairy substitute startups this year, up 70% from 2020, according to researcher Dealroom.

And investment in companies using precision fermentation doubled last year from 2019, to almost $600 million, the Good Food Institute reports. “What you’re trying to do is move from a product that may initially just appeal to vegetarians or vegans and bring it more mainstream,” says Mark Lynch, a partner at Oghma Partners, a corporate finance advisory company in London.

Although it may be possible to create a substitute milk that’s indistinguishable from the real thing using precision fermentation, the increasing quality of beverages made from oats, soy, almonds, or rice has spurred newcomers to focus on higher-margin dairy products.

Formo, a startup in Berlin, has gotten $50 million in funding to develop its mozzarella and ricotta offerings and plans to add mature and ripened cheeses such as cheddar and Gruyère. Starbucks Corp. has tested ice cream from Perfect Day Inc. And Nobell, a startup in San Francisco backed by Bill Gates, genetically modifies soybean plants to make dairy proteins instead of soy proteins.

“If we create products that compete on taste and on price and eventually are cheaper than buying it from an animal source, people are going to make more of these choices,” says Nobell founder Magi Richani.

Nobell expects to introduce its first products in 2023, and Perfect Day plans to add cream cheese in the coming months, but it will likely be years before the technology is truly competitive with traditional cheeses.

And in Europe, regulators may be slower to approve such foods over concerns about the genetically modified cells the method requires—though the modifications are needed only to get the process going, and there will be no such cells in the final products.

In the meantime, companies are working on less complicated alternatives. In California, Miyoko’s Creamery recently introduced a cashew-based vegan mozzarella for pizza. Sweden’s Stockeld Dreamery makes a feta substitute from fermented peas and fava beans.

And Motif FoodWorks in Boston is developing a corn-based cheese while it works on precision fermentation. “You can actually get a plant-based cheese to melt and stretch and bubble and have the gooey texture consumers expect,” says Mike Leonard, Motif’s chief technology officer.

One question is what to call the stuff made using precision fermentation, with some suggesting “lab-grown cheese” and others leaning toward “cultured” or “cultivated.” Dairy groups in various countries have objected to soy- and oat-milk producers labeling their products “milk,” so they’d probably have a similar problem with cheeses made with precision fermentation.

And because a copy of cows’ milk DNA is used to get the ball rolling, some vegans may reject the products. “These companies are potentially using the cow DNA,” says Chantelle Adkins of the U.K. Vegan Society. “We would have to consider where that came from.”

Korteweg, too, is hedging his bets with a plant-based offering—a spread he makes together with the producer of Old Amsterdam cheese—to keep the company going until his precision fermentation work starts to pay off.

He says he’s in frequent talks with companies around the world and that, as a self-professed cheese lover, he’s eager to sample vegan versions of varieties from asiago to zwitser. “If you have the identical casein, you can make all kinds of cheese,” he says. “It’s our goal to copy them all.”

BOTTOM LINE – With sales of vegan cheese substitutes on track to increase more than fivefold by 2025, investment in precision fermentation startups doubled last year, to almost $600 million.

Smart Air Fryers To Boost Your Cooking Game

These handy appliances make it easy to create healthy meals without sacrificing taste.

The pandemic has turned many into accidental chefs.

With so many of us still cooking at home instead of dining out, we’re continually having to brush up on culinary techniques. An air fryer offers one of the easiest kitchen shortcuts for preparing a huge range of foods. The appliance also brings a bonus of healthful cooking.

As the name implies, an air fryer uses fast-circulating hot air instead of oil to cook the outside of food and (hopefully) leave the inside moist and juicy. Luckily, a new generation of air fryers is wifi-enabled, which means you can tap a recipe on your phone, send it to the cooker, say something like “Alexa, get cooking,” and watch your meat, fish, fries, or even cake cook to perfection.

Here Are Our Top Picks For Smart Air Fryers On The Market:

Proscenic T21 Air Fryer
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Sleek and versatile, the T21 works at the touch of a button on its well-designed control panel— or with a tap of your phone. Proscenic’s app lets you control and adjust the air fryer from anywhere. A recipe library lets you customize your own fryer favorites, and remembers those time and temperature settings for next time.

Create a schedule on the app, and the T21 will start to cook at the appointed time, up to 12 hours ahead. And if your hands are occupied with other meal-prep tasks, you can control and schedule cooking with Alexa voice (the skill name on Alexa is “Proscenic Air Fryer”). The T21 also comes with eight preset menus–Fries, Cake, and Bacon among them– to do your culinary bidding.

The Proscenic T21 Air Fryer is available for $129.99


Gourmia GRA2800

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Gourmia’s high-end fryer is also energy-efficient; it’s halogen-powered, which generates more heat using half the power of conventional ovens. This little appliance tops out at a potent 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Using Gourmia’s app, it’s also Wi-Fi-enabled (“Phone not included,” Gourmia’s site helpfully notes).

More than 20 settings cover your cooking French fries, kebabs, rotisserie chicken, pizza, cake, wings, steak and even popcorn, sans oil. The GRA2800 costs a bit more, but comes with a thoughtful accessory kit, including fry basket, steak/fish cage, kebab rack and even a cookbook. Bonus: The fryer’s clear lid and internal light allow for easy monitoring.

The Gourmia GRA2800 is available for $279.99


Kyvol Epichef AF600


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It’s not just Wi-Fi features that make the AF600 sexy. An attractive kitchen addition in black and gray, the fryer provides a sleek control panel and a handy see-through viewing window. With the Kyvol app, you can remotely customize the time and temperature during your cooking with smart functions like original recipes, cooking time delay, and a real-time cooking history.

You’ll also find more than a hundred pre-programmed recipes— good for those nights when you don’t want to think too much about how to make dinner happen. The AF600 also boasts a larger capacity than some fryers; its 6-quart space means you won’t always have to break food into pieces to get it cooking.

The Kyvol Epichef AF600 is available for $129.99.


Cosori VeSync Pro II Smart Air Fryer


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“Alexa, time to fry!” Cook hands-free by connecting this smart-looking black-on-black fryer to Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant. With remote control options through VeSync’s app, you can monitor meals without staying chained to the kitchen.

More than 100 in-app recipes, all with simple, step-by-step instructions, make cooking with Cosori (almost) idiot-proof. Customize and save your own presets to keep repeating your most memorable meals. The Pro II reaches a maximum temperature of 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

The Cosori VeSync Pro Smart Air Fryer is available for $149.99.


Updated: 10-29-2021

A Julia Child Pumpkin Pie Recipe To Delight The TikTok Crowd

A new New York Times cookbook reintroduces the world to a legendary twist on a holiday classic.

Pumpkin pie always sweeps into the holiday season as a leading contender for top dessert.

What’s surprising is that its fan base goes beyond the old-fashioned crowd. On TikTok, pumpkin-based classics dominate the rankings, making up 50% of the site’s 10 most popular food and drink trends. The favorite hashtag, #pumpkinpie, has garnered more than 140 million views.

Favored activities among TikTok users include using molds to cut miniature pumpkin pies out of larger ones, and crafting pumpkin pie pancakes.

Which makes this a good time to reintroduce the world to a nontraditional pumpkin pie recipe from a cooking legend. It’s one of the dishes in The Essential New York Times Cookbook: The Recipes of Record, 10th Anniversary Edition, by Amanda Hesser (W.W. Norton; $55). The book has more than 1,000 recipes packed into its pages; Hesser, a co-founder of the seminal cooking site Food52, says she has tried every one.

The new edition includes 120 new recipes that highlight the best and most popular ones since the launch of the New York Times cooking app, including Melissa Clark’s simple roast turkey and cheesy Hasselback potatoes from J. Kenji Lopez-Alt.

Over the past decade, says Hesser, the Times has worked hard to include “a much more exciting and inspiring mix of recipes—including everything from Tibetan dumplings to jollof rice to bulgogi.”

In the pies and tarts section, readers will find one particular recipe that stretches back further than many others: It’s one that Julia Child published in 1982 in Parade magazine. In it, she introduced the public to a pumpkin pie that’s lightened up by folding a quickly made meringue into the custard filling.

“I love how delicate and light this pumpkin pie is, which to me is a much better way to punctuate a traditionally heavy holiday meal,” says Hesser.

That’s why Hesser included the recipe in the book: “It solves the problem that many pumpkin pies suffer from: density.” She adds: “It’s a fairly classic pumpkin pie recipe with a few twists—like folding whipped egg whites into the filling—that make the filling more cloudlike.” (You can watch Hesser’s entertaining pie-making demo, in which she calls the filling “diaphanous.”)

This pumpkin dessert is a welcome alternative to the classic pies you’re overwhelmed with at the holidays. It’s easy to make with a big payoff in flavor, from the heavy hit of spices and the warm, sweet molasses; the spoonfuls of bourbon you can add if you want to further animate the pie (and the company).

As Hesser promises, the whipped egg whites lighten up the filling enough that you should feel free to add a few spoonfuls of whipped cream to finish.

In short, it’s a dessert that you can imagine would delight Julia Child. If only we could see her make it on TikTok.

The following recipe is adapted from The Essential New York Times Cookbook: The Recipes of Record, from the New York Times Co. and Amanda Hesser.

Tester’s note: The texture of pumpkin purée differs according to brand. You might need to add a little more milk to denser purées. Although this pie can be served warm or at room temperature, it’s at its best—in texture and flavor—if you chill it first.

Julia Child’s Aunt Helen’s Fluffy Pumpkin Pie

Serves 10

One 15-Ounce Can Pumpkin Puree
1/2 Cup Plus 1 Tbsp. Granulated Sugar
1/2 Cup Light Brown Sugar
Kosher Salt
1 1/2 TBSP Molasses
1 1/2 TBSP Bourbon Or Dark Rum (Optional)
1/2 TBSP Ground Cinnamon
½ TBSP Ground Ginger
1/8 TSP Freshly Grated Nutmeg
1/8 TSP Ground Cloves
2 Large Eggs, Separated
½ Cup Heavy Cream
1/4 Cup Milk, Plus More If Needed
1 Unbaked 9-Inch Pie Crust
Whipped Cream, For Serving (Optional)

Preheat the oven to 450F. Using a mixer or blender—or a wooden spoon and a large bowl—blend the pumpkin, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, the brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, the molasses, bourbon (if using), cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, egg yolks, cream, and milk, until smooth. If the mixture is stiff, add a tablespoon or two of milk.

Whip the egg whites until foaming in a large bowl. Whip in a pinch of salt, then gradually whip in the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar until shiny white peaks form. Beat one-quarter of the whites thoroughly into the pumpkin mixture; gently fold in the rest.

Immediately ladle the filling into the pie shell until it is just below the rim of the pan; discard any leftover filling. Bake in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, just until the rims of the crusts begin to turn gold.

Reduce the heat to 375F and bake for an additional 25 to 30 minutes, until a tester inserted into the filling 2 inches from the rim comes out clean. (The center should still be a bit wet; the pie will continue to cook as it cools.) If the rim of the crust starts to get too brown, cover the edges with foil.

Immediately turn the oven off, prop the door ajar (stick in a wooden spoon to hold it open, if necessary), and let the pies sit for a further 20 to 30 minutes as the oven cools; this will prevent the filling from turning watery. Serve the pies warm—or let cool—cover tightly, and refrigerate for up to two days. Serve with whipped cream if desired.

Updated: 10-30-2021

Make Your Kitchen More Efficient: A Realistic Guide To Reducing Food Waste

With very little gadgetry and a bit of strategy, you can cook, serve and store food far more wisely and sustainably. Here’s how one working mother pulls it off in her busy household. Plus: 6 low-key low-waste strategies.

THIS SUMMER, around the time wildfires began ravaging Lake Tahoe and Hurricane Ida turned Queens into a tide pool, I started composting. I wish I could say that, in the face of climate catastrophe, an urgent sense of moral obligation overcame me. Really, though, it was taking out the trash one stiflingly hot Monday evening that pushed me over the edge.

As I grappled with a collection of Hefty bags weighted down with our half-eaten breakfasts, empty yogurt squeezy pouches, forgotten leftovers and overripe bananas, one bag sprung a leak, depositing a rivulet of fetid liquid onto my sandaled foot. It was the coup de grâce after a long period of deepening disgust at our household garbage situation.

At one time I had been a faithful eater of leftovers, a thrifty cook, a staunch ignorer of expiration dates. But then came three growing boys—plus two working parents, just trying to get to the other side of a global pandemic—and all the careful shopping and cooking and cajoling of green beans into little mouths took a back seat.

For a brief period, New York City had collected our food scraps for compost, but that service stopped in 2020, and it was unclear when, if ever, it would be restored in my neighborhood. But what, I now asked myself, was stopping me from doing it myself? I put in a call to Paul Greenberg, whose recent book “The Climate Diet” offers tactical, incremental strategies for reducing one’s carbon footprint. I knew he was an avid urban gardener and thought he might be able to point me toward a good composting solution.

Mr. Greenberg assured me that curbing kitchen waste would be a potent way to reduce my family’s environmental impact. A third of all the food produced in the U.S. ends up in the trash. As that food decomposes, it gives off methane, a greenhouse gas that is, by some estimates, 86 times more potent at driving global warming than carbon dioxide. Wasted food accounts for about 8% of all greenhouse gas emissions, and nearly half of it occurs in the home.

Mr. Greenberg didn’t have a fancy system to recommend for composting. He repurposed a few old garbage pails for the job. Moreover, the real secret, he counseled, is keeping food out of the composter in the first place.

Don’t buy food you’re not going to eat. Be vigilant about leftovers. Don’t cook in such a way that large portions of your raw materials end up unused. “When you buy an ingredient, the whole thing is, you know, food most of the time,” Mr. Greenberg said.

He turns carrot peelings and mushroom stems and the like into vegetable stock, then grinds up the tailings and mixes them into fish cakes. Soured milk leavens pancakes and adds extra tang to mac ’n’ cheese. Once, Mr. Greenberg turned a year’s worth of his son’s sandwich crusts into Thanksgiving stuffing.

I’ll admit I was not yet in a place to contemplate upcycling old sandwich crusts and vegetable peels. Composting, however, I felt I could handle. We have a small backyard in a dense urban area. I knew we needed a system that stood no chance of attracting rats, raccoons or other pests that would make us unpopular neighbors. Mr. Greenberg’s pails were out of the question, as were conventional open bins.

I landed on a compost tumbler made by the Swedish company Jora: a sealed drum that sits on a metal stand. Since the drum is insulated, it can reach temperatures high enough to break down practically anything my kitchen produces, including meat, dairy and fish. Spinning it aerates the contents so you don’t have to get in there with a shovel.

I spent a few weeks learning the ropes, depositing food scraps and figuring out how to properly balance them with “browns”—carbon-rich material such as fallen leaves and shredded newspaper that keep the mixture from turning into something like the sludge inside my trash bags.

Once I got in the compost groove, a funny thing happened: I started making that veggie stock after all. Confronting our food waste up close made me think a lot harder before adding to it. It seemed crazy to fill the scraps bin with perfectly good kale stems, so those went into a Ziploc bag in the freezer for stock.

When berries, pears and bananas got too soft to eat whole, I froze them for smoothies. Cooked foods and meat and dairy are hard on a compost heap—too much of them can turn into a stinky mess—so those leftovers became my first priority for weekday lunches. Composting was, for me, what psychologists call a keystone habit: one simple change that shifts your day-to-day behavior, causing a domino effect on other habits.

After focusing on getting food waste out of the garbage bin, I wanted to tackle single-use materials: the plastic wrap and aluminum foil and paper towels and snack baggies we were churning through in alarming quantities. Mr. Greenberg had cautioned me against going too heavy on the reusable gear. “A lot of people make these clean, green impulse purchases that then end up sitting around,” he said.

I restrained myself from buying a silicone sandwich keeper or a container made specially to store half an avocado. I found that plastic takeout containers made the best storage vessels and the bags my food came in—the sleeve off a loaf of bread, produce bags, zipper bags from deli meats—could be saved and used to pack kids’ snacks in place of new baggies.

Our system is far from perfect. I still make aspirational vegetable purchases that sit untouched for weeks, then wind up in the compost bin. (Whole artichokes? Who am I kidding?) We still throw away a vexing amount of food packaging.

But my family of five now puts out just one bag of trash per week, a lighter load made up of discarded snack bar wrappers and used tissues and shrink wrap and the like. Nothing, blessedly, that can leak on my feet.

All you really need to make similar tweaks to your own kitchen is a little bit of gear and a solid game plan. Below, my household’s road-tested recommendations.

The Low-Waste Kitchen

Author Elizabeth Dunn reorganized her New York City kitchen to reduce the food waste her family generates. “Wasted food accounts for about 8% of all greenhouse gas emissions, and nearly half of it occurs in the home,” she writes. Disinclined to clutter her counter tops with an excess of gadgetry, she found that a few well-designed items and sound strategies made a big difference.

Feed Your Garden

Composting is the best way to process food waste. But if you don’t have outdoor space of your own or another local option for disposing of food scraps, the Vitamix FoodCycler FC-50 offers an interesting alternative. It dries and pulverizes almost any type of food in a matter of hours, transforming it into a crumbly brown substance with an earthy fragrance. Designed for indoor use, this gadget emits no garbage-y odors as it works thanks to a carbon filtration system. The end product, a fertilizer full of nutrients, can be mixed with soil to enrich it. $400,

So Long, Single-Use Plastics

Anne Riggs Designs Zero Waste Laminated Cotton Bowl Covers, handmade in Portland, Maine, come in a range of cheerful prints. They have helped to eliminate plastic wrap and aluminum foil from the Dunn family’s kitchen routine. The set includes covers in three different sizes that can also be used to cover plates of leftovers. You can wipe them clean with a damp cloth or machine wash and dry them—just be sure to use a gentle setting to preserve their laminated surface. $30 for three,

Paper Towel Proxy

To rid her kitchen of conventional paper towels, Ms. Dunn experimented with terry cloth bar towels, cotton and linen tea towels, microfiber cloths, and reusable paper towels. Reusable, biodegradable FEBU Swedish dishcloths stood out as the winning solution—inexpensive, soft, sturdy and very absorbent. The Dunns keep a patterned one in rotation just for hands and faces, and a solid-color one for everything else. Between uses, wash them in the dishwasher or washing machine. They last about a month total in the Dunn household, and then they toss them in the compost. $20 for a 10-pack,

Get Scrappy

There’s a food waste bin out there to suit just about any budget and aesthetic. Ms. Dunn’s priorities were finding something easy to clean and ensuring it could fit under the sink. The slim profile of the Compo 4L Food Waste Caddy, from the British housewares company Joseph Joseph, is also ideal for scraping plates post-meal. At 4 liters, it’s big enough to avoid frequent trips to the backyard composter but small enough that Ms. Dunn thinks twice before dumping anything in. $20,

Our Game Plan

The true secret to composting? Make it the option of last resort. These strategies have helped us keep food waste to a minimum.

Shop Prudently

Much as I love the romance of cooking spontaneously and however the market inspires me, it’s the impulse purchases that wind up wilting in the fridge. The number one way I reduced food waste: meal planning before shopping and sticking to my list.

Store Smarter

I’ve learned that shoving groceries into the refrigerator wherever they fit is not a best practice. Storing fresh food in the proper light, humidity and temperature conditions boosts its longevity. Greens sealed in a container with a damp cloth last at least a week longer. A cut avocado stays fresh for days sealed in a container. Garlic won’t sprout stored in a dark cupboard. Many good storage guides exist online. I taped one to the fridge.

Bend the Rules

I’ve stopped treating recipes like gospel and started fudging things to match the ingredients I have at hand. If a soup calls for one diced tomato but I’ve got two that are about to go off, I use them both. Rather than buy a container of sour cream to use just a few tablespoons, I might swap in Greek yogurt.

Label Liberally

The leftovers rule: If we can’t see what it is or don’t know when it was cooked, nobody’s eating it. We use glass or clear-plastic containers for storage, labeled and dated on painter’s tape.

Freeze Assets

All veggie scraps—celery ends, carrot peels, garlic skins—plus any wilted produce go into a sealed bag in the freezer, which I draw on periodically for stock. Overripe fruit goes in a second bag for smoothies.

Grow Your Own.

I haven’t found a way to use entire bunches of store-bought herbs easy enough that I will actually adopt it. Instead, I grow my own and pick what I need. Countertop hydroponic systems like those by Aerogarden (from $100, grow herbs and microgreens up to five times faster than they grow in soil.


Updated: 10-31-2021

Is Cheap Food Worth The Risks?

A Q&A with author Bartow J. Elmore on the history of Monsanto and the dangers of using genetic engineering to boost the world’s food supply.

Amanda Little: Global population growth and climate change have strained the world’s food supply and accelerated the race to develop new, more efficient ways of growing crops. Advances in genetic engineering, notably the genome editing technology known as CRISPR, have opened up food-production possibilities that were unimaginable just a few years ago. You’re the author of a new book, “Seed Money: Monsanto’s Past and Our Food Future.” In telling the history of Monsanto, the chemical giant that has long been at the forefront of genetically-modified agriculture, you make the case that we should proceed cautiously into this new era – we can’t move forward responsibly without looking back. Quick litmus test to begin with: What did you have for breakfast?

Bartow J. Elmore, author, “Seed Money: Monsanto’s Past and Our Food Future”: Huevos rancheros, no meat. Not a vegan diet – I still eat eggs, but I’m trying to reduce the meat consumption as best I can these days.

AL: The story of Monsanto has been told in the media for decades, mostly as a sordid tale. Why is this book important now?

BE: This year is the 25th anniversary of the first introduction of commodity crops genetically engineered by Monsanto. They came on the scene around 1996 and we now have 25 years of data to look back on. My question was: What can we say about the first phase of this deployment? I’m fascinated by Monsanto as a company that’s everywhere, but we don’t see it. It’s in the seeds and chemicals that grow the food we eat, but also in synthetic fibers in our clothes, the synthetic rubber in our shoes.

AL: Take us into your reporting process.

BE: My training is as a historian, so I started with archives and getting access to decades of documents and papers, but realized if I was going to tell the story right, I needed to get out of the archives. I started dialing phone numbers to see if I could get a hold of the highest people in the company. Sometimes they would talk, which was amazing. I traveled abroad — Brazil and Vietnam — to look at Monsanto’s impact overseas. I ended up spending a lot of time with lawyers and attending court proceedings. There were so many cases against Monsanto that I didn’t even see coming when I began my research: trials involving Monsanto’s Roundup weed killer and litigation over damage caused by another product, dicamba. Journalist mentors took me under their wing and taught me techniques to get the stories that I otherwise wouldn’t have gotten in the archives.

AL: The story was developing as you wrote. At its core, is this book trying to prove conclusively what many lawyers have failed to do in the courtroom — that Monsanto showed a willfully reckless attitude toward the safety of its workers and the public?

BE: When I started out, my intention was to begin with a clean slate, to see where the facts led. When I first started writing, my brother sent me a bumper sticker that said, “Monsatan,” so I was well aware of the public perception that this was an unethical firm, and I knew I was going to have to get beyond easy stereotypes What began to emerge was a story about how good people end up in positions where they create technologies that might have outsize influences on the environment that maybe they didn’t anticipate. I think former CEO Bob Shapiro is a great example of that. I don’t think it’s fair to say he was just out for profit; he was clearly inspired by these ideas of sustainability. So I try at times to tell those human stories.

But I also felt an obligation to ask, What did they know about the toxic compounds they sold and when did they know it? And I did see what I thought were unethical choices.

AL: What choices concerned you most?

BE: I was really struck, for example, by an internal document where the company’s executives were debating what to do about PCBs, toxic compounds that were some of Monsanto’s most profitable products. In that document, they literally wrote, “Sell the hell out of them as long as we possibly can.” I was also struck by the treatment of workers at their facility in Nitro, West Virginia, that produced the Agent Orange that was used in Vietnam.

In one case, a worker’s face was being peeled off layer upon layer because he had such reactions to being exposed to this chemical. Monsanto was even paying bonuses to the workers just to get them to work with 2,4,5-T, the active ingredient in Agent Orange. This was in the 1940s and 1950s, long before American soldiers and Vietnamese citizens would be exposed to this stuff. Meanwhile, you see internal documents in 1965 where Dow is writing to Monsanto saying, “Guys, this is some of the most toxic stuff we’ve ever seen.” Again, the company would keep selling this to the U.S. military despite what they knew internally.

AL: You show us that even as the EPA cracked down on Superfund sites and big polluters, it continued to allow Monsanto to expand. How did Monsanto manage to dodge regulatory oversight?

BE: Time and time again, scientific studies on their chemical products were funded by Monsanto or even run by Monsanto – studies that were used as primary evidence to legitimate the use of these chemicals. It was the fox watching the henhouse. The message is clear: We need a firmer divide between the science that’s being used to decide what the regulations are and the people that are being regulated.

AL: How cooperative was Monsanto, now owned by Bayer, in your research process?

BE: A lot of Monsanto employees really believe in what they’re doing. And so, there was a sense of openness from some people, like, “Let me tell you my story because I actually think what I’m doing is right.” I get it. I’m a person who studied biochemistry and I get that feeling of, hey, we can use this technology to make a difference.

AL: For all of its impacts on the environment and human health, what do you think are the benefits of Monsanto’s work over these decades?

BE: It’s easy to say, “Monsanto’s so evil. I don’t want anything to do with them.” Well, that’s impossible. The entire modern economy, you could argue, is made up of the synthetic products born of the chemical age. We all depend on these products. They made things easy, very cheap and accessible. They allow a much larger number of people to have certain amenities. I’m looking around the room right now and I literally cannot see anything in here that doesn’t come from petrochemical feedstocks in some form or fashion.

AL: Including your body.

BE: Including my body and the food that we eat. Interestingly, it was the energy crisis in the 1970s that pushed Monsanto to go into the seed business. They needed to get away from their dependency on petrochemicals because 80 percent of what they were making was coming from fossil fuels. By going into agricultural biotechnology they were trying to escape the fossil fuel economy in a way. But they never fully did. And neither did we.

AL: Do you think the rising cost of petrochemical feedstocks derived from oil and natural gas will transform the chemical industry going forward?

BE: Because of fracking and new technologies that have enabled access to cheap oil and natural gas, chemical producers are not yet feeling those pressures. In fact, we’re seeing a massive expansion of petrochemical plants right now. They’re probably going to become one of the leading causes of greenhouse gases as we close down a lot of these coal-powered plants.

AL: Ultimately, neither the EPA, nor the court system, but nature itself has posed the biggest challenges to Monsanto. Its major herbicides have been getting less and less effective as weeds, which are like evolutionary ninjas, have developed resistance. Can you comment on this phenomenon of nature fighting back?

BE: Monsanto marketed its Roundup Ready crop system as incapable of producing weeds that would become resistant to its blockbuster herbicide Roundup, but within two to three years we started seeing the first cases of weeds developing resistance to this chemical. Weeds reproduce and adapt incredibly quickly. Yet Monsanto was writing journal articles at the time saying, “Roundup’s different. Weeds will not develop resistance to this.” It’s hard to understand how they could argue that because just a few years after Roundup Ready crops were first sold, weed resistance problems just exploded. In a way, this has presented a business opportunity for Monsanto. They’ve brought back dicamba and other highly potent herbicides and designed seeds resistant to those herbicides. As nature fights back, they create new seeds that now help crops tolerate multiple herbicides. It’s almost like the iPhone. You need the iPhone 10. Now you need the iPhone 11. Now you need the iPhone 12. Monsanto is a really good problem-seller.

AL: Can you take us through the escalating human health impacts of Monsanto’s herbicide products?

BE: There’s a graph in the book that tracks the resurgence of all these post-World War II-era chemicals, including dicamba and 2 4-D, which is now coming back into play. These chemicals came out of war, the mindset of war. In this sense, the future of food is the technologies of the past. It’s not just the problems posed by individual chemicals, which are linked to various cancers and have all sorts of systemic effects on the body, but often the interactions between the chemicals that is most problematic. We don’t yet know what it will look like, but it is harrowing.

AL: At the same time, we’re also seeing a lot of great ideas from the past re-emerge. Agro-ecology and regenerative farming are getting a lot more attention and becoming more prevalent today. What is the future of farming to your mind?

BE: I think it’s a combination of technology and biomimicry, as you argue in your book, “The Fate of Food.” There’s lots of exciting technological progress on the horizon, from hydroponics to nanotechnologies that might help micro-organisms fix nitrogen in the soil. But I still think that if there’s one guiding principle, it should be biomimicry: If you’re going to engineer agricultural technologies, pay attention to how nature does things. We’ve seen nature sustain life on this planet for billions of years. And it’s pretty remarkable stuff. The war-on-nature model must be a thing of the past.

AL: What do you think are the most virtuous or beneficial applications of genetic engineering and CRISPR?

Updated: 11-4-2021

To Stop Food Waste, Pick A ‘Use-Up Day

A behavioral economist answers questions about eating what’s in your fridge and resolving conflicts by text message.

With young children and two working parents, there is never a dull moment in our house. Unfortunately, our busy life and unpredictable schedules often make me forget what food is in the fridge, leaving me no choice but to throw away things that have expired or gone bad. Do you have any recommendations for how we can curb our food waste? —Helena

The bad news is that a busy lifestyle—and a lack of inspiration for dealing with seemingly random ingredients—can get in the way of our best intentions never to throw out perfectly good food. The good news is that picking just one day a week to create a meal using ingredients already in your kitchen can significantly reduce the amount of waste.

Researchers in Canada used an ingenious idea they called a “Use-Up Day’’ in one study they undertook with a consumer goods company in 2020. Over the course of five weeks, all participating households received tips on food management and were asked to complete a weekly survey about the amount of food wasted.

A randomly selected subgroup of households was asked to commit to one “Use-Up Day” each week on which they used leftover ingredients from their fridge and pantry to cook a meal. The participants who took part in the “Use-Up Day” not only reduced their food waste by a third, they also reported saving money.

So maybe instead of fighting food waste just a little bit every day, pick one day a week and, on that day, focus on using what you have.

Welcome To The Next Generation Of Sugar Replacements

The pandemic turbocharged interest in substitutes that taste like sugar while being healthier. But medical experts are sounding a note of caution.

We’ve entered a new era in our love-hate relationship with sugar. After decades of trying to make substitutes like Sweet’N Low, Splenda and Stevia work for consumers, the sugar-alternative industry is fielding contenders with a better chance at unseating that ubiquitous substance.

The timing seems to be right. According to a recent survey by market research firm Euromonitor, 37% of consumers globally are looking for products with no sugar, no added sugar or low sugar.

Overconsumption of sugar has long been connected to disease—it’s cited as a contributing factor to obesity, which has tripled globally since the 1970s, and cardiovascular disease, which is the leading cause of death globally. Obesity is also a factor in Type 2 diabetes, which afflicts hundreds of millions of people around the world.

In a 2021 nutrition survey on reasons to avoid sugar, more than 57% of respondents said doing so “makes them feel healthier.” An equally high percentage reported “it’s better for me to avoid these ingredients.”

The coronavirus pandemic has helped accelerate this trend, as some 79% of global consumers said they’re planning to eat and drink more healthily over the next year, according to a report by consumer research firm FMCG Gurus. Of those consumers, 56% plan to reduce sugar intake.

In most cases, the new crop of sweeteners are derived from natural substances—including traditional sugar itself, otherwise known as sucrose. In a consumer market increasingly focused on healthier eating, that may come in handy.

The mountain, however, is high. Despite decades of medical admonitions, sugar is still pretty much everywhere. It’s currently found in 60% of packaged foods sold in the U.S., which has one of the highest sugar intakes of any nation.

One reason for this is clear to anyone who has tried traditional sugar substitutes. Few come close to matching the taste of sucrose in consumer taste tests or have the range in formulation for moisture, flavor and texture suitable for use in packaged foods.

Indeed, Rabobank analyst Pablo Sherwell said 85% of all sweeteners consumed are still traditional sugar. All told, it’s a $100 billion market. “The industry isn’t concerned,” he said.

But that may not be entirely the case. One industry trade group is already pushing back on how substitutes are presented to consumers. The Sugar Association, which says it represents 142,000 growers, processers and refiners of sugar, said it has asked the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to change labeling requirements so as to make it clearer when products contain alternative sweeteners.

According to makers of sugar substitutes, Big Sugar has good reason to worry. But among the would-be challengers, taste isn’t the only problem to solve: price is an issue, too.


Most prominent among alternative sweeteners is a rare type of sugar called allulose. First discovered in wheat in the 1940s, it’s one-third less sweet than sugar, but it also has one-tenth the calories.

In 2019, the FDA said allulose could be removed from the “added sugar” line on “nutrition facts” labels because, unlike sucrose, which is quickly broken down by enzymes and turned into glucose, most allulose is excreted in urine, meaning it doesn’t significantly impact blood sugar levels. Another benefit is that it doesn’t promote bacteria growth, which can cause cavities.

Tate & Lyle, a $3 billion food and beverage ingredient supplier, makes a version of allulose that’s “non-GMO Project verified” so as to appeal to food brands marketing themselves to health and environmentally conscious consumers.

The sweetener is already found in a wide range of packaged foods, such as cake mixes and cookies. It’s also used in candies such as Smart Sweets’ popular gummy bears and low-carb bread sold by the SOLA Company.

“Consumers are now actually looking at sugar and added sugar with as much importance as total calories,” said Abigail Storms, global head of specialty sweeteners at Tate & Lyle. Demand has swelled of late, she said, because of a pandemic proclivity for snack foods and ice cream, and due to interest in the “keto” diet—which prescribes an extremely low carbohydrate count.

However, the expense of production may be an obstacle to mass adoption. Though found naturally in some plants, making allulose in bulk requires it be produced mostly from corn in a complex chemical reaction. It’s a hurdle other types of sweeteners must overcome as well.


Made by Tel Aviv, Israel-based DouxMatok, Incredo is a reengineered version of sucrose touted as sweeter than the original. Though it still has the same potential health problems that flow from sucrose, less of it is needed to sweeten foods the same way.

About 80% of what humans consider sweetness in sugar is lost on them. Sugar molecules are tightly bound—most fail to interact with taste buds during chewing. DouxMatok said it’s managed to insert tiny silica granules (a common food additive used in baking) into sucrose, which enables more sugar to spread out and be tasted before swallowing.

Two years ago, DouxMatok sent a sample to Lior Lev Sercarz, owner of La Boîte, a spice shop in Manhattan. Sercarz said he had already been on the hunt for a sugar substitute that didn’t sacrifice flavor, and DouxMatok seemed to fit the bill. “We didn’t have to add anything else to compensate,” he said.

David Tsivion, DouxMatok’s chief technology officer, said the company is hoping to land contracts with U.S. food manufacturers that produce cookies and spreads. But first, the company needs to reach price parity with sugar. Wholesale refined beet sugar averages .37 cents per pound in America. DouxMatok won’t share what the pricing for his product is, but said it’s definitely higher.


Supplant is on the other end of the spectrum—it’s less sweet, according to company founder Tom Simmons.

His goal isn’t to replace table sugar—he wants to replace it in everyday food products.

Cambridge, England-based Supplant grinds leftover fiber from plant waste, such as corn cobs, oat fibers and wheat bran, and then applies an enzymatic process to break it down into a dry white powder. The resulting product has similarities to sucrose but is lower in calories and slower to raise blood sugar levels, Simmons said.

Like sucrose, it includes small chains called disaccharides which allow it to bake and taste like sugar.

And because it’s made from plant waste, it includes prebiotic fiber, which helps slow the body’s absorption of carbohydrates.

“Sugar reduction in drinks was solved 40 years ago with diet soda. But for food products it was an unsolved problem,” he said. “What we want to push back on is extensive use of white refined [sugar] that’s flooding the food system.”

But to do that, you need something that outperforms traditional sugar in bulk, browning and caramelization. Chef Thomas Keller, owner of Per Se in New York City and The French Laundry in Yountville, California, said he’s been testing Supplant for the past year and a half. “These things are very intriguing for chefs,” he said. “We’re constantly looking for ways to make [food] more nutritious.”

When he first tried to entirely swap traditional sugar for Supplant, he said it was a “real struggle.”

His test vehicle was a shortbread cookie he’s been making for 27 years. The version he sells today at Bouchon Bakery in Yountville, uses a 50-50 blend of Supplant and sugar. But Keller still views it as a success: “If everyone was eating half the sugar they eat today…that changes the world.”

Another baker testing Supplant is Angela Diaz, owner of You’re a Cookie, a direct-to-consumer bakery out of Chicago. At first, she was skeptical. “I’m not a big fan of replacement sugars because they leave an aftertaste,” she said.

Supplant however “leaves no aftertaste,” she said, adding that it worked well in melted fats or oils. But when baking her cookies, she also needed to mix it with regular white or brown sugar.

Supplant and Incredo are both racing to win over customers, but neither is close to allulose when it comes to market penetration. During the pandemic, London-based Tate & Lyle ran into production difficulties because of high demand, a situation that could repeat itself if a potential U.S. customer approves its use.

The quality standards team at Amazon-owned Whole Foods is currently evaluating whether to allow the sale of products containing allulose, a Whole Foods Market spokesperson said.

Allulose is “Generally Recognized as Safe” (GRAS) by the FDA, a status based on submissions by the manufacturer and outside experts—not formal government studies. DouxMatok, a combination of traditional sugar and silica, already has GRAS status, and Supplant said it plans to seek it from the government, too. In the European Union, however, allulose still awaits approval as a “novel ingredient,” which requires scientific review.

Comprehensive or independent medical studies of these sugar alternatives is largely lacking. DouxMatok hasn’t done any studies backing the safety of its ingredient and Supplant said it’s done one small clinical trial. Its data, the company said, showed that consumption of its product triggered an 85% lower glycemic response than sugar.

Dr. Michael Greger, a physician and author of nutrition books including “How Not to Diet,” said allulose may be the most promising candidate to replace sugar, but “we just don’t have a lot of good human studies that put it to the test.” As a result, he’s not ready to recommend it for human consumption.

Another medical expert said the entire debate may be a false one, since imitation sugar could end up being just as bad for you.

Dr. Robert Lustig, a pediatric endocrinologist at the University of California at San Francisco, said it’s still unknown whether putting anything sweet on a human tongue sends the same message to the brain. It’s possible, he said, that an insulin response is triggered regardless of it being sucrose or a substitute. The pancreas controls insulin response, and that controls weight gain, he explained.

“All of these companies are running around trying to figure out what to do to mitigate the negative effects,” said Lustig. “The right answer is to de-sweeten our lives.”

Updated: 11-5-2021

After Decades of Breeding Bigger Birds, Some Producers Are Shrinking The Chicken

Boutique farmers say smaller is better for eating—and ethics.

In the 1920s it took more than three months and almost 12 pounds of feed for a chicken to grow to a sellable size, at the time about 2½ pounds. Today, thanks to cross-breeding and industrial farming methods, breeders can get a 6½-pound bird ready for slaughter in seven weeks, while it consumes a bit less feed.

But that increase in efficiency has come at a cost: Most chickens are raised in cramped industrial facilities, they’ve been bred to have breasts so big that they can barely stand up straight, and the meat can be riddled with unappetizing white strips of fat or develop a hard, woody texture.

Now an emerging segment of the industry wants to reverse course, raising smaller birds more slowly—with both ethics and eating in mind. These producers say they can strike a better balance of animal welfare, efficiency, and the meat’s flavor and tenderness.

They eschew the fast-growing genetic trait, selecting animals whose offspring are healthy, with robust immune systems and strong legs for jumping and running outside. And they’re looking to ensure the animals achieve happiness in bird terms, meaning the ability to do things like perch, peck, and scratch in the dirt.

“Hyperdemand and competitiveness for cheaper meat have driven down the quality of chicken,” says Matt Wadiak, founder of Cooks Venture, a company in Arkansas that sells a slower-growing breed of pasture-raised poultry. “The industry is on a runaway train.”

These niche producers will struggle to make a meaningful dent in the market. Currently only two breeders—Aviagen Group and Cobb-Vantress, a unit of U.S. giant Tyson Foods Inc.—control the genetics for more than 90% of the 60 billion broilers annually slaughtered for food worldwide. There’s a “massive bottleneck” in chicken genetics, says Jack Algiere, farm director at the Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture, a research center in New York’s Hudson Valley.

Breeders developing new lines have to be cautious because “chances are those genetics are patented or have some intellectual property on them,” he says. “It’s all been consolidated.” Aviagen and Cobb-Vantress say they help chicken producers worldwide supply sustainable and affordable protein using methods that ensure the welfare of the birds.

Despite the animal welfare and quality issues with mass-produced chicken, the inexpensive cuts are responsible for a poultry renaissance. In the U.S. it’s the most popular meat—ahead of beef and pork—with Americans consuming an average of almost 100 pounds annually, more than triple the level in 1960. In the past year supermarkets and restaurant chains such as KFC, Wingstop, and Bojangles have reported they can’t get sufficient supplies.

Although the smaller producers are more expensive—as much as $10 per pound for boneless breasts vs. about $3.50 for mass-market birds—they say demand for their meat is increasing. Since its inception in 2019, Cooks Venture has grown its weekly output to as many as 600,000 chickens from its breed, a cross between a Transylvanian naked neck and Delaware and Peterson lines.

Freedom Ranger Hatchery Inc. in Reinholds, Pa., which sells to small farms, has increased production of its heritage breeds by 20% over the past year. D’Artagnan Inc., a company in New Jersey that focuses on Brune Landaise chickens native to France, has seen sales of those birds jump 28%, to 60,000 a week, since the start of the pandemic. “If you pay more for a good chicken, you’re going to get a much, much better taste,” says owner Ariane Daguin.

Breeding, though, is painstaking and expensive. Perdue Farms Inc., a giant that controls 7% of the U.S. market for chicken meat, has been working on a series of alternative breeds since 2016 but won’t say when any of them will be available in stores. Scott Sechler, owner of Bell & Evans, a premium producer in Fredericksburg, Pa., says it’s difficult to design a tasty animal that can also live a longer life.

The company has invested $75 million in a new slower-growing chicken but hasn’t yet developed a bird with meat that’s sufficiently tender. “Any older animal has more flavor but gets tougher,” he says. “Consumers don’t like that.”

Yet advocates of a slower approach say tastes are changing, and the Global Animal Partnership, a food-labeling nonprofit that assesses farming methods, is changing along with them.

The group, which certifies animal welfare practices that help determine the purchasing of brands such as Applegate Farms, Coleman Natural Foods, and Whole Foods Market’s 365, is set to release a revised list of approved breeds that will initially exclude some of the bigger varieties while adding a few new ones.

“It might be a little bit smaller piece of chicken on your plate for the same price,” says Anne Malleau, the group’s executive director. “But it’s better for the bird, and we’re hoping consumers will see the value in that.”

BOTTOM LINE – Only two companies control the genetics for more than 90% of the 60 billion broilers slaughtered for food every year, but some producers say they can develop birds that lead a happier life and taste better.

Updated: 11-6-2021

An Indigenous Chef Is Putting Her Heritage On The Menu With Landmark Restaurant


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Crystal Wahpepah wants you to ask yourself: what foods are native to the land that you’re on? The Indigenous chef from Oakland, Calif., is on a mission to bring the ingredients and dishes of her community to more people.

Wahpepah always had a love for cooking, having started when she was just a kid making meals with her grandmothers and aunties. She’s from Oklahoma — Kickapoo on her grandfather’s side, and Sac and Fox on her grandmother’s side.


When Wahpepah started catering 12 years ago, she realized there weren’t a lot of Indigenous chefs, or places to get Indigenous food. Over time, she catered lots of events, eventually growing her business to the point where she was preparing food for tech giants like Google, Facebook and Twitter.

But whether she was cooking for her native community or Silicon Valley, she would get questions about the food — about where it originated, or what tribe it was from. She realized she didn’t have all the answers.

“A lot had to do with a lot of historical trauma and displacement, especially of our foods,” she said.

So Wahpepah set off on a quest to get those answers, starting with Oklahoma.

She spoke with native farmers and seed keepers from all over the country, learning more about these native ingredients and their history. She joined Food Sovereignty Alliance and went to food summits where native chefs and farmers gathered.

“We all kind of met together and it was something … I was so missing [and] they were missing,” Wahpepah said.

Her favorite thing to learn about was seeds.

“We have so many different beautiful seeds that are from here … I wanted to know more,” she said. “How they’re carried, how they’re kept and where they’re kept. And you know, how they grow if they’re not from that area.”

After more than a decade of catering, Wahpepah is opening her own restaurant. Called Wahpepah’s Kitchen, it will be the newest Indigenous restaurant in Oakland. She hopes her food introduces people to her culture.

“At the end of the day, that’s what I want: to make people fully aware or people just to realize whose land they’re on,” she said.

“I feel that Native American communities, Native American people are so forgotten … and so that’s my job is to actually make everyone aware how good our foods are. Everybody has their job. My job is to cook beautiful native ingredients on the on the plate.”

On the menu you can find lots of squash, bison blueberry sausage with blue corn topped with huckleberries, venison meatballs with blueberry sauce, homemade chili and more. Her menu honors her childhood — and different tribes.

“My tribe, of course. And we’re sited on Ohlone land, and when it comes to that, we have the acorn,” Wahpepah said. “When we have the smoked salmon, it’s honoring the Pomo tribe, which is up north and my children are Pomo and I have family members that are Pomo. I’m honoring that.”

“I never try to dabble in something I never grew up with. This is something that made me who I am and what I embrace.”

Most of her ingredients are provided by Indigenous farmers from around the country who she has built relationships with over the years. And Wahpepah wants her restaurant to inspire other Indigenous chefs.

“I want them to know that if I can do it, you can do it too,” she said. “The more I waited, the more and more I had this vision of how much my community needs me, how much our community needs to see native foods on the front line in the community, not just from catering.

“And if they see a restaurant, maybe it can go from there. Somebody else will want to open a restaurant.”

Controversies Surrounding Tiramisu

‘I don’t need this overrated dessert’: The man who brought tiramisu to the masses has died, but not everyone is a fan of his culinary legacy.

Ado Campeol, whose restaurant was supposedly behind the dish’s creation, passed away at age 93. We assess the legacy of his signature dish.

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It’s a sad moment for those who love Italian food — in particular, for those who always make a point of ordering a certain Italian dessert combining ladyfingers, coffee, chocolate and mascarpone cheese.

Yes, Ado Campeol, the restaurant owner whose place is often credited with inventing tiramisu, has died at age 93.

But excuse me if I’m not quite in a deep state of mourning. I mean no disrespect to Campeol, who ran Le Beccherie, a dining establishment in Treviso, a city in northern Italy. I’m sure he was a great and gifted proprietor — or as his son Carlo told the Italian press, “My father was…a serious professional who for us children was an example in work and in life.”

It’s just that I hate tiramisu.

To me, it’s not so much a dessert as a mess of a meal-ender, a menu item that is often too ill-structured or confusing to satisfy. It’s not a cake, but it hints at being one. It’s not a custard, but it has something resembling custard in it. And it’s not a cup of coffee, but it sometimes feels like it’s swimming in one — to the point of being more soup than sweet delight.

Clearly, I’m in the minority (well, not entirely, but I’ll get to that in a bit). Ask almost any owner of an Italian restaurant and they’ll tell you tiramisu, whose name translates from the Italian as “pick me up,” is their most popular dessert — and has been so for years.

Campeol introduced it in 1972 at his establishment and it soon took off as a global phenomenon. By 1985, the New York Times praised it as “a deceptively airy but shamefully rich creation in the mousse-pudding family,” noting that it “has at least 200 variations.”

In its simplest form, the dish is about soaking those ladyfingers (or sponge cake or some other near-equivalent) in coffee, then layering in the mascarpone-based filling. A topping of chocolate or cocoa powder finishes the dessert. If you want to get clever or fancy, you can think in terms of those variations — say, adding some liquor to the mix, such as rum, Marsala wine or espresso liqueur.

Why did the dish catch on? Lots of theories abound. Stephen Collucci, a veteran pastry chef now with the Tavern, a restaurant at New York’s Hudson Yards development, says tiramisu is the “perfect” item to conclude a meal because “you can have your dessert and coffee all in one place.” Collucci loves tiramisu so much he’s experimented over the years with everything from a tiramisu cheesecake to tiramisu ice cream.

Tiramisu is also an item that benefits from being very shareable. “You can put it in the middle of the table” and let diners spoon away at it, says Iacopo Falai, culinary director of Sant Ambroeus, a high-end Italian restaurant group with locations in New York and elsewhere. (By contrast, it’s not easy to do that with a slice of cake or pie, Falai adds.)

But these and other culinary pros concede there’s a downside to the tiramisu boom of the last few decades. The dessert has become so ubiquitous that it’s been cheapened along the way. Lesser-quality ingredients are sometimes substituted. Commercial versions are frequently served instead of ones prepared in house.

“More often than not, it’s a frozen piece of crap” restaurants are buying and then thawing out, laments Michael Ayoub, a veteran New York restaurateur who’s been serving tiramisu for more than 30 years at his different establishments, including Fornino in Brooklyn.

Even then, it’s no small feat making a good tiramisu, food professionals warn. The dish is about elevating basic ingredients in just the right way — and therein lies the challenge. “It’s not easy being simple,” says Dino Borri, global vice president of Eataly, the Italian market/food hall with locations throughout the world.

So perhaps my issue with tiramisu is more about the versions I’ve been served than with the dish itself. But all I know is that I’m not alone in my general disliking of it. Put “tiramisu” and “overrated” in a Google search and you’ll find plenty of folks expressing opinions similar to mine.

“I don’t care who makes it or how it’s made. It’s nasty, period,” says one person in the anti-tiramisu camp. “I don’t need this overrated dessert. I’ll get my calories from that second glass of wine, thankyouverymuch,” says another.

Of course, I’m sure Ado Campeol didn’t mean to offer a dish that could prove so divisive. And to be fair, the version offered at his restaurant looks most elegant.

The irony is that there’s a robust debate as to whether Campeol’s restaurant can even be credited with inventing tiramisu. As with many classic dishes, the creation story is complex. Food historian Francine Segan notes the possibility that tiramisu could have first been served in the 19th Century — in a brothel no less.

I won’t get into any arguments about history, however. Rest in peace, Mr. Campeol. But if I ever make it to your restaurant, I’d like to know if it serves ricotta cheesecake — now that’s my idea of the perfect Italian dessert.


Updated: 11-9-2021

Thanksgiving Dinner Staples Are Low In Stock Thanks To Supply-Chain Issues

Turkeys, yams and pies are low in supply, though aluminum foil to cover it all will be easier to find than last year

The supply-chain crunch is about to hit another part of American life: Thanksgiving dinner.

Supplies of food and household items are 4% to 11% lower than normal as of Oct. 31, according to data from market-research firm IRI. That figure isn’t far from the bare shelves of March 2020, when supplies were down 13%.

For grocery shoppers this holiday season, it means that someone with 20 items on their list would be out of luck on two of them.

Although U.S. supermarket operators started purchasing holiday items early, aiming to avoid shortages, many holiday essentials are already in short supply.

Here’s what’s in and out of stock right now, according to IRI data.

Turkeys Are Very Low In Stock

By the end of October turkeys were over 60% out of stock—lower than the same time last year by more than 30 percentage points. A spokesperson for Butterball LLC, one of the largest U.S. turkey processors, said the company has been experiencing similar labor and supply challenges as other organizations and industries.

Cranberry Sauce Is Low In Stock

Cans of cranberry sauce are 20% out of stock and in decline. A representative on behalf of Ocean Spray Cranberries Inc., which manufactures cranberry sauce and other fruit products, said it has been experiencing issues with materials and transportation that may result in reduced availability.

Yams And Sweet Potatoes Are Low In Stock

In recent weeks, supplies of sweet potatoes and yams have remained below last year’s levels. Currently, they are a quarter out of stock.

Boxes Of Stuffing Are Low In Stock, But Higher Than Last Year

Stuffing might be OK! In recent weeks, supplies of boxed stuffing have been increasing, though still remain below average levels. In anticipation of holiday demand, food giant Kraft Heinz Co. increased production of Stove Top Stuffing by 25% compared with last year, according to a spokesperson.

Refrigerated Pies Are Low In Stock

Supplies of refrigerated pie have been declining steadily over the past month. Besides turkey, this product will be among the most out-of-stock of essential Thanksgiving items. Frozen pies will be slightly easier to find.

Aluminum Foil Is Lowish In Stock, But Higher Than Last Year

One item that will be easier to find than last year is foil, so at least you can store your Thanksgiving leftovers—if you find those foods in the first place.

Overall, household items are slightly easier to find than last year whereas food products are slightly harder.

Essential ingredients might not be the only things absent from Thanksgiving dinner this year. Guests traveling will be faced with car rental and gas prices the highest they have been in seven years.

Rental-car fleets have experienced shortages for months, and are expected to continue into the holiday season.

Flight prices, while lower than pre-pandemic levels, are on the rise again, and travel advisers are recommending consumers buy those holiday tickets now. Thanksgiving-week bookings were 35.5% higher in early October than at the same point in 2019, according to analytics firm AirDNA.

As for gifts, stores are encouraging people to shop early and are running holiday sales much sooner than previous years.

How To Avoid The 7 Worst Holiday Table Decor Mistakes

Chic decorating ideas from designers and entertaining experts, who identified the Thanksgiving table gaffes they see most often, and what to do instead.

FOR MANY AMERICANS, Thanksgiving will mark the first time they are setting the table for a holiday dinner party in quite some time. So we won’t judge when a host positions the dessert fork where the butter knife should be.

But some decisions are key to guests’ comfort. A cornucopia that blocks sight lines across the table? A big no. Personal place cards to head off the confusion of seating arrangements? Absolutely.

Here, our panel of design and entertaining pros share the mistakes that can derail a holiday dinner party before the turkey even hits the table, plus recommendations for keeping your meal on track and your décor memorable.

1. Too Much Of A Good Theme

A table needn’t be covered in brown and orange linens, pilgrim figurines and gourds galore to make the evening feel special.

“We are eating the turkey,” said New York interior designer Elizabeth Gill. “We don’t need to see [plates] adorned with turkeys too.”

Instead: “To create a festive feeling, focus more on the season than the actual holiday,” said Vancouver interior designer Gillian Segal. She suggests incorporating underused fall colors like merlot, bringing in orange through citrus fruits instead of pumpkins and tucking a pheasant feather into each napkin ring.

2. Overcrowded Tables

A surplus of decorative objects will crowd both the victuals and the visitors. “Pumpkins, ornamental trees, cornucopias, flowers all take up space,” said Kendall Wilkinson, a San Francisco interior designer. “Don’t overwhelm the table, or your guests will be silently fighting for space.”

Instead: “Set out functional items you will need to accompany your meal first so you can see how much space you have to work with for centerpieces and candles,” said Atlanta interior designer Lauren E. Lowe.

3. Disposable Décor

A Thanksgiving feast deserves better than paper plates, says our design panel. “Going to the trouble of making such an important meal and then dishing it out on a flimsy plate is just sad! For the cook, the food and the guests,” said Joanna Buchanan, a home-décor designer based in Wilton, Conn.

Instead: You don’t need fine china to set a beautiful table, Ms. Buchanan argued. “Start with white china from Crate and Barrel, and then layer with mix-and-match thrifted plates for a super eclectic vibe.” Anne Rainey Rokahr, founder of Trouvaille Home, a shop in Winston-Salem, N.C., agreed: “A special tablecloth, candles and a single floral arrangement is far more special and doesn’t ravage the environment.”

4. Overly Precious Settings

While many of us have been waiting years to dust off Grandma’s wedding china, don’t feel the need to use every teacup and dessert spoon. “I hate tables that look too studied,” said Palm Beach, Fla., interior and textile designer Mally Skok. “All the plates and glasses don’t need to match. It shouldn’t feel like you are eating in a restaurant or a hotel.”

Instead: To knock back the preciousness of your china, Ms. Skok suggests colorful Italian water glasses, which can be affordably sourced from Etsy, and mismatched jugs and vases that homes accumulate over the years. If kids are in attendance, New York City home-goods designer Kim Seybert suggests parking little chocolate Thanksgiving figurines at children’s place settings.

“Make it fun and whimsical,” she said.

5. Sky-High Centerpieces

“Nothing is worse than a tablescape that is too tall for conversation,” said Ms. Segal. The Usual Culprit: Tall Floral Arrangements.

Instead: Many designers suggested setting a low, linear garland or a row of bud vases down the table’s center. “One of the most gracefully simple tablescapes I’ve had the pleasure of dining at was adorned with simple rosemary and persimmons,” said Los Angeles interior designer Maya Williams.

6. Seating Miscalculations

“A common mistake when hosting a meal is either trying to squeeze too many people around a table or spreading them too far apart,” said Caroline Downing Nadel, Founder of London home-décor company Wicklewood.

Instead: If all guests are vaccinated, the relative intimacy of a happy medium is best. Ms. Wilkinson suggests carving out 24 inches for each guest. “The placemats, decorative chargers, napkins and all utensils should fit within that footprint,” she said. Ms. Downing Nadel cautions that if you’re combining tables, be sure they are the same height. Then choose table linens that will cover the seams, and layer a table runner across the entire length to create a cohesive surface.

7. Extraneous Scents

The only aromas coming from your holiday table should make your guests’ mouths water. Pumpkin spice candles or cinnamon-scented pine cones create unappetizing olfactory confusion.

Instead: Save such potent accessories for another area of your home, said New York interior designer Michael Cox. Their fragrance “can be overpowering and distract from your holiday feast.” The best scents, he added “are those that emanate naturally from a great meal cooking in the kitchen or a freshly cut Christmas tree.”

Holiday-Table Horrors

Design Experts On Memorable Missteps

“A Thanksgiving host put a live turkey on the table as part of the décor. Not only did the turkey take up all of the space at the table, it left unwanted ‘gifts’ everywhere.” —Vero Torres, co-founder of Casa Felix, Miami

“All the guests were given pilgrim hats on their chairs to wear for the evening. Absurd.” —Carleton Varney, president of Dorothy Draper & Co., Palm Beach, Fla.

“A friend lamented his decision to display floral bouquets in hollowed-out pumpkins after they started oozing all over the table.” —Keith Meacham, co-founder of Reed Smythe & Co., Nashville, Tenn.

“Décor incorporating glitter or flocked pieces that flake off and stick to your guest’s favorite cashmere sweater leaves no one happy.”


British Food Firms Vow To Stop Soy Imports From Deforested Areas

More than two dozen companies, including British grocer J Sainsbury Plc, Swiss food giant Nestle SA and French yogurt maker Danone SA, are backing a U.K. initiative to stop soy shipments from deforested regions of the world.

A total 27 firms signed the UK Soy Manifesto, a new industry commitment to ensure physical soy shipments to the U.K. aren’t grown from areas where forests were cut down or native vegetation was converted into farmland after January 2020.

The initiative, launched Tuesday with secretarial support from British consultancy Efeca, follows similar efforts in Europe. Initial funding was provided by grocery chain Tesco Plc and the World Wildlife Fund.

The companies, which also include Pilgrim’s Pride Corp.’s U.K. unit, McDonald’s Corp. and KFC Corp., account for 60% of the U.K.’s soy imports, according to a statement on Efeca’s website. Annual soybean consumption in the U.K. is about 3.5 million tons. The signatories also agree to publicly disclose their progress and require their suppliers to adopt such commitments.

Deforestation and land-use change driven by agricultural expansion account for 23% of global greenhouse gas emissions, and commodities such as soy, beef, palm oil and timber are key global drivers, according to the initiative’s website.


Updated: 11-11-2021

‘Julia’ Review: Haute Cuisine, Honored Chef


Julie Cohen and Betsy West cook up a delightful documentary about Julia Child.

Julia Child finally gets the celebration she deserves in “Julia.” That’s no knock on Meryl Streep’s great-hearted and grandly comic portrayal of her in “Julie & Julia” more than a decade ago. This is a documentary, playing in select theaters.

It shows us the woman in full, a fearless, joyous eccentric committed to carrying the oriflamme of French cuisine to the Jell-O-scarfing masses. (A calumny on American cookery of the time, perhaps, but a producer who worked with Julia from the start makes the incendiary claim that no one in greater Boston had an omelet pan when “The French Chef” made its debut to immediate acclaim on WGBH, that city’s educational TV station, in 1963.)

The directors, Julie Cohen and Betsy West (they did the Ruth Bader Ginsburg doc “RBG” three years ago), begin the film with their statuesque star—at 6 foot 3 Julia towered above her cutting boards and stovetops—manhandling, or womanhandling, a particularly plump roasting chicken in the course of seasoning it, trussing it and giving it a deep-tissue butter massage before consigning the bird to the oven. Her devotion to butter was boundless, her sauces were legendarily rich.

So is this account of her journey from a life of privilege in Pasadena, Calif., where she was born in 1912, to Smith College, where young women were prepared for what she called “a leisurely butterfly life,” through her work during World War II as a top-secret researcher in the Office of Strategic Services, and then to postwar France, where she discovered her calling, though not yet the media—TV and cookbooks—that would make her improbably famous.

Art Buchwald, the American humorist who also lived in France after the war, once said he went to Paris because he’d heard the streets were paved with mattresses. Julia Child stayed in Paris because the streets were filled with restaurants serving the cuisine that she instantly loved—a chance encounter with a sole meunière did the trick—and that she began to master at the Cordon Bleu cooking school, where she was one of very few women in a world dominated by men.

“Julia” is about many things, the most stirring one—no hint of a pun intended—being an already confident and accomplished woman coming into the fullness of her powers.

In the early days of “The French Chef” at WGBH, the station struggled with primitive equipment, editing facilities were limited and teleprompters were unavailable, so the obligatory format was live on tape, with the tape continuing to run regardless of gaffes. Julia wasn’t just unfazed by these constraints, she flourished within them.

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A dauntless performer from the start, she didn’t give a damn about dropping an occasional poulet on the plancher or dripping sweat into her saucepot. Or slicing a substantial piece of flesh off one of her fingers 10 minutes before airtime, which explained the huge bandage she wore throughout the broadcast.

(Later, on “Saturday Night Live,” Dan Ackroyd did his deathless impersonation of Julia in extremis, her finger spouting blood like a firehose until she slumped, unconscious, over an uncooked chicken. She cherished the Ackroyd bit, a friend tells us, and showed a tape of it at parties.)

“Julia” is very much about performance—how the dry-as-dust medium of educational TV was electrified and transformed by its first pop-culture hit, a middle-aged cooking teacher who taught by entertaining, and who entertained by being true to her marvelously odd self.

Most of all, though, this terrific documentary is about Julia’s manifold loves—of food; of eating, since the one follows the other; of her husband, Paul Child, the scholarly diplomat she adored to the end of his days; of life. Her phenomenally full life fills the film to the brim.

DJ Khaled Is Backing The World’s Most Ambitious Restaurant Launch


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Another Wing will go into business at 150-plus locations worldwide, with delivery to boats by jet ski.

On Nov. 11, DJ Khaled became the co-founder of one of the largest restaurant launches in history.

The Emmy award-winning producer, record executive, and unlikely Snapchat evangelist has partnered with ghost kitchen operator Reef Technology Inc. to create Another Wing.

The delivery-only model is launching simultaneously with more than 150 kitchens in five countries: the U.S., the U.K., Canada, France, and the United Arab Emirates. In North America, it will operate in cities from Atlanta, Houston, and Los Angeles to Toronto and Vancouver.

“It’s the first restaurant concept to ever launch on three continents at the same time, with over 150 locations and growing,” said Khaled via email. He called it “making history in the world of food.”

“Reef and Khaled are both Miami-born and raised with global reach,” explains Alan Philips, Reef’s chief creative officer, about first proposing they team up. “Khaled is a creator—he has tens of millions of followers, billions of streams. We started talking about how we could bring something he loves to his fans.”

To create the concept, a team at Reef went over a list of Khaled’s favorite foods. Those dishes include jerk chicken, fried snapper, and the Middle Eastern rice dish lamb maqluba. “Wings stood out as something that’s universally loved and can be brought to many areas,” says Philips. The all-important branding includes hot pink bags emblazoned with Rolls Royces and palm trees; in Miami, the mode of delivery will also include jet ski.

Starting at $6.95 for a six-piece order, eight flavors will be offered initially, including Honey! Honey! Hot Honey Sriracha and Un Un Un Believable Buffalo. Khaled calls out his favorites as You Loyal! Lemon Pepper and They Don’t Want You to Win Truffalo, which mixes black truffles and spicy buffalo sauce.

The wings will be available bone-in and boneless and are cooked sous vide before being fried, with plant-based options coming in the next two months, says Philips. Sides include jalapeño cheese fries and onion rings plus chocolate chip cookies for dessert.

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Chicken wings are an attractive proposition for virtual brands. It’s Just Wings, the delivery-only concept of Chili’s, was scoring $3 million in weekly sales soon after launching in June 2020. In April, parent company Brinker’s International Inc. said the brand was scheduled to post $150 million in annual sales by the end of the year.

Reef, which runs over 5,000 tech-enhanced parking lots around North America and Europe, is the country’s largest operator of ghost kitchens. It has partnered with other high-profile entities, including MrBeast and Umami Burger; a new deal with Creating Culinary Communities (C3), the Sam Nazarian-backed food platform, will open and operate 800 virtual restaurants by 2025.

Philips declines to comment on details of the Khaled deal or revenue of the privately held company, although says the advantage for celebrities is obvious.

With kitchens located near dense, urban areas in which countless fans reside, Khaled “didn’t have to make a financial investment to get to 150 locations,” says Philips. “The cost to build one of our kitchens is less than the cost to build a full-on retail unit for a pro food brand. You’re not going to open a restaurant for less than half a million dollars, fast food for less than $1.5 to $2 million dollars.”

The celebrity halo is obvious for Reef as well, for many of the same reasons McDonald’s Corp. announced on Wednesday it’s partnering with Mariah Carey for the “Mariah Menu” in December.

“Reef lets creators share food experiences,” says Philips. “There hasn’t been a platform that allows creators in and outside the world of food to get to a lot of people at some sort of mass scale.”

He envisions a world of instant gratification for people who are headed to a DJ Khaled show or just streaming “I’m the One” to satisfy their hunger—and fan impulses—wherever they may be.

As Khaled laid out via email: “We’re going to do it different. Not only do we deliver by land, but we will be delivering by sea, with jet ski’s offering boatside delivery. We’re doing everything new.”

The Best Thanksgiving Pie Recipes And Other Holiday Desserts For 2021

Whether pumpkin or pecan or something other than pie entirely, a dessert for the Thanksgiving table has to truly deliver. From an ambitious caramel-apple pie élevée to a super-simple Key lime mousse you can whip up last-minute, these are recipes we need this year.

IN SOME WAYS, 2021 isn’t so different from 1621, the year of the fabled first Thanksgiving: We come to the table with a craving for some reassuring sweetness as well as a wish to meet the mere fact of persevering with an act of gratitude. As far as I know, no one has come up with a better way to satisfy both impulses than baking a pie.

We’ve rounded up some of our favorite recipes from the past few years, from a classic but impressive sweet-potato pie to a sweet-and-savory apple gouda one. There are ample options, too, for vegan and gluten-free bakers. And if you really want to keep things as easy as possible—with a 15-minute mince pie, for instance, or an elegantly simple French pumpkin custard—not a problem. We’ve got you covered.

Showstopper Recipes

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Some bakers approach Thanksgiving with the same sense of competition the Dallas Cowboys’ QB brings to the field that day.

For these ambitious types we offer recipes for a caramel-apple pie élevée with a magnificent basket-weave crust a full three inches high; a sweet potato pie dolloped with elegant whipped-cream quenelles; a striking chocolate-rye lattice filled with billows of snowy meringue; and a fragrant cranberry-sage pie topped with a starburst crust.

Though a lemon meringue pie is indisputably an American classic, to many it might not sound like the typical Thanksgiving choice, and in this case they’d be right: The recipe, from Angela Scott of Woodruff’s Cafe and Pie Shop in Monroe, Va., is a real standout, crowned with spectacular, perfectly toasted meringue peaks.

There are pumpkin partisans and apple advocates, the holiday’s die-hard classicists. But the Thanksgiving table has always made space for ingredients from a wide range of culinary traditions as well as flavor combinations that reflect the creativity of individual cooks. At Sister Pie, Lisa Ludwinski’s celebrated bakery in Detroit, the apple sage gouda pie boldly blurs the line between sweet and savory.

Bold is the right word, too, for the pop of color and tart flavor that this muhallabiyeh and hibiscus rose tart from chef Reem Kassis brings to a holiday spread. If you like that tangy flavor profile, you might want to try this Appalachian-style vinegar pie, which West Virginia chef Mike Costello garnishes with a salted maple whipped cream.

You’ll also find the irresistible combination of salty and sweet in mazurek, a nutty salted-caramel tart that puts a Slavic spin on the more-expected pecan pie. And this milk chocolate pudding pie with halvah whipped cream offers an elegant update on the crowd-pleasing chocolate-peanut butter combo, with a crust that’s effectively failproof.

And then there are those looking to keep the feast totally low-key and low-effort. The pledge of allegiance never mentions rolling out pie crust. Why not keep things easy and focus on the filling? Pumpkin flamusse, the custardy French dessert laced with dark rum, takes just 40 minutes and zero culinary skill to prepare.

A light, bright Key lime mousse might be all some of us want after several hours of feasting. If apple pie is your thing but, this year, stress and fuss are not, this apple custard crisp should do the trick.

And for those who still want pie but no pressure, these easiest-ever mini mince pies made with frozen puff pastry demand a mere 15-minute commitment from the cook.

Gorgeous Gluten-Free and Vegan Options

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Any gracious host will endeavor to accommodate different dietary restrictions, and we have plenty of recipes designed to take that into account without compromising on flavor or festivity.

This gluten-free warm hazelnut brown butter torte is enough to make anyone at the table weak in the knees, while plant-based eaters and omnivores alike will love these vegan recipes for a dark and stormy crumble, a cornmeal-molasses pudding, a coconut-parsnip tart and a chocolate-swirled pumpkin Bundt cake with molasses glaze.

Subway’s Tuna Isn’t Actually Tuna, Lawsuit Again Alleges

Amended suit claims tuna sampled from sandwich chain has trace amounts of chicken, pork and cattle DNA

Two Californians claim they’ve found something fishy with Subway’s tuna—it doesn’t actually contain tuna, but other fish species.

A new version of a lawsuit originally filed in January alleges that Subway misled the public about its tuna sandwiches and claims that the tuna sampled has trace amounts of chicken, pork and cattle DNA.

In their second amended proposed class-action complaint filed earlier this week in federal court in Northern California, Karen Dhanowa and Nilima Amin claim that out of 20 samples tested, 19 had no detectable tuna DNA sequences.

All 20, the complaint states, had detectable sequences of chicken DNA, 11 samples had detectable pork DNA and seven had detectable cattle DNA. The samples were tested at the Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at the University of California, Los Angeles, the complaint says.

A Subway spokeswoman denied the claims, saying the sandwich shop’s tuna is “high-quality,” “ wild-caught” and “100% tuna.”

“The plaintiffs have filed three meritless complaints, changing their story each time,” the spokeswoman said. She added that the most recent amended complaint was filed only after the prior complaint was dismissed by the judge.

“The fact remains that Subway tuna is real and strictly regulated by the FDA in the U.S., and other government entities around the world,” the Subway spokeswoman said, referring to the Food and Drug Administration.

U.S. District Judge Jon Tigar in the Northern District of California granted Subway’s motion to dismiss the first amended complaint in early October, saying that the plaintiffs were unable to show that they bought the sandwiches due to reading or hearing Subway’s advertising or packaging about tuna.

“Subway cannot properly defend itself against a complaint that does not identify the misstatements it allegedly made,” Judge Tigar wrote in his ruling.

The new lawsuit says one of the plaintiffs, Ms. Amin, bought and ate over 100 tuna sandwiches from Subway between 2013 and 2019. “When reading a menu item identified as being ‘tuna,’ reasonable consumers, including Plaintiff Amin, reasonably believe that the product they are ordering and purchasing will contain only tuna and no other fish species, animal species, or miscellaneous products not otherwise identified in the menu item,” the lawsuit says.

Subway has made an effort to combat the plaintiff’s claims, launching the website, where the opening page says, “Subway tuna is real tuna.”

The original complaint said the sandwiches “lack tuna and are completely bereft of tuna as an ingredient.”

In October of last year, Ireland’s top court said bread at Subway sandwich shops doesn’t meet the legal definition of bread in the country. In response, Subway said that its bread “is, of course, bread.”

Recent lawsuits filed against Kellogg Co. , which makes Pop-Tarts, claim the brand’s strawberry-flavored varieties don’t contain enough actual strawberries relative to other, lesser-known fruit ingredients.

A representative for Kellogg wasn’t immediately available for comment. Kellogg has previously said the company doesn’t comment on pending litigation.


Updated: 11-12-2021

Thanksgiving’s Price Tag Packs On The Pounds

With turkey prices at record highs, the traditional holiday meal will cost you.

American households are about to eat their costliest Thanksgiving dinner ever. That is, if they can find the turkey.

As families tentatively plan to gather again after last season in lockdown, shoppers should expect to pay more for meat and all the trimmings.

Whole frozen turkey prices are up about 20% year on year to an all-time high, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, while retail prices for pie-staples like milk and sugar are at multi-year highs. Even alcohol costs, from beer to cocktails, are climbing as the kickoff to the U.S. holiday season approaches.

“Nothing on that Thanksgiving table is really going to be spared,” said Curt Covington, senior director of institution credit at AgAmerica Lending, which loans money to farmers.

He says families should brace for the meal to be as much as 15% higher than last year, with supermarkets possibly selling out of smaller turkeys and turkey breasts. “You’re already seeing that there’s not going to be the type of bargains that there were in the past.”

America’s Thanksgiving holiday, always the fourth Thursday in November, lands at a time when runaway inflation, mangled supply chains and heightened demand are converging. Food inflation, an issue the world over, has been worsening in the U.S. as a shortage of workers at meatpacking plants and transportation companies leaves grocery shelves looking sparse.

At the same time, costs for farmers including fertilizer, animal feed and fuel are soaring. Taken together, food prices continue to climb, helping to fuel in October the fastest annual growth in U.S. consumer prices since 1990.

Meanwhile, more people will be traveling this year after widespread vaccination efforts in the spring across America, increasing demand for the traditional foods from poultry to potatoes that normally grace Thanksgiving tables.

Throw in gasoline prices, around the highest since 2014, and households are going to feel Thanksgiving’s pinch. Some families, looking to stay within budget, are buying smaller birds, planning fewer side dishes, and doing the unthinkable for this time of year: trying to avoid leftovers.

“Without a doubt, due to the highest inflation in 30 years, the tab for this Thanksgiving dinner will be the highest consumers have seen,” said Daniel Roccato, a financial analyst at Credible, an online marketplace for loans. “It’s going to cost you more to host Thanksgiving and cost your family more to drive there this year.”

A family of four can expect to spend at least $26.57 to put the classic Thanksgiving dinner on the table, up about 10% from 2020, not counting the extra $18 a week drivers are spending at the pump, he calculates.

That estimate was crunched using last year’s American Farm Bureau Federation survey as a starting point, which includes a turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, rolls with butter, peas, cranberries, a veggie tray, pumpkin pie with whipped cream and after-dinner coffee for four at average U.S. prices. Additional sides, appetizers, multiple pies or alcohol — mainstays at many gatherings — are not included.

“Of course, if you’re hosting Thanksgiving in Manhattan, you’re probably going to spend double,” Roccato said. Then there’s the wine and beer. “That would be another $25 per person. And if you’re with your in-laws, it’s probably even more than that.”

With prices rising ahead of the iconic American holiday, some are politicizing the issue. “This will be the most expensive Thanksgiving in the history of the holiday,” Representative Elise Stefanik, a Republican from New York, wrote in a tweet Wednesday. “The American people don’t deserve Biden’s #ThanksgivingTax!”

One key factor behind the higher prices is the Thanksgiving centerpiece: the turkey. According to USDA data, wholesale frozen turkeys weighing 16 pounds or less cost on average $1.41 a pound currently, up 23% year on year. Bigger birds are up about 20% from last year to $1.39 a pound on average.

To be sure, some grocers will actually sell turkeys for less than they paid to attract customers. “That’s something they’re intentionally taking a loss on,” said Grace Grossen, an agricultural economist at the USDA. “They’ll make them really cheap to get people in the door to buy their canned goods and other items.”

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The rising prices are partially because there’s less turkey in cold storage than normal for this time of year, with turkey breast meat in especially low quantities. A lack of labor has made it harder to de-bone, pack and ship poultry at the same time some families are opting for smaller birds or cuts.

Nearly two-thirds of American adults said they would spend Thanksgiving with just their immediate family, according to a Morning Consult survey conducted in October, meaning they don’t need the 20-pounders common for this time of year.

Smaller birds, those in the 10- to 12-pound range, will be in hottest demand, said Bloomberg Intelligence analyst Jennifer Bartashus.

One of those shoppers opting not to buy a whole turkey is Ellen Sheehy, who’s celebrating with just two other people. The 66-year-old will gather with only her sister-in-law and nephew this year because of Covid-19 precautions.

She swapped a full bird for turkey breast in 2020 for the first time, and she’ll do it again this year, she said while shopping for groceries at Target in Manhattan’s Upper East Side neighborhood.

Worried about shortages, many Americans are shopping earlier than normal, stockpiling canned cranberry sauce and stashing birds in the freezer for weeks on end. According to data provider IRI, sales of Thanksgiving items in the three-week period ending Oct. 31 were up 63%, compared to a historical gain of 45% in prior years.

The pickup was mostly driven by turkeys, pie filling, stuffing and stock. Middle- and high-income shoppers are more likely to buy early, with low-income shoppers usually waiting until closer to Thanksgiving to purchase ingredients.

Thanksgiving used to be one of the less-expensive holidays for the average American family that’s on a budget, said AgAmerica’s Covington. “That’s no longer the case,” he said, noting that the problems along the food supply lines are unlikely to abate soon.

“This is going to drag through until Christmas, and possibly until the spring holidays like Easter. The supply chain is not going to get fixed anytime soon.”

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In Fredericksburg, Texas, regenerative farm Roam Ranch is facing rising feed, grain and labor costs for its pasture-raised turkeys. The farm is also having trouble securing enough frozen and refrigerated trucks for shipping as skyrocketing fuel prices and a driver shortage plague the industry.

“Turkey prices for the upcoming Thanksgiving will be significantly higher than previous years,” said Roam’s co-founder Taylor Collins, noting that the ranch is seeing “disturbances in supply chains.”

Not everyone can stomach the higher prices. At the West Alabama Food Bank near Tuscaloosa, families won’t be getting turkeys this year because of the rising cost of food, said Jean Rykaczewski, executive director. The food bank serves about 63,000 people across nine counties in Alabama, funded by donations, some government funding and grants.

“I’m not bringing in turkeys this year. If people want turkeys, they’re going to get whole chickens,” she said. That’s “because one, we can’t afford it. And two, we don’t have anywhere to store it because we’ve filled up everything we have anticipating not being able to get it.”

Yotam Ottolenghi Has Reinvented Mac And Cheese


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In his new cookbook, the culinary leader highlights what the classic “has been missing all along.”

Pasta is a food that makes most people look backward. The best-loved versions are ones made in the past, by someone’s grandmother or great aunt. No one likes to see the words “new” and “improved” in front of “mac and cheese.”

It’s a brave chef that decides to upgrade a classic pasta.

That’s where Yotam Ottolenghi comes in. The revered restaurateur and food writer has a singular way of picking up a treasured dish and seeing an opportunity to insert an unlikely flavor or two without disturbing the food’s integrity.

In his most recent cookbook, Ottolenghi Flavor, the Israeli-born cook and his test-kitchen assistant Ixta Belfrage redefined cacio e pepe by adding a hefty sprinkling of za’atar. The tangy mix of dried herbs and spices, invariably including thyme, oregano, sumac and sesame seeds (recipes vary around the Middle East) is one of the chef’s signature flavorings. The cheesy, buttery pasta instantly became livelier.

“It was a scary point, because it’s a recipe that already works,” said Ottolenghi at the time. “How do you change a perfect dish?”

The question arises again in his new book, Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love. Recipes to Unlock the Secrets of Your Pantry, Fridge and Freezer by Noor Murad and Ottolenghi (Clarkson Potter; $32). In it, the pair take on another classic (many would say perfect) pasta: mac and cheese.

The book, which highlights the behind-the-scenes work at the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, came into focus during the pandemic.

“The first lockdown of 2020 is what sparked the narrative for Shelf Love, where we were all raiding our kitchens to create dishes using humble ingredients but with the wow-factor that we provide,” said Ottolenghi in an email.

The volume comes in soft cover, stocked like a trusty handbook with how-to pictures. It’s divided into the areas of the kitchen we’ve come to know far too well: pantry, refrigerator, and freezer. There are captivating recipes for confit tandoori chickpeas and sweet potato shakshuka with sriracha butter.

But for those of us who are drawn like a magnet to an Ottolenghi pasta recipe, the first order of business is his M.E. (Middle Eastern) mac and cheese with za’atar pesto.

The genius of the recipe starts in Step 1, when the pasta cooks in milk—which becomes the sauce. That trick obviates the need to drain the fusilli and add flour, which can render the dish bland.

The pasta’s starch thickens the milk, and the addition of feta and cheddar enrich it even further. But what really enhances the dish is a cilantro lemon pesto spiked with—you guessed it—za’atar. The spice mix does a heroic job of balancing the richness of the pasta.

Murad, who is half-English and half-Middle Eastern, says there’s always room for classic mac and cheese. But the Middle Eastern flair delivered by the za’atar, feta, cumin, and fried onions that garnish the dish are, for her, “what mac and cheese was missing all along.”

The following recipe is adapted from Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love by Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi.

Testers Note From Ottolenghi: You can make the fried onion or shallot garnish by slicing the alliums, tossing them with cornstarch, and frying them in oil, or you can simply use store-bought fried onions. In addition, the best, most fragrant ground cumin is made by toasting seeds and then grinding them with a mortar, but you can substitute ground cumin.

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M.E. Mac and Cheese with Za’atar Pesto

Serves 4–6

Mac and Cheese

10 1/2 oz (300 gm) dried cavatappi or fusilli pasta, or a comparably sized pasta shape
2 ½ cups whole milk, more if needed
5 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into roughly 1 1/4-inch cubes
3 garlic cloves, minced
⅛ tsp ground turmeric
1½ tsp ground cumin (see tester’s note, above)
5 tbsp heavy cream
1 1/3 cups coarsely grated mature cheddar
6 oz Greek feta, roughly crumbled
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup crispy onions or shallots (see tester’s note, above)

Za’atar Pesto

1 large lemon
3 tbsp za’atar
1 cup chopped cilantro
1 garlic clove, chopped
1/3 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
6 tbsp olive oil

In a large saucepan, combine the pasta, milk, butter, garlic, and turmeric. Add 1½ cups water, 1 teaspoon of salt, and a good grind of pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then turn the heat down to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10–12 minutes, or until the pasta is just al dente and the sauce has thickened from the pasta starches.

(It will still be quite saucy.) If necessary, add a little more milk, depending on how thick you like your mac and cheese. Turn the heat down to low and stir in the cumin, cream, and both cheeses until the cheeses are nicely melted.

Meanwhile, make the pesto. Finely grate the lemon to get 1½ teaspoons of zest. Then use a small, sharp knife to peel the lemon and cut out the segments. Roughly chop the segments and set in a small bowl with the zest.

In a mini processor, combine the za’atar, cilantro, garlic, pine nuts, ⅛ teaspoon of salt, a good grind of pepper, and half the oil. Pulse a few times until you have a coarse paste. Add to the chopped lemon in the bowl and stir in the remaining oil.

Transfer the mac and cheese to a large serving platter with a lip or a shallow bowl, dot all over with the pesto, top with the crispy onions, and serve.


Updated: 11-13-2021

Mondelez Sees Online Snack-Shopping Boom Lasting Beyond Pandemic

Mondelez International Inc., which rode the pandemic snacking boom to boost online sales of cookies and candy, says the retail trend will continue to grow even after mobility restrictions are lifted as people have become accustomed to using their digital devices to shop for food.

Consumers who were stuck at home became more savvy at using e-commerce channels to satisfy their snack cravings, which were a source of comfort as well as a “lifeline during the pandemic,” said Maurizio Brusadelli, executive vice president and president of Asia Pacific, Middle East and Africa.

E-commerce sales for Mondelez — which produces Oreo cookies, Ritz crackers and Cadbury chocolate — jumped by about 30% so far this year in Asia, the Middle East and Africa, and even more in some places, he said in an interview. In China, e-commerce comprised 20% of total sales, helped by partnerships including with TikTok and Alibaba Group Holding Ltd., which gave consumers wider online access to its products.

Growth in digital sales is expected to continue at these levels even as the pandemic wanes, as customers have shifted toward at-home consumption, he said. In China, consumers are using e-commerce platforms to shop for biscuits and gum, Indian consumers sought out chocolate and Australians opted for healthier, low-sugar snacks, both online and in stores.

“People were forced to buy online during the pandemic, and then they continued to buy online,” Brusadelli said.

Pandan Chocolate

Chocolate sales in Asia, especially India and China, will see strong growth in the coming years as consumers become more affluent and average consumption remains “very low” compared to Europe and North America, Brusadelli said. Demand per capita is around 9 kilograms a year in Europe (20 lbs), compared with just 200 grams in India.

“Asia continues to offer significant potential and opportunity for growth. I see a lot of opportunities for chocolate,” he said. Mondelez has the biggest chocolate market share in India, Malaysia and Australia, company data show.

The snack food giant has an 11% share of the global confectionery market, including chocolate, gum and candy, trailing Mars Inc.’s 13.1%, according to Bloomberg Intelligence analyst Jennifer Bartashus.

Its greatest competitive strength is a leading 12% share of the $103 billion global market in sweet biscuits, snack bars and fruit snacks, she said in a report published in March.

Besides tailor-made snacks for Asian tastebuds, such as wasabi-flavored Oreos in China and pandan coconut chocolate in Malaysia, Mondelez is looking to roll out healthier snacking options to meet rising consumer demand, Brusadelli said. The company has already introduced snacks that are portion-controlled, low in calories, sugar-free or vegan.


Updated: 11-15-2021

Is That Kosher? Rabbis Debate Plant-Based ‘Pork’

Fake cheeseburgers are one thing, but ‘Impossible Pork’ was just too much to stomach for one authority.

It might look like pork, smell like pork, even taste like pork—just don’t call it pork.

The arrival of fake, plant-based meat expanded the culinary horizon for many observant Jews in recent years. Faux cheeseburgers were suddenly on the menu at kosher restaurants without breaking the ban on mixing dairy with meat. Chili cheese fries became an option.

Could Impossible Foods Inc.’S Fake Pork Also Get A Kosher Seal Of Approval?

Just the word “pork” was too much to stomach, said Rabbi Menachem Genack, chief executive of the world’s largest kosher certification group, OU Kosher. Its board voted early this year against the company’s kosher-certification request for Impossible Pork.

The prominence of OU Kosher, a division of the Orthodox Union, one of leading organizations of religious American Jewry, makes its rejection one that other kosher certifiers may find hard to ignore. The OU said it might itself revisit the decision in the future.

While many animals are considered not kosher—including many mammals, nearly all bugs, all reptiles, shellfish, and the list goes on—Jews have a particularly fraught relationship with pigs.

The Torah prohibits Jews from eating pigs because they don’t chew their cud, which affects how the animal digests and eats. Some Jewish scholars have surmised the ban is due to the habits of the animal, which will eat practically anything. Other ancient cultures in the Near East, including Islam, refrained from pork for the same reason, historians say.

At various points in history, persecutors ranging from the ancient Greeks and medieval Christians all the way up to the Nazis used pork as a test of sorts for Jews—would they break their law or face death? That’s a difficult association to break, Rabbi Genack said: “People react very strongly to the word ‘pork.’”

Chanie Apfelbaum, a New York kosher food blogger and cookbook author, said she had no problem eating Impossible cheeseburgers, but “I have a hard time getting past the idea of eating something that’s called ‘pork’ and is meant to taste like pork.”

The pork ban has long been a defining pillar for Jewish communities around the world, cementing social ties and fueling Kosher-based economies.

That means the growing popularity of faux meats presents a challenge, said David Zvi Kalman, a scholar in residence and director of new media at the Shalom Hartman Institute of North America in New York, which focuses on Jewish research and education.

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“This is possibly the most important decision for Judaism in the 21st century,” Mr. Kalman said of the OU’s decision regarding Impossible Pork.

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Competitor Beyond Meat Inc. said it has yet to seek kosher certification for its Beyond Pork, which it said was created for the Chinese market and is available only in China so far.

“We’ll have to see how that’s going to play out,” said Chaim Fogleman, communications director at OK Kosher, another U.S.-based kosher certification group, which approved Beyond Meat’s other products. OK Kosher hasn’t been asked to certify Impossible Pork, it said.

Michael Eisenberg, co-founder of the Tel Aviv-based venture-capital firm Aleph, said the faux pork question is an example of the challenge regulators face in using longstanding laws to keep up with technological advances.

Dennis Woodside, president of Impossible Foods, said the company would continue its dialogue with the groups that certify foods as kosher. Though its target market for Impossible Pork is people who already eat pork, he said, the company wants to be “everywhere, in every market globally.”

Rabbi Genack of OU Kosher says he suspects that doubters might one day come around and allow faux pork to be certified as kosher.

“It’s not a halachically based decision….We can review it again,” he said, using the Hebrew term to describe Jewish law. The decision was based on the emotional reaction some kosher eaters have had to kosher-certified pork-related products in the past that also had no actual pork in them.

Islam, too, prohibits pork consumption. Impossible Foods said it also tried to get Impossible Pork certified as halal, or permissible, by the Islamic Food and Nutrition Council of America, but it was rejected there, too. That organization and OU Kosher have both approved the company’s Impossible Burger and Impossible Sausage.

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Timothy M. Hyatt, vice president of Islamic Services of America, a competing U.S. halal certifier, said his corporation made clear to Beyond Meat that nothing identified as pork would be approved as halal, even though that company hasn’t made a formal request.

“We know conceptually that the word ‘pork’ is not halal. ISA always recommends alternative description names such as ‘barbecue flavored’ when the original descriptions might imply something non-halal,” Mr. Hyatt said. ISA does certify Beyond Meat’s faux burgers, sausages and meatballs as halal.

The fake meats haven’t hit the same sensitivity buttons for Hindus, many of whom practice a religiously encouraged, but not obligatory, vegetarian lifestyle. Mat McDermott, senior director of communications at the Hindu American Foundation, said no one at his organization had come across any Hindu who wouldn’t eat these entirely plant-based products.

Rabbi Genack said rabbis are still grappling with how to apply the laws of kosher to lab-grown meat, with beef likely being accepted but pork rejected.

Mr. Hyatt of Islamic Services of America said his organization and other Halal certifiers are likely to reject halal certification for lab-grown meat of any kind. The reason, he said, is that most Islamic scholars view the process as “altering God’s creation at the DNA level.”

Israeli state Kosher authorities haven’t weighed in on the products of Impossible Foods or Beyond Pork, though the OU Kosher and OK Kosher certification would be recognized by the Israeli kosher authorities.

State-backed kosher regulators in Israel recently forced restaurants in Jerusalem to change the word “bacon” on menus to “facon,” for products made of meat but not pork.

Tzvi Maller, owner of Crave, a kosher-certified restaurant, said he had to change references of “lamb bacon” to facon. He said he told the rabbis that many products today made from beef, turkey, lamb and even mushrooms are called bacon, as long as they are thin strips that have undergone the curing and smoking process.

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Mr. Maller said he was keen to point out that Merriam-Webster’s online dictionary supports this wider use of the term, but he was never allowed to present his case.

Jerusalem’s kosher authorities said at the time that they were responding to complaints from peeved customers that something called bacon was being served in restaurants certified as kosher.

Mr. Maller compared the issue to how the cheddar on his steakburgers is actually vegan cheese, and marked as such. “When it says lamb bacon, what would you assume it’s made out of?” he said.

The inspectors weren’t interested, Mr. Maller said.

“Everybody can say ‘no.’ But to be lenient on an opinion takes real wisdom,” he said, alluding to an expression from a Jewish religious text. “They took the easy way.”

Updated: 11-16-2021

Dairy’s Unlikely New Champion Is A Centuries-Old Indian Cheese

A new generation of artisans has put paneer in the spotlight.

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Given the current obsession with plant-based cooking, cheese might seem like a food in decline.

But curd consumption has risen 19% in the past decade, according to recent data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Economic Research Service. It’s the main catalyst of per capita dairy consumption. Last year was great for the dairy case, as sales increased $7 billion from a year earlier to $61 billion, according to Madison, Wis.-based International Dairy Deli Bakery Association.

At Kroger Co., the second-best-selling overall product of 2020 was four-cheese Mexican blend. (Zero-calorie soft drinks were No. 1.)

Now an under-the-radar cheese is making inroads in the U.S., even though it’s been around since the 1500s. Paneer, the firm cheese that’s a staple of Indian menus, is the hero ingredient in the go-to vegetarian dish saag paneer.

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There are several reasons for the groundswell. Paneer is high in protein and fat, which makes it a keto favorite. And because it’s got a high melting point, it keeps its shape when it’s cooked, making it a good candidate for center-of-the-plate vegetarian dishes.

Unlike many faux-meat options, however, paneer is clean-label, meaning it’s made with minimal ingredients.

There’s also increased culinary interest in its place of origin. Searches for “Indian restaurants near me” rose 350% last year on Google Trends. “Paneer maker” was up 140%.

“Indian cuisine has grown in popularity, and people have become more interested in learning to make it at home,” says Joey Wells, global senior principal for product development at Whole Foods Market Inc. Paneer sales are up, he adds: “We continue to see growth in the category overall.”

Unlike the case of another breakout cheese, halloumi, which had an entire country—Cyprus—propelling it forward, the rise of paneer has been pushed by a couple of artisans on the East and West coasts.

In New York City, the stellar version made by Unapologetic Foods chef Chintan Pandya has raised the cheese’s profile exponentially.

“The higher the fat, the better the paneer,” says Pandya, who uses a blend of milk and cream from a dairy upstate to make his light and incomprehensibly pillowy product. It took more than a year for him to create a viable version. (Supply chain issues contributed to the delay.) Now it’s a top seller at his Lower East Side restaurant, Dhamaka, where it’s grilled and topped with garam masala.

“A lot of people ask us what’s different,” Pandya says. “It’s just that we invest time and money in it.” In fact he invests so much time that, from a cost perspective, it’s on par with the amount he spends on lamb and goat.

Chefs across the U.S. have become inspired. At Ghee in Miami, Niven Patel smokes the cheese and serves it with charred corn. Paneer pies are a popular option at Chicago’s Pizza With a Twist, which has locations around the country. At a recent pop-up dinner, Contra chef Fabián Von Hauske Valtierra bathed Pandya’s paneer in a wine sauce and served it with caviar. “It’s like a fresh cheese,” Valtierra says.

At Aurum in Los Altos, Calif., Manish Tyagi reimagines classic palak paneer as lasagna, using slices of the cheese in place of pasta. Between the layers are sautéed spinach, ground paneer, cumin, and fenugreek leaf powder. It’s baked with shredded mozzarella and served with tomato sauce.

In the San Francisco Bay Area,

In the San Francisco Bay Area, two former tech employees, Jasleen and Tarush Agarwal, have also done plenty to boost paneer’s profile. In 2019 the married couple, who worked at Facebook and the children’s platform Toca Boca, started Sach Foods, which specializes in small-batch paneer, made with organic grass-fed milk from Holstein cows.

Their product has a creamy texture that stands out from most rubbery commercial versions. Retailing for $8 for a 6-ounce package—in flavors ranging from plain to turmeric twist to spicy habanero—it’s now on shelves at about 200 Whole Foods and 140 Safeway stores, as well as specialty food stores.

Bay Area-based grocer Good Eggs has seen a fourfold increase in sales since launching the product in late 2019. Meherwan Irani, who owns Chai Pani in Asheville, N.C., switched to Sach paneer in 2021; since then, sales of his paneer tikka roll, made with yogurt marinated cheese that’s char-grilled and served in buttered naan, have increased more than 30%.

“Our growth is unique in the cheese world, especially during a global pandemic, when the normal ways of selling to new accounts don’t apply,” Tarush says.

As grocery store sales remain strong, the Agarwals are doing research and development on a second paneer-related product. They’re also ramping up production to five days a week—from two to three days—to start serving 1,000 stores in the first quarter of 2022.

Donna Berry, a former Kraft Heinz Co. scientist who’s now a dairy industry consultant, says sales of paneer can continue rising along with awareness, as in-store tastings and other events return. “It’s products like paneer that keep consumers interested in dairy,” she says. “Cheesemakers have upped their game to be competitive with plant-based innovators.”

Berry spotlights paneer as dairy’s best alternative to challenge tofu, the mainstay of vegan meals. “With more households going flexitarian,” she says, “paneer has an opportunity to shine.”

Thanksgiving Is On, And So Is The Hunt For Ingredients

Consumers are planning bigger gatherings after last year’s scaled-back celebrations; grocery chains are stocking up on holiday staples.

Bigger Thanksgiving gatherings mean bigger meals—and fuller shopping carts are putting supermarkets to the test, as many of them are still struggling to fill shelves and staff stores.

Grocery chains said they have been overstocking holiday-meal staples like spices and pumpkin-pie mixes, and preparing more cooked dishes. While some consumers have been shopping earlier and buying more food ahead of Thanksgiving, executives said higher demand and supply-chain problems mean that some shoppers might not find the exact size or flavor of every item they want.

“It’s already exceeding what we had expected and planned for,” said Nicholas Bertram, chief executive officer of Giant Co. The grocer, based in Carlisle, Pa., began selling holiday items earlier and has been ordering additional inventory of turkey breast and other types of meat, anticipating bigger Thanksgiving get-togethers this year, after escalating Covid-19 cases kept some consumers from gathering in 2020.

To avoid running empty, supermarket companies began purchasing holiday staples earlier than usual and from a larger range of brands, and stationed the inventory in their warehouses. Giant bought trailers of potatoes and turkeys small and large, in addition to turkey breasts, Mr. Bertram said. The chain also introduced a catalog of prepared meals including hors d’oeuvres, designed for entertaining.

Albertsons, based in Boise, Idaho, said it has been working closely with suppliers ahead of Thanksgiving. While some products may be constrained, the grocery chain said it is working to offer alternatives and quickly fill holes on shelves. Hy-Vee Inc., of West Des Moines, Iowa, said customers in its stores throughout the Midwest have been shopping earlier and going back to bigger sizes of turkey and other items after purchasing smaller quantities last year.

Still, some supermarket operators said supplies of holiday foods such as pie crust and cream cheese are tight, and high demand will make it harder to keep shelves stocked. Retail sales volumes for Thanksgiving staples like stuffing mix and cranberry sauce for the week ended Nov. 7 were 4% higher than the same period a year ago, according to market research firm IRI.

A November survey of nearly 900 consumers by KPMG LLP found they are planning to hold larger Thanksgiving celebrations this year. About 36% of respondents said they planned to host or attend gatherings of 10 or more people, up from 19% in 2020 and near 40% in 2019.

Alex Hart, who lives in Shoreline, Wash., plans to host a close friend’s family for Thanksgiving this year. A self-proclaimed foodie, Ms. Hart came up with a menu of turkey, roasted Brussels sprouts and homemade cornbread stuffing.

“We are going back to the way things were before, which is nice,” said Ms. Hart, who spent Thanksgiving last year with only her immediate family of three, because of coronavirus concerns.

Ms. Hart said she ordered turkey two months ago, and bought alcohol and pecans that she will roast with maple syrup for pecan pie. She said she plans to finish shopping this weekend.

Analysts are anticipating strong consumer spending over the holidays to boost quarterly sales for food sellers including BJ’s Wholesale Club Holdings Inc. and Target Corp. Retailers are recording sales growth of more than 10% versus pre-pandemic days, according to J.P. Morgan and NielsenIQ data, as people continue eating at home more and companies raise prices, citing higher costs.

The Chicago-based chain Go Grocer is expecting sales to increase from a year ago as customers buy more wine, pie and dessert for parties they plan to attend, said CEO Paul Stellatos.

“People are branching off and having multiple small parties,” he said, adding that his company has secured extra inventory of stuffing, cranberries and some pumpkin products.

Supermarkets are working to handle higher volumes of inventory and shoppers as they fight persisting labor challenges. Many chains expect employees to work overtime in coming days, and some are training staff across various departments in anticipation of tight staffing.

Walmart Inc., WMT 0.71% the nation’s biggest grocery seller, said on a recent earnings call that it has hired more than 200,000 new employees ahead of the holiday season. Target has said it is hiring 100,000 seasonal workers and is offering more pay and flexible hours to existing workers.

Colorado-based Choice Market Inc. is closing earlier on Thanksgiving this year partly because of labor issues, and will instead try to increase staffing on Tuesday and Wednesday, said CEO Mike Fogarty.

“In anticipation of uncertainty, this year we made the [closing] decision quite early,” he said.

Updated: 11-19-2021

One Quebec Cartel Calls The Shots For The World’s Maple Syrup Production

The next time you pour a stream of golden-hued maple syrup over your pancakes consider this: odds are it was sold by a Canadian group that acts as the de facto cartel for the sticky stuff. The Quebec Maple Syrup Producers controls output and sets prices for most of global production, and even stockpiles unsold syrup in a strategic reserve it can tap in lean harvest years.

1. Who Controls Maple Syrup?

Quebec is the world’s largest producer of maple syrup, accounting for more than 70% of global output. Farmers selling containers of 5 liters (1.3 gallons) or less to a grocery store or restaurant need to have a production quota from the government-sanctioned agency formerly known as the Federation. All bulk sales above 5 liters are sold to the agency or authorized buyer and farmers must have a quota.

2. Why Is There A Strategic Reserve?

The time frame for maple syrup production is short and highly dependent on weather since tree sap is only able to flow when daytime temperatures alternate between freezing and thawing. To stabilize supply and prices, the Quebec agency set up a reserve in Laurierville, Quebec in 2000, a warehouse that covers the equivalent of five football fields and stores syrup in barrels. It was the scene of a notorious syrup heist uncovered in 2012.

3. Is There Any Pushback Against This System?

The agency has brought price stability for farmers, but producers have expressed frustration with the tight controls in recent years as U.S. production expanded at a faster rate. The agency has sought to boost production limits in response and to quell black market sales.

This Vegan Chef Has Been Hoisted With His Own Canard

Eleven Madison Park’s Daniel Humm wanted to make a U.K. dining destination meat-free. Claridge’s wisely sided with its omnivore clientele, and kept the lavender-glazed duck on the menu.

Society owes a debt of gratitude to those who protect a work of genius, even if only from the genius who created it. Please join me in three huzzahs for the owners of Claridge’s hotel in London, who have just saved Chef Daniel Humm’s lavender-glazed duck from his newfound vegan fixation.

The hotel, a grand old pile in London’s posh Mayfair neighborhood, has turned down the chef’s proposal to convert its Davies and Brook restaurant, run by Humm for the past two years, into a vegan-only eatery along the lines of his New York flagship Eleven Madison Park.

I say proposal, but it appears to have been more of an ultimatum, since the chef has announced he will leave Claridge’s at the end of the year. He is said to be seeking another London outlet for the kind of plant-based fine dining for which vegan or vegan-curious patrons pay $335 a pop at Eleven Madison Park.

Some might see Humm’s decision as an act of gastronomic valor: A risk-taking chef demonstrates the courage of his convictions. In a statement, Humm declared, “The future for me is plant-based… Standing behind this mission, and what we believe in, is most important and is unfortunately not something we can compromise on.”

But if anything, the bravery is on the other side. Claridge’s is gambling by forsaking the star power Humm brought to its kitchen in 2019, only two years after Eleven Madison Park had been ranked the world’s best restaurant. (It had been among the top five for six years running.) Finding a replacement of his luster will be all but impossible.

Rather than indulge Humm, as hoteliers are often forced to do with superstar chefs, Claridge’s chose to side with its clientele, which has embraced David and Brook’s carnivorous offerings. These include roast venison, grilled monkfish and poussin stuffed with black truffles. But the pride of place goes to Humm’s celebrated duck, dry-aged and glazed with lavender and honey, and served with a confit of pear.

This was one of his original masterpieces at Eleven Madison Park, and its arrival on the other side of the Atlantic was greeted with hearty hosannas by London’s gastronomes. One restaurant reviewer was moved to exclaim, “Oh my.”

Loyal patrons of Eleven Madison Park might have responded “Oh no!” when Humm decided to scrap the duck, along with all other animal-based products, from the New York restaurant’s menu this summer.

This required Humm to affect distaste for the ingredients that had been restaurant staples until then. “All the caviar that you find now, it’s farm-raised, they sell it at the airport. Is that truly luxury?” he said to my Bloomberg colleague Kate Krader. “Kobe beef flown in from Japan? That’s not luxury. It’s gluttony.”

The new Humm definition of luxury embraces beets, eggplant and a Chinese lettuce called celtuce. As a committed carnivore, I’m probably not in his targeted demographic, but the reviews have been mixed. Krader commends “the precision, nuance, and, especially the labor-intensiveness of the new menu.” Others sniff that Humm’s vegetables are all pretending to be meat or fish and note that none of it is especially innovative. This last is an especially deep diss for a chef with his record of culinary creativity.

But perhaps most damning still is the revelation that, even as he has been preaching the vegan gospel, Humm also has been serving carcass-based fare in a private room at Eleven Madison Park. A seven-course meal runs to $285 and can include beef, chicken, lobster and scallops, but, alas, no duck.

So it turns out that Humm can compromise on his “mission.” Perhaps a solution would have been to reverse the Eleven Madison Park polarity at Davies and Brook: A regular menu in the main hall, and a secret vegan repast in a private room.

Happily for Londoners who are so inclined, there are plenty of other places where they can get a pricey plant-based meal, prepared by chefs whose commitment to sustainable food production is more consistent. The highly regarded Gauthier Soho, for instance, does a prix fixe menu for 75 pounds (about $100) that, my vegan friends assure me, is an absolute treat.

Meanwhile, the lavender-glazed duck remains available at Claridge’s. Go get some, to honor the memory of the chef Humm used to be — and to thank those who are preserving it.


Updated: 11-22-2021

Buttermilk Pie Recipes To Satisfy Everyone This Thanksgiving


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The custardy filling is always a crowd-pleaser. But these three delicious variations on the classic—cardamom-spiced, whiskey-spiked and layered with roasted pears—really showcase the adaptability that makes buttermilk pie a baker’s favorite.

IN THE HANDS OF Gabrielle E.W. Carter, a slice of buttermilk pie is more than dessert.

On her family’s Eastern North Carolina homestead, Ms. Carter sees cooking as cultural preservation—of her family’s traditions and those of the Black diaspora. “It was really about honoring and preserving ingredients from my grandfather’s backyard garden,” she said, via email, of her coral-hued smoked-cantaloupe buttermilk pie.

“He grows cantaloupe every year, and this year I gifted him a plant I started and didn’t have room for. He didn’t love how small they turned out, but he shared some with me.” She smoked the melons over applewood and roasted them until they were candied. Finally she blended them into a buttermilk base with some smoked salt and nutmeg, and she baked that in a cornmeal crust. “Buttermilk pie is love,” she explained, “so I figured I’d start there.”

Buttermilk pie is also an American classic. The recipe emerged in the South and has been passed along from one generation to the next for at least two centuries.

At Savannah’s Back in the Day Bakery, Cheryl Day expressed her own deep affection for buttermilk. “It’s like a magical secret ingredient, really,” she said. “I love the fact that it tenderizes things—cakes, or even if you’re making chicken or some kind of protein.” Ms. Day mixes buttermilk into crème fraîche, whipped cream and custards, even into fudge.

The burst of acid and the salty flavor it brings to its namesake pie are relatively rare, she’s found, among heritage desserts. Her new cookbook, “Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking,” includes her recipe for Golden Buttermilk Chess Pie.

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That name is a bit of an oxymoron, according to Nancie McDermott, author of “Southern Pies.” While many people confuse chess and buttermilk pies, Ms. McDermott draws a hard line between them. “I’m going to come in hot on that one,” she said.

“Buttermilk pie falls squarely into the category of custard pie, and chess pie doesn’t qualify as a custard because [though] it’s made with eggs and butter and sugar—and lots of them—[it has] no milk.”

Whatever denomination it belongs to, a classic buttermilk pie uses full-fat buttermilk. That’s what goes into Ms. Day’s pie and also those at Milk Glass Pie, which food writer Keia Mastrianni operates on the farm she calls home in Cleveland County, N.C.

While both of those bakers source it through local farmers, the full-fat variety is not so easy to find in supermarkets around the country. Ms. McDermott savors the memory of the fresh buttermilk that came from the cows on her maternal grandparents’ North Carolina dairy farm, and she believes the full-fat kind makes a better pie, yet she finds that the low-fat alternative does a worthy job.

In her own pies, Ms. Mastrianni likes to use seasonal ingredients in ways that are not necessarily traditional. She described a “jammy peach thing,” the result of cooking peaches down in their syrup, which she dropped into a lemon-infused buttermilk custard so “there’s just like these pops of tart, sweet peach.” She also mentioned some foraged black walnuts she ground and incorporated into a buttermilk-pie base.

Seeing what a great canvas for experimentation buttermilk pie is, I asked the authors of three of my favorite cookbooks of the year to come up with recipes of their own.

“I’ve never had a pie like this before,” said Australian blogger Thalia Ho, author of “Wild Sweetness.” She looked to British custard tarts to develop her recipe, which is extra-custardy thanks to a generous pour of heavy cream that she infuses with smoky, woodsy black cardamom.

As a child in Costa Rica, Roxana Jullapat, author of “Mother Grains,” loved full-fat buttermilk. But the owner of Friends & Family Bakery in Los Angeles said buttermilk pie wasn’t really on her radar until she read fellow baker Lisa Donovan’s account of preparing it in her 2019 memoir, “Our Lady of Perpetual Hunger.”

Ms. Jullapat came up with a crust that uses heirloom whole-grain wheat flour. She adds caramelized pears before pouring on a custard spiced with garam masala and thickened with a little cornmeal.

Similar to the other two authors, Canadian Camilla Wynne, the pastry chef behind “Jam Bake,” said she didn’t have a deep relationship with buttermilk pie when I reached out to her. Hers introduces rye, twice over: in the flour for the crust and in the whiskey that spikes the custard. The fresh raspberries Ms. Wynne arranges on top, licked with some raspberry jam, pick up on the buttermilk’s tang.

Any of these buttermilk pies would make a fine finish for a holiday meal. Beyond that, think of them as jumping-off points for your own experimentation.

Black Cardamom Buttermilk Pie

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Thalia Ho uses a single ingredient to transform buttermilk pie and give it some mystery: black cardamom. It may not have the familiarity of vanilla, but it brings a darker, deeper, more savory and complex flavor, and people who taste it may not be able to put their finger on it. But they’ll be in its thrall.

Total Time: 4 Hours 30 Minutes(Plus Overnight Chilling)

Makes: 1 (9-Inch) Pie


* For The Crust:
* 3 Tablespoons Ice Water
* 2 Teaspoons Apple Cider Vinegar
* 1 ⅓ Cups Plus 1 Teaspoon All-Purpose Flour
* ¼ Teaspoon Of Salt
* ½ Cup (1 Stick) Cold Unsalted Butter, Cut Into ½-Inch Cubes
* 1 Egg White, Lightly Beaten, For Egg Wash (Reserve Yolk For Filling)

* For The Filling:
* 3 Black Cardamom Pods, Plus 1 For Finishing
* ¾ Cup Heavy Cream
* ¾ Cup Granulated Sugar
* 2½ Tablespoons All-Purpose Flour
* 3 Extra-Large Eggs, Plus 1 Extra-Large Egg Yolk
* ¼ Cup Plus 1 Tablespoon Unsalted Butter, Melted And Cooled
* 1 Cup Buttermilk


1. Make the dough: Combine ice water and vinegar in a small bowl. Refrigerate to keep cold while you work the dough.

2. In a large mixing bowl, combine flour and salt, then add butter and toss to coat. With a pastry blender or metal spatula, cut butter into flour until it is in mostly pea-size pieces. (A few stray larger chunks are fine.) Sprinkle on a little of the ice water-vinegar mixture and use a wooden spoon to mix until just incorporated, then add a little more, mixing as you go each time, until the dough starts to come together into a ball. (You might not need all the liquid.)

3. Gather dough with your hands and shape into a disc, incorporating any remaining dry-flaky bits. Cover with plastic wrap. Chill at least 1 hour, preferably overnight.

4. Pre-bake the crust: Set dough on a lightly floured work surface and flour the top. Use a rolling pin to roll out dough into a rough 12-inch circle about ⅛-inch thick. Carefully transfer dough circle to a 9-inch pie dish, using your fingers to help ease it into the bottom and up the sides. Fold overhang over itself, then crimp edges to seal. Transfer to freezer.

5. Meanwhile, set a rack in oven’s center position and preheat to 425 degrees.

6. Line frozen pie shell with two layers of aluminium foil or parchment, pushing liner up against the sides, and fill it with a handful of pie weights or beans, concentrating dispersion mostly around the edges. Set on a baking sheet.

7. Bake until rims of edges are just starting to turn golden, 12-15 minutes, then remove foil and weights. Let cool a few minutes. Use a pastry brush to glaze crust with egg-white wash. Return to oven and continue to bake until golden brown and cooked through (with no patches of raw dough), 8-10 minutes more. Let cool completely while you make the buttermilk filling.

8. Make the filling: Use a mortar and pestle to crack open black cardamom pods. Crush seeds to a near-fine grind, then tip everything into a medium saucepan along with the pods. Add cream and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Remove from heat and let infuse for a half hour.

9. Meanwhile, set a rack in oven’s center position and preheat to 325 degrees.

10. In a large mixing bowl, combine sugar and flour. Whisk in eggs, yolk, butter and buttermilk until smooth. Use a fine-mesh sieve to strain infused cream into bowl with other ingredients, pressing on cardamom pods with a spoon to push out any residual juices. Discard pods. Whisk filling again to combine and strain into pie shell until near-full to top.

11. Bake, rotating halfway through, until just set, 45-55 minutes. The pie is done when the edges are puffed but the center still has a bit of wobble to it. If you’re unsure, it’s best to err on the side of caution as the filling will continue to cook once removed from oven.

12. Set on a wire rack and let cool to room temperature, up to 2 hours. While pie cools, crush seeds of the remaining black cardamom pod. When you’re ready to serve, sprinkle top of pie with a pinch more spice. A spoonful of crème fraiche on top of a slice or on the side makes a nice accompaniment. Wrapped in plastic, this pie can be left out at room temperature overnight and enjoyed the following day, or else refrigerated for 3 days.


Raspberry Rye Buttermilk Pie

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This Pie Has Rye Flour In The Crust And Rye Whiskey In Its Rich Custard Filling.
Total Time: 5 Hours (Includes Chilling)
Serves: 1 (9-Inch) Pie


* For The Crust:
* 1 Cup All-Purpose Flour
* ½ Cup Whole Rye Flour
* 2 Teaspoons Sugar
* ½ Teaspoon Salt
* 9 Tablespoons Cold Unsalted Butter, Cubed
* 4 Tablespoons (¼ Cup) Cold Buttermilk (Preferably Full Fat)

* For The Filling:
* 3 Eggs
* 1 Cup Sugar
* 3 Tablespoons All-Purpose Flour
* 1 Cup Buttermilk (Preferably Full Fat)
* 8 Tablespoons (1 Stick) Salted Butter, Melted And Cooled
* 3 Tablespoons Rye Whisky

* To Finish:
* 2-4 Cups Fresh Raspberries
* 3 Tablespoons Seedless Raspberry Jam


1. Make the dough: Use an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment to mix together flour, sugar, salt and unsalted butter on medium-low speed until butter is variously the size of olives and peas. If necessary, stop mixer and squish any larger pieces between your thumb and forefinger. With mixer running at lowest speed, add buttermilk and let mixer run until a dough forms. Press dough into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm enough to roll out, 30 minutes-1 hour.

2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees and grease a 9-inch pie plate with butter. Roll out chilled dough on a lightly floured surface.

3. Line pie plate with dough, snuggling into sides of the pan. Trim overhang to about 2 inches, then fold under and crimp edges. Freeze for 15 minutes.

4. Pre-bake the crust: Dock dough by piercing it repeatedly with a fork all over the bottom and sides. Line pie shell with parchment paper or aluminum foil, then fill to the top with pie weights or dried beans. Place on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Carefully remove parchment and pie weights, and continue to bake until fully cooked (with no raw patches of dough) but not fully browned, 5 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack while you prepare the filling.

5. Make the filling: Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs with sugar and flour. Whisk in buttermilk, followed by salted butter and whiskey.

6. Pour filling into crust. Bake until filling is set and just slightly jiggly in center, about 45 minutes, checking at 30. Let cool completely on a wire rack, 1-2 hours.

7. To finish: Arrange raspberries over surface of pie, in concentric circles or in a tumbled heap, according to your proclivities. Melt jam in a small pot over medium-low heat. Brush melted jam over raspberries. Wrapped in plastic, this pie can be left out at room temperature overnight and enjoyed the following day, or else refrigerated for 3 days.

Buttermilk Pie With Roasted Pears And A Hint Of Garam Masala

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It’s fitting that the author of a cookbook about baking with heirloom grains should choose one for the crust in her buttermilk pie, and it’s a crust you can use again and again. Sonora flour is available for purchase online from and, but you can also replace it with 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour. The candied pears hidden beneath the custard and the warming spice are the driving forces here.

Total Time: 3 Hours 45 Minutes
Makes: 1 (9-Inch) Pie


* For The Crust:
* 1 Cup Plus 2 Tablespoons Heirloom Wheat Flour Such As Sonora Wheat
* ½ Teaspoon Fine Sea Salt
* 1 Tablespoon Granulated Sugar
* 10 Tablespoons (1¼ Sticks) Cold Unsalted Butter, Cut Into ¼-Inch Cubes
* 6 Tablespoons Cold Buttermilk

* For The Roasted Pears:
* 3 Medium Pears, Peeled And Cut Into Wedges, Cores Trimmed
* 1 Tablespoon Sugar
* 2 Tablespoons Melted Unsalted Butter (From 2½ Tablespoons Solid)
* 1 Tablespoon Dark Rum

* For The Buttermilk Filling:
* ⅔ Cup Sugar Plus More For Dusting (Up To 2 Tablespoons)
* ¼ Cup All-Purpose Flour
* ¼ Cup Fine Yellow Cornmeal
* ¼ Teaspoon Kosher Salt
* ¼ Teaspoon Garam Masala
* 3 Large Eggs
* 3 Tablespoons Lemon Juice
* 1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract
* ¼ Cup Melted Unsalted Butter (From ½ Stick Solid)
* 1 Cup Buttermilk


1. Make the dough: In a medium bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Toss in butter to coat. Quickly cut butter into dry ingredients by pinching cubes with your fingertips until mixture resembles a coarse meal with flakes the size of corn flakes and pebbles the size of hazelnuts. Make a well in center and pour in buttermilk. Mix gently with your hands to form a raggedy dough. (Alternatively, you can mix pie dough in a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Put cold butter cubes, flour, sugar and salt in mixer bowl. Mix until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Add buttermilk and mix on low speed until dough comes together.) Transfer dough to a floured surface and knead briefly into a ball. (Don’t worry if bits of butter are still visible. This means the dough isn’t overworked.) Shape into a disk and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days.

2. Grease a 9-inch pie pan. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll out on a lightly floured surface, forming a circle about 11 inches in diameter. Pick up dough by rolling it onto rolling pin, and lay it into pie pan. Gently press dough into bottom and sides of pan, leaving a lip on the edge. Trim any excess dough with kitchen scissors, leaving 1 inch of dough hanging from edge of pie pan. Gather dough to form a border along edge of pan. Crimp border by pinching dough with your fingertips, forming small consecutive triangles along edge. Refrigerate shaped pie crust for 20 minutes. (Chilling prevents dough from shrinking.)

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place pie pan on a baking sheet. Coat surface of pie crust lightly with nonstick spray and line crust with parchment. Fill crust three-quarters of the way with dried beans or pie weights. Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate baking sheet and bake 20 minutes more. To check whether crust is ready, carefully lift a section of parchment and see if bottom is golden. Let cool at least 1 hour before removing parchment paper and pie weights.

4. Roast the pears: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and place a rack in middle position. Arrange pear wedges in a single layer in a non-reactive roasting pan such as a Pyrex casserole dish. Drizzle with butter, sugar and rum. Roast for or until pears start to caramelize, 20-25 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely while you make the buttermilk filling.

5. Make the buttermilk filling: Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees. In a medium mixing bowl, combine sugar, flour, cornmeal, salt and garam masala. Whisk in eggs, lemon juice, vanilla and melted butter to form a uniform thick mixture. Finally, stir in buttermilk.

6. Place baked pie crust on a baking sheet. Arrange roasted pears in bottom of baked piecrust. Cover with buttermilk filling and dust top generously with sugar. Bake until completely set, about 40 minutes. Let cool completely on a baking rack before slicing. Wrapped in plastic, this pie can be left out at room temperature overnight and enjoyed the following day, or else refrigerated for 3 days.

Updated: 11-23-2021

Thanksgiving In New Orleans Follows Traditions All Its Own

The past year and half may not have actually been easy in the Big Easy, but the sense of community it reinforced—and the food that feeds it—gets to the heart of what the holiday is all about.

New Orleans locals refuse to let anything so much as supply chain snarls or a natural disaster ruin their good time. That’s because the city has always done its own thing on Thanksgiving. If residents follow rules, they are ones practiced by families for generations.

If ovens don’t work as a result of lingering damage from Hurricane Ida, mac and cheese gets cooked at a neighbors. If turkeys are hard to find, they roast a duck, or a chicken (although they probably want it all, in the shape of a turducken.) Dishes reflect family heritage more than national Turkey Day traditions.

“My Thanksgiving isn’t going to change,” says Titus Perkins, executive kitchen manager for Ralph Brennan’s Restaurant Group. His holiday tradition is to cook dinner for the 80-odd people in his vast restaurant family. “Things like a hurricane, they bring families closer together.”

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Touré Folkes, founder of local nonprofit Turning Tables, admits that when he first moved to the city, “Thanksgiving is a holiday that I didn’t get.” Then, he discovered, “New Orleans is about community; it’s common to go to different people’s houses. It’s different than New York, where you go to one person’s house.”

Folkes starts Thanksgiving with one of the city’s time-honored customs, a trip to the Fair Grounds Race Course for opening day. There, dressed-up locals gather, nominally to watch the horses fly around the track. They’re really there to socialize, cocktails in hand, before they go dancing around town to various house parties. “It’s a day you get a real sense of the New Orleans community at its finest. People get dressed up and eat together, they drink together. It’s an all-around vibe,” says Folkes.

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“In New Orleans, we are rule breakers, and that’s not going to change,” adds chef Melissa Araujo, who runs the inviting Honduran restaurant, Alma. “We beat our own drum”
—and deliciously so.

Read on for how Araujo and Folkes and other New Orleans locals in the restaurant world turn even the most sanctified of American holidays into a celebration with food and traditions all their own.

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Erik Veney, Executive Chef At Muriel’s Jackson Square

Dishes: Crusted salmon and oyster dressing

“Growing up in New York, Thanksgiving was a family meal around the table—after we watched some football. Down here, people go to the racetrack, then there are a lot of pot luck meals where you bring a dish,” says Veney, who moved to New Orleans 25 years ago after graduating from Johnson & Wales in Providence, R.I. He now runs the kitchen at Muriel’s, a time-honored dining room that specializes in Creole cooking in the epicenter of the French Quarter.

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“The tradition of family gathering is big, maybe even more so than up North,” he continues. But people have their own dishes, he says. “They aren’t tied down to classics. I’ve been to gumbo Thanksgivings.”

“One of the staples of my Thanksgiving dinner now is oyster dressing,” he says. “It’s a Louisiana thing. I did not grow up with it, but my daughters make a yearly request for it.”

Another dish, which he also serves at Muriel’s, started as a play on a green bean casserole: “It’s an onion-crusted salmon with roasted onion puree and panko bread crumbs (to up the onion flavor), on a wild mushroom cream sauce with sautéed baby green beans. I’m surprised at how well it sells.”

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Yolanda Reese, Founder of Tinis & Paninis

Dishes: Deconstructed Mac And Cheese, Martinis, Thai Curry Roast Pork, And Peach Cobbler

On the way to starting her business in late 2018—a pop-up pairing martinis with paninis, and now a line of salad dressings, pestos, and spice blends—Reese worked at the local Hancock Whitney Bank, joined the Army, and was a respiratory therapist. Thanksgiving feast maker came about after her mom “passed the baton.”

“Now me and my sisters cook while she directs us,” Reese laughs. “It’s a little old-school, a little new school. We always make peach cobbler—my mom’s trick is to pour boiling water to make it crispy—although it looks like you’re messing it up.”


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“We do her take on things, and then I do mine,” Reese continues, “so there are two mac and cheeses, two roasts, and so on.”

In the new school category, along with a Thai curry pork, is a dish Reese concocted when her niece decided to become vegan.

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“I made a roasted red pepper sauce, then she needed something to eat with that, so I made it into a deconstructed mac and cheese,” says Reese. “She loved it. She’s no longer vegan, but my family loves it, so we stuck with it.”

Another new tradition: “The day after, when my sisters and I gather to finish cleaning, I make paninis with basil walnut pesto and mozzarella. It’s part of our twist on Thanksgiving.”

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Nina Compton, Chef And Owner of Compère Lapin

Dishes: Mojo-Fried Turkey, Coconut Braised Collards, And Jerk Sweet Potatoes 

Born in St. Lucia, Nina Compton didn’t grow up celebrating Thanksgiving; Christmas was her big holiday. But she’s been experimenting with foods that are staples of many a Big Easy table, including fried turkey and sweet potatoes. She puts her own spin on them, like adding jerk seasoning to the carbs and marinating the centerpiece turkey in a homemade Caribbean citrus mojo.

“The tangy cumin notes add something special to the fried bird, and it feels familiar to me,” she says, a little spicy with nice, crispy skin.

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“I like to play with Thanksgiving dishes, make them fun, a little different,” continues Compton, who rose to fame on Top Chef and whose Warehouse District restaurant, Compère Lapin, has been a force in the local dining scene since it opened in 2015.

Even seminal New Orleans restaurant Dooky Chase has fallen under the spell of her collard greens, which are slowly cooked down in coconut milk with paprika and cayenne.

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As she tells it, having become close with “Ms. Leah” before she passed, Compton recently did a partnership with the restaurant.

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Elisha Snead, Line Cook At The Peacock Room

Dish: Stuffed Mirlitons

“Hands down, my favorite Thanksgiving dish is stuffed mirlitons. The taste of seafood with the sweet stuffing is just delicious,” declares Snead, who cooks elevated classics at the Hotel Fontenot’s Peacock Room. The bright green, pear-shaped vegetable, also known as chayote, is renowned in New Orleans as the vehicle for a carby mix of celery, onions, breadcrumbs, Gulf shrimp, and lump crabmeat.

“When I gave her grandson Edgar, who is now the chef, the recipe for the collard greens, he said, ‘I might steal this recipe,’” she recalls. “I couldn’t believe it. These dishes, it’s bringing some of that Christmas celebration that we had in St. Lucia, bringing that sensibility here.”

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Snead grew up watching her grandmother, Valerie Shelley, cooking the mirlitons as part of a spread that invariably includes seafood gumbo, macaroni and cheese, turkey, and ham. The gathering was usually at least 30 people: “It’s the only time my whole family is together at once.”

Now, Snead helps cook the meal—and the mirlitons—staying true to the family recipe. “Nobody dares change the stuffed mirliton recipe.”

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As beloved as the vegetables are in New Orleans, they can be difficult to find outside the city, as Snead discovered when her family had to leave after Hurricane Katrina.

“We went to Orlando. We tried to find them when we were there, but when we asked for them, people there looked at us like we were crazy. My dad came back to New Orleans to get them for our Thanksgiving.”

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Melissa Araujo, Founder And Executive Chef At Araujo Restaurant Group

Dishes: Pierna Asada (Cuban Roast Pork), New Orleans-Style Dirty Rice, Postelitos De Carne (Cuban Beef Pastries), And Key Lime Meringue Pie

“Thanksgiving to me isn’t turkey, gravy, and mashed potatoes,” says Araujo, who moved, at the age of two months, from La Ceiba, Honduras, to New Orleans, where her family goes back five generations. She has been cooking in professional kitchens since high school. “It’s a time to celebrate my culture, my family, and everything we are grateful for.”

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This means that pierna asada, a whole-roasted pork leg that’s crisped in the oven, sits alongside her Italian mother’s spaghetti Bolognese, and a platter of New Orleans dirty rice with key lime meringue pie for dessert. As she grew up, says Araujo, they might also have had moros y cristianos, a Cuban-style dish of black beans and rice cooked with coconut milk.

“We have turkey, but my Dad never liked it, so he made pork and it has stayed,” she says. “It’s always more popular.”

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Although her menu might change a little from year to year—“If there’s a new in-law, we combine their respective customs to make room for more”—she always finishes her table with one thing: German-style potato salad.

“Hondurans are passionate about it, and it has to be classic,” says the chef. “If you try to change it, they will kill you.”

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Titus Perkins, Executive Kitchen Manager At Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group

Dish: BBQ Shrimp Dressing

“When you are in the restaurant business, the people around you become your family,” says Perkins, who for 26 years has worked at the venerable New Orleans spot Brennan’s, where he started as a dishwasher. Thanksgiving is a busy day at the restaurant, so about 5 years ago, in recognition of his hard-working kitchen team, the now-executive kitchen manager decided to close to the public and cook a meal for the staff a few days ahead of the holiday.

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“I started this tradition to let my staff know they’re appreciated by me.” This year, there’ll be about 80 guests, he says. “Every year it grows. The managers take care of the staff; they’re the servers, they’re clearing the plates. This year, we’ll have about 10 turkeys, stuffing, potatoes, and my barbecued shrimp dressing.

“It’s a two-step process,” Perkins says of his signature side. “You make a sauce with the shells, and then you barbecue the shrimp. It’s old-school New Orleans style, with Abita beer, butter, rosemary, garlic, Creole seasoning.”

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“It’s a pain to make, but really good,” he laughs, which is funny since he says the dressing came about from his trying not to cook. “One Thanksgiving, I had to make the dressing, but I was also supposed to make barbecued shrimp as a side dish, so I combined them, trying to save time. Now it’s my family thing—for family at home as well as the restaurant.”

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Touré Folkes, Founder of Turning Tables

Dishes: French Martinis, Mac And Cheese

“One of my rules as a New Orleans citizen: I don’t work Mardi Gras and I don’t work Thanksgiving. Those are the days to see the people you love in one place. On Thanksgiving, it’s the racetrack,” says Folkes. The rest of the year, the New York native is busy running Turning Tables, the nonprofit he founded in 2019, which offers career development classes to create more equity behind the bar.

For  the past few years, Folkes’s mother, Glory Lemons, has joined in his Thanksgiving routine. The drink of the day is her favorite cocktail: the brightly colored French martini, which mixes vodka, pineapple juice, and Chambord. “I don’t know how my mom came to French martinis, but she loves them on the holidays, so I make them for her,” says Folkes.

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After visiting the racetrack, they travel to friends’ pot lucks, armed with platters of his mom’s four-cheese mac. “I’ve ‘evolutionized’ it, so there might be three different pans of mac and cheese, one with four cheeses, one with meat, [and] I might make mac and cheese nachos,” says Folkes. “In New Orleans, people are going to put their own spin on everything.”

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Folkes sees a strong reason for the Crescent City’s proud, singular spirit: “It’s a smaller city that has gone through a lot of stuff, a lot of collective trauma. New Orleans has so much culture created by Black people, by slaves who came across the ocean. Many of the first responders to Ida, to Covid, were local hospitality people who had drive and initiative.”

In short, New Orleans is resilient, he says, “a community that comes together around food and says, ‘Let’s do what needs to be done.’”

Is Faux Turkey Finally Good Enough For A Vegan Thanksgiving?

The market’s growth is largely being driven by flexitarian consumers willing to branch out.

As real meat prices continue to soar due to supply-chain disruptions and the highest inflation in decades, fake meat has become an increasingly accessible alternative, just in time for Thanksgiving dinner.

Demand for plant-based meat has grown steadily in recent years, even if only 5% of the American population identifies as vegan or vegetarian. The category’s growth is mostly being driven by flexitarians, consumers who eat meat but are also adding in more plant-based alternatives due to health and sustainability concerns.

Add on the rising cost of turkey for the holiday, up more than 20% year on year, and plant-based holiday centerpieces could gain a real foothold this season.

A traditional bird for eight might cost somewhere between $20 to $40 in the U.S. this year, depending on the location; most plant-based alternatives are around $16, and those producers say their prices have not changed significantly since 2020. This holiday season represents a real opportunity for faux-meat producers to gain ground on the Thanksgiving table.

Yet there are warning signs for plant-based producers. Beyond Meat Inc. saw sales fall off in the third quarter as demand slowed. In early November, Maple Leaf Foods Inc., Canada’s largest food processor, said that the company was “seeing a marked slowdown in the plant-based protein category performance,” according to Chief Executive Officer Michael McCain, prompting a review of its strategy.

In 2019, Bloomberg conducted a taste test of nine imitation Thanksgiving roast products. The results were mixed and the takeaway was clear: Turkey producers had nothing to worry about back then, as the demand and science were not quite there yet to really drive innovation.

This year, things are different. Due to soaring turkey prices because of inflation, supply-chain disruptions and wider availability of fake meat products, consumers are ready to give faux turkeys a second chance. Notably, not one company changed their fake turkey recipe for this Thanksgiving, instead choosing to expand their portfolios of products and increase production capabilities to capture new customers. In short, the fake meat hasn’t much changed, but the customer base has.

“They are looking for premium products,” said Bob Nolan, senior vice president of insights and analytics at Conagra Brands Inc., which produces the popular plant-based Gardein Holiday Roast. Flexitarian households, which drove 85% of Gardein’s revenue growth this year, won’t just settle for a typical vegan burger patty, he said.

“Beyond and Impossible changed the bar. Consumers are now expecting to find healthy plant-based options without sacrificing taste and experience,” said Darren Seifer, food and beverage industry analyst for NPD Group.

Plant-based turkey is not a guaranteed sell for all flexitarians because, so far, it hasn’t been produced to mimic the fibrous muscle of a real bird. “We’re not at the stage where plant-based turkey will be the same as turkey.

Not as close as burgers and sausage are,” said Mitchell Scott, co-founder of The Very Good Food Company Inc., a public company based in British Columbia that makes plant-based foods. Still, skyrocketing holiday meat prices might incentivize consumers to try a product they might have hesitated to taste before.

Their Very Good Butchers line started selling its version of turkey, “Stuffed Beast,” for Thanksgiving 2017, which, at $40, is on par with, if not pricier than, the cost of its meat-based alternative, depending on the market. The company made a couple hundred in the first year and sold out right away. Last year, it made 9,000; this year, it’s up to around 35,000.

The result of a taste test showed a higher-quality product than many faux turkeys. The roast is tied with twine and flecked with organic carrots and yams, and it has the oniony flavor of a very bready stuffing recipe.

Another big player, Tofurky, is also optimistic about the market, based on this year’s sales to date. The company that makes it has been around since 1980, and its first plant-based holiday roast dates back to 1995. The family-owned business now has several specialty products, including a roast with gravy and a “ham” roast.

“Last year Tofurky saw its plant-based ham roast numbers grow 631% and the holiday feast experienced 126% growth,” said CEO Jaime Athos. Currently, Tofurky is tracking 25% ahead of cumulative orders shipped for the same time last year.

Tofurky has not updated the recipe of its Thanksgiving centerpiece, choosing instead to invoke nostalgia with the holiday roast. It tastes transported from another era, with a gummy texture and salty flavor.

Most analysts agree that chicken is the next big thing in the plant-based meat market. Kellogg Co., Conagra, Maple Leaf and Beyond Meat all launched chicken products this year. The latter had a delayed and lackluster roll out of its chicken tender, though, interpreted by some as a sign of a possible industry slowdown.

Still, the seasonal interest in plant-based turkey appears to be thriving.

“We are coming up on about 20% more growth this year alone of sales of Field Roast. We would sell more if we could make more,” said Adam Grogan, chief operating officer of Greenleaf Foods SPC, an independent subsidiary of Maple Leaf Foods. For Greenleaf, the main obstacle to higher production is not supply-chain woes but labor shortages, as its product cannot be widely automated.

Smaller companies like Minnesota-based Herbivorous Butcher are facing similar problems. The company started selling its turkey-free feast in 2014, and although CEO Kale Walch has seen demand rise, his company hasn’t been able to cash in on this year’s opportunity due to a limited production capability. Herbivorous Butcher had the plans ready for a much larger production facility but then Covid-19 hit and financing tightened up.

“We stretch ourselves thin ever year,” he said. “We have to cap orders every year.”

Goldman Analyst Turned ‘Great British Bake Off’ Star Finds Finance Fame


Analysts don’t usually hog the headlines, but Crystelle Pereira is no ordinary banker.

The Goldman Sachs Group Inc. employee has a talent for cakes, pastries and pies, good enough to have earned her a spot in the final of the “Great British Bake Off,” the wildly popular reality-TV show known in the U.S. as the “Great British Baking Show.”

Her bakes that most impressed the judges — the much-feared Paul Hollywood and Prue Leith — incorporated ingredients as varied as miso, tahini and yuzu. The show reaches its conclusion this week (spoiler alert), with Pereira facing off against Chirag “Chigs” Parmar and Giuseppe Dell’Anno after early favorite Jürgen Krauss’s shock exit in the semi-final.

The competition was held over the summer and viewers don’t know if she’ll win, but Pereira, who works for the asset management division, is already back in the bank’s London office. Her success has drawn plenty of attention from colleagues and clients in recent weeks, making the 26-year-old one of the best-known faces in the City of London.

It’s not just a flood of congratulatory emails. At a recent client meeting Pereira attended, 90% of the lunch was spent discussing her experience on the show, a person familiar with the matter said.

“Even my clients are now learning the news,” Pereira said for an in-house interview published on Goldman’s internal site in September. “It’s created a nice atmosphere and, given the last two years, it’s been a nice positive distraction.”

Pereira, who joined Goldman in 2018 having previously interned at the bank, is an analyst on the lender’s Insurance Asset Management team. She applied to the show on a whim after spending time baking over lockdown, according to the September interview.

“When I finally got the call to say I had made the final 12, I just couldn’t believe what I was hearing,” she said, crediting her Portuguese-Goan upbringing for her cooking skills. Of the three bakes that make up each episode, she said the technical challenge — where contestants must cook a recipe without practicing it — was the hardest.

“I am very much a planner – for instance, when I go on holiday, I put together an itinerary and have everything planned far in advance,” she said. “I have a huge fear of the unknown and I was absolutely petrified of what was hiding underneath that gingham cloth.”

Pereira is the second Goldman employee to feature on the show. Antony Amourdoux, a vice president in the markets division, appeared on the 2018 season.

Despite having a “Bake Off” finalist in their ranks, the title of best baker in Pereira’s wider team may be up for grabs. At a team bake-along earlier in the year — before her selection for the show was known — several rated their own cupcakes above hers.

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Bitcoin Marches Away From Crypto Pack In Show of Resiliency

NBA Top Shot Lawsuit Says Dapper’s NFTs Need SEC Clampdown

Maximalists At The Movies: Bitcoiners Crowdfunding Anti-FUD Documentary Film

Caitlin Long Reveals The ‘Real Reason’ People Are Selling Crypto

Microsoft Quietly Closing Down Azure Blockchain In September

How Much Energy Does Bitcoin Actually Consume?

Bitcoin Should Be Priced In Sats And How Do We Deliver This Message

Bitcoin Loses 6% In An Hour After Tesla Drops Payments Over Carbon Concerns

Crypto Twitter Decodes Why Zuck Really Named His Goats ‘Max’ And ‘Bitcoin’

Bitcoin Pullback Risk Rises As Whales Resume Selling

Thiel-Backed Injects Billions In Crypto Exchange

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Here’s How To Tell The Difference Between Bitcoin And Ethereum

In Crypto, Sometimes The Best Thing You Can Do Is Nothing

Crypto Community Remembers Hal Finney’s Contributions To Blockchain On His 65Th Birthday

DJ Khaled ft. Nas, JAY-Z & James Fauntleroy And Harmonies Rap Bitcoin Wealth

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Crypto Could Still Be In Its Infancy, Says T. Rowe Price’s CEO

Governing Body Of Louisiana Gives Bitcoin Its Nod Of Approval

Sports Athletes Getting Rich From Bitcoin

Behind Bitcoin’s Recent Slide: Imploding Bets And Forced Liquidations

Bad Omen? US Dollar And Bitcoin Are Both Slumping In A Rare Trend

Wall Street Starts To See Weakness Emerge In Bitcoin Charts

Crypto For The Long Term: What’s The Outlook?

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Wall Street Pays Attention As Bitcoin Market Cap Nears The Valuation Of Google

Bitcoin Price Drops To $52K, Liquidating Almost $10B In Over-Leveraged Longs

Bitcoin Funding Rates Crash To Lowest Levels In 7 Months, Peak Fear?

Investors’ On-Chain Activity Hints At Bitcoin Price Cycle Top Above $166,000

This Vegan Billionaire Disrupted The Crypto Markets. Now He Wants To Tokenize Stocks

Texas Crypto Law Proposal Has One Major Flaw In Regards To Bitcoin Loans/Liens Says Caitlin Long, CEO

Black Americans Are Embracing Bitcoin To Make Up For Stolen Time

Rap Icon Nas Could Net $100M When Coinbase Lists on Nasdaq

The First Truly Native Cross-Chain DEX Is About To Go Live

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Bitcoin Nears Record Before Largest U.S. Crypto Exchange Coinbase Nears $100 Billion Valuation Listing

3X As Many Crypto Figures Make It Onto Forbes 2021 Billionaires List As Last Year

Bubble Or A Drop In The Ocean? Putting Bitcoin’s $1 Trillion Milestone Into Perspective

Pension Funds And Insurance Firms Alive To Bitcoin Investment Proposal

Here’s Why April May Be The Best Month Yet For Bitcoin Price

Blockchain-Based Renewable Energy Marketplaces Gain Traction In 2021

Crypto Firms Got More Funding Last Quarter Than In All of 2020

Government-Backed Bitcoin Hash Wars Will Be The New Space Race

Lars Wood On Enhanced SAT Solvers Based Hashing Method For Bitcoin Mining

Morgan Stanley Adds Bitcoin Exposure To 12 Investment Funds

One BTC Will Be Worth A Lambo By 2022, And A Bugatti By 2023: Kraken CEO

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Bitcoin Is 3rd Largest World Currency

Does BlockFi’s Risk Justify The Reward?

Crypto Media Runs With The Bulls As New Entrants Compete Against Established Brands

Bitcoin’s Never-Ending Bubble And Other Mysteries

The Last Dip Is The Deepest As Wife Leaves Husband For Buying More Bitcoin Raises $300 Million As Investors Find Other Ways Into Bitcoin

Crypto Kids Camp

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Bitcoin Searches In Turkey Spike 566% After Turkish Lira Drops 14%

Crypto Is Banned In Morocco, But Bitcoin Purchases Are Soaring

Bitcoin Can Be Sent With A Tweet As Bottlepay Twitter App Goes Live

Rise of Crypto Market’s Quiet Giants Has Big Market Implications

Canadian Property Firm Buys Bitcoin In Hopes Of Eventually Scrapping Condo Fees

Bitcoin Price Gets Fed Boost But Bond Yields Could Play Spoilsport: Analysts

Bank of America Claims It Costs Just $93 Million To Move Bitcoin’s Price By 1%

Would A US Wealth Tax Push Millionaires To Bitcoin Adoption?

NYDIG Head Says Major Firms Will Announce Bitcoin ‘Milestones’ Next Week

Signal Encrypted Messenger Now Accepts Donations In Bitcoin

Bitcoin Is Now Worth More Than Visa And Mastercard Combined

Retail Bitcoin Customers Rival Wall Street Buyers As Mania Builds

Crypto’s Rising. So Are The Stakes For Governments Everywhere

Bitcoin Falls After Weekend Rally Pushes Token To Fresh Record

Oakland A’s Major League Baseball Team Now Accepts Bitcoin For Suites

Students In Georgia Set To Be Taught About Crypto At High School

What You Need To Know About Bitcoin Now

Bitcoin Winning Streak Now At 7 Days As Fresh Stimulus Keeps Inflation Bet Alive

Bitcoin Intraday Trading Pattern Emerges As Institutions Pile In

If 60/40 Recipe Sours, Maybe Stir In Some Bitcoin

Explaining Bitcoin’s Speculative Attack On The Dollar

VIX-Like Gauge For Bitcoin Sees Its First-Ever Options Trade

A Utopian Vision Gets A Blockchain Twist In Nevada

Crypto Influencers Scramble To Recover Twitter Accounts After Suspensions

Bitcoin Breaks Through $57,000 As Risk Appetite Revives

Analyzing Bitcoin’s Network Effect

US Government To Sell 0.7501 Bitcoin Worth $38,000 At Current Prices

Pro Traders Avoid Bitcoin Longs While Cautiously Watching DXY Strengthen

Bitcoin Hits Highest Level In Two Weeks As Big-Money Bets Flow

OG Status In Crypto Is A Liability

Bridging The Bitcoin Gender Gap: Crypto Lets Everyone Access Wealth

HODLing Early Leads To Relationship Troubles? Redditors Share Their Stories

Want To Be Rich? Bitcoin’s Limited Supply Cap Means You Only Need 0.01 BTC

You Can Earn 6%, 8%, Even 12% On A Bitcoin ‘Savings Account’—Yeah, Right

Egyptians Are Buying Bitcoin Despite Prohibitive New Banking Laws

Is March Historically A Bad Month For Bitcoin?

Suze Orman: ‘I love Bitcoin’

Bitcoin Falls 4% As Fed’s Powell Sees ‘Concern’ Over Rising Bond Yields

US Retailers See Millions In Lost Sales Due To Port Congestion, Shortage Of Containers

Pandemic-Relief Aid Boosts Household Income Which Causes Artificial Economic Stimulus

YouTube Suspends CoinDesk’s Channel Over Unspecified Violations

It’s Gates Versus Musk As World’s Richest Spar Over Bitcoin

Charlie Munger Is Sure Bitcoin Will Fail To Become A Global Medium Of Exchange

Bitcoin Is Minting Thousands Of Crypto ‘Diamond Hands’ Millionaires Complete W/Laser Eyes

Federal Reserve’s Wire & ACH Systems Go Down, Visa & Mastercard Raise Fees, Meanwhile, Bitcoin Works Just Fine

Dubai’s IBC Group Pledges 100,000 Bitcoin ($4.8 Billion) 20% Of All Bitcoin, Largest So Far

Bitcoin’s Value Is All In The Eye Of The ‘Bithodler’

Bitcoin Is Hitting Record Highs. Why It’s Not Too Late To Dig For Digital Gold

$56.3K Bitcoin Price And $1Trillion Market Cap Signal BTC Is Here To Stay

Christie’s Auction House Will Now Accept Cryptocurrency

Why A Chinese New Year Bitcoin Sell-Off Did Not Happen This Year

The US Federal Reserve Will Adopt Bitcoin As A Reserve Asset

Motley Fool Adding $5M In Bitcoin To Its ‘10X Portfolio’ — Has A $500K Price Target

German Cannabis Company Hedges With Bitcoin In Case Euro Crashes

Bitcoin: What To Know Before Investing

China’s Cryptocurrency Stocks Left Behind In Bitcoin Frenzy

Bitcoin’s Epic Run Is Winning More Attention On Wall Street

Bitcoin Jumps To $50,000 As Record-Breaking Rally Accelerates

Bitcoin’s Volatility Should Burn Investors. It Hasn’t

Bitcoin’s Latest Record Run Is Less Volatile Than The 2017 Boom

Blockchain As A Replacement To The MERS (Mortgage Electronic Registration System)

The Ultimate Resource On “PriFi” Or Private Finance

Deutsche Bank To Offer Bitcoin Custody Services

BeanCoin Currency Casts Lifeline To Closed New Orleans Bars

Bitcoin Could Enter ‘Supercycle’ As Fed Balance Sheet Hits New Record High

Crypto Mogul Bets On ‘Meme Investing’ With Millions In GameStop

Iran’s Central Banks Acquires Bitcoin Even Though Lagarde Says Central Banks Will Not Hold Bitcoin

Bitcoin To Come To America’s Oldest Bank, BNY Mellon

Tesla’s Bitcoin-Equals-Cash View Isn’t Shared By All Crypto Owners

How A Lawsuit Against The IRS Is Trying To Expand Privacy For Crypto Users

Apple Should Launch Own Crypto Exchange, RBC Analyst Says

Bitcoin Hits $43K All-Time High As Tesla Invests $1.5 Billion In BTC

Bitcoin Bounces Off Top of Recent Price Range

Top Fiat Currencies By Market Capitalization VS Bitcoin

Bitcoin Eyes $50K Less Than A Month After BTC Price Broke Its 2017 All-Time High

Investors Piling Into Overvalued Crypto Funds Risk A Painful Exit

Parents Should Be Aware Of Their Children’s Crypto Tax Liabilities

Miami Mayor Says City Employees Should Be Able To Take Their Salaries In Bitcoin

Bitcoiners Get Last Laugh As IBM’s “Blockchain Not Bitcoin” Effort Goes Belly-up

Bitcoin Accounts Offer 3-12% Rates In A Low-Interest World

Analyst Says Bitcoin Price Sell-Off May Occur As Chinese New Year Approaches

Why The Crypto World Needs To Build An Amazon Of Its Own

Tor Project’s Crypto Donations Increased 23% In 2020

Social Trading Platform eToro Ended 2020 With $600M In Revenue

Bitcoin Billionaire Set To Run For California Governor

GameStop Investing Craze ‘Proof of Concept’ For Bitcoin Success

Bitcoin Entrepreneurs Install Mining Rigs In Cars. Will Trucks And Tractor Trailers Be Next?

Harvard, Yale, Brown Endowments Have Been Buying Bitcoin For At Least A Year

Bitcoin Return To $40,000 In Doubt As Flows To Key Fund Slow

Ultimate Resource For Leading Non-Profits Focused On Policy Issues Facing Cryptocurrencies

Regulate Cryptocurrencies? Not Yet

Check Out These Cryptocurrency Clubs And Bitcoin Groups!

Blockchain Brings Unicorns To Millennials

Crypto-Industry Prepares For Onslaught Of Public Listings

Bitcoin Core Lead Maintainer Steps Back, Encourages Decentralization

Here Are Very Bitcoiny Ways To Get Bitcoin Exposure

To Understand Bitcoin, Just Think of It As A Faith-Based Asset

Cryptos Won’t Work As Actual Currencies, UBS Economist Says

Older Investors Are Getting Into Crypto, New Survey Finds

Access Denied: Banks Seem Prone To Cryptophobia Despite Growing Adoption

Pro Traders Buy The Dip As Bulls Address A Trifecta Of FUD News Announcements

Andreas Antonopoulos And Others Debunk Bitcoin Double-Spend FUD

New Bitcoin Investors Explain Why They’re Buying At Record Prices

When Crypto And Traditional Investors Forget Fundamentals, The Market Is Broken

First Hyperledger-based Cryptocurrency Explodes 486% Overnight On Bittrex BTC Listing

Bitcoin Steady As Analysts Say Getting Back To $40,000 Is Key

Coinbase, MEVP Invest In Crypto-Asset Startup Rain

Synthetic Dreams: Wrapped Crypto Assets Gain Traction Amid Surging Market

Secure Bitcoin Self-Custody: Balancing Safety And Ease Of Use

Voyager Crypto App Review

UBS (A Totally Corrupt And Criminal Bank) Warns Clients Crypto Prices Can Actually Go To Zero

Bitcoin Swings Undermine CFO Case For Converting Cash To Crypto

CoinLab Cuts Deal With Mt. Gox Trustee Over Bitcoin Claims

Bitcoin Slides Under $35K Despite Biden Unveiling $1.9 Trillion Stimulus

Bitcoin Refuses To ‘Die’ As BTC Price Hits $40K Just Three Days After Crash

Ex-Ripple CTO Can’t Remember Password To Access $240M In Bitcoin

Financial Advisers Are Betting On Bitcoin As A Hedge

ECB President Christine Lagarde (French Convict) Says, Bitcoin Enables “Funny Business.”

German Police Shut Down Darknet Marketplace That Traded Bitcoin

Bitcoin Miner That’s Risen 1,400% Says More Regulation Is Needed

Bitcoin Rebounds While Leaving Everyone In Dark On True Worth

UK Treasury Calls For Feedback On Approach To Cryptocurrency And Stablecoin Regulation

What Crypto Users Need Know About Changes At The SEC

Where Does This 28% Bitcoin Price Drop Rank In History? Not Even In The Top 5

Seven Times That US Regulators Stepped Into Crypto In 2020

Retail Has Arrived As Paypal Clears $242M In Crypto Sales Nearly Double The Previous Record

Bitcoin’s Slide Dents Price Momentum That Dwarfed Everything

Does Bitcoin Boom Mean ‘Better Gold’ Or Bigger Bubble?

Bitcoin Whales Are Profiting As ‘Weak Hands’ Sell BTC After Price Correction

Crypto User Recovers Long-Lost Private Keys To Access $4M In Bitcoin

The Case For And Against Investing In Bitcoin

Bitcoin’s Wild Weekends Turn Efficient Market Theory Inside Out

Mega-Bullish News For Bitcoin As Elon Musk Says, “Pay Me In Bitcoin” And Biden Says, “Ignore Budget Deficits”!

Bitcoin Price Briefly Surpasses Market Cap Of Tencent

Broker Touts Exotic Bitcoin Bet To Squeeze Income From Crypto

Broker Touts Exotic Bitcoin Bet To Squeeze Income From Crypto

Tesla’s Crypto-Friendly CEO Is Now The Richest Man In The World

Crypto Market Cap Breaks $1 Trillion Following Jaw-Dropping Rally

Gamblers Could Use Bitcoin At Slot Machines With New Patent

Crypto Users Donate $400K To Julian Assange Defense As Mexico Proposes Asylum

Grayscale Ethereum Trust Fell 22% Despite Rally In Holdings

Bitcoin’s Bulls Should Fear Its Other Scarcity Problem

Ether Follows Bitcoin To Record High Amid Dizzying Crypto Rally

Retail Investors Are Largely Uninvolved As Bitcoin Price Chases $40K

Bitcoin Breaches $34,000 As Rally Extends Into New Year

Social Media Interest In Bitcoin Hits All-Time High

Bitcoin Price Quickly Climbs To $31K, Liquidating $100M Of Shorts

How Massive Bitcoin Buyer Activity On Coinbase Propelled BTC Price Past $32K

FinCEN Wants US Citizens To Disclose Offshore Crypto Holdings of $10K+

Governments Will Start To Hodl Bitcoin In 2021

Crypto-Linked Stocks Extend Rally That Produced 400% Gains

‘Bitcoin Liquidity Crisis’ — BTC Is Becoming Harder To Buy On Exchanges, Data Shows

Bitcoin Looks To Gain Traction In Payments

BTC Market Cap Now Over Half A Trillion Dollars. Major Weekly Candle Closed!!

Elon Musk And Satoshi Nakamoto Making Millionaires At Record Pace

Binance Enables SegWit Support For Bitcoin Deposits As Adoption Grows

Santoshi Nakamoto Delivers $24.5K Christmas Gift With Another New All-Time High

Bitcoin’s Rally Has Already Outlasted 2017’s Epic Run

Gifting Crypto To Loved Ones This Holiday? Educate Them First

Scaramucci’s SkyBridge Files With SEC To Launch Bitcoin Fund

Samsung Integrates Bitcoin Wallets And Exchange Into Galaxy Phones

HTC Smartphone Will Run A Full Bitcoin Node (#GotBitcoin?)

HTC’s New 5G Router Can Host A Full Bitcoin Node

Bitcoin Miners Are Heating Homes Free of Charge

Bitcoin Miners Will Someday Be Incorporated Into Household Appliances

Musk Inquires About Moving ‘Large Transactions’ To Bitcoin

How To Invest In Bitcoin: It Can Be Easy, But Watch Out For Fees

Megan Thee Stallion Gives Away $1 Million In Bitcoin

CoinFLEX Sets Up Short-Term Lending Facility For Crypto Traders

Wall Street Quants Pounce On Crytpo Industry And Some Are Not Sure What To Make Of It

Bitcoin Shortage As Wall Street FOMO Turns BTC Whales Into ‘Plankton’

Bitcoin Tops $22,000 And Strategists Say Rally Has Further To Go

Why Bitcoin Is Overpriced by More Than 50%

Kraken Exchange Will Integrate Bitcoin’s Lightning Network In 2021

New To Bitcoin? Stay Safe And Avoid These Common Scams

Andreas M. Antonopoulos And Simon Dixon Say Don’t Buy Bitcoin!

Famous Former Bitcoin Critics Who Conceded In 2020

Jim Cramer Bought Bitcoin While ‘Off Nicely From The Top’ In $17,000S

The Wealthy Are Jumping Into Bitcoin As Stigma Around Crypto Fades

WordPress Adds Official Ethereum Ad Plugin

France Moves To Ban Anonymous Crypto Accounts To Prevent Money Laundering

10 Predictions For 2021: China, Bitcoin, Taxes, Stablecoins And More

Movie Based On Darknet Market Silk Road Premiering In February

Crypto Funds Have Seen Record Investment Inflow In Recent Weeks

US Gov Is Bitcoin’s Last Remaining Adversary, Says Messari Founder

$1,200 US Stimulus Check Is Now Worth Almost $4,000 If Invested In Bitcoin

German Bank Launches Crypto Fund Covering Portfolio Of Digital Assets

World Governments Agree On Importance Of Crypto Regulation At G-7 Meeting

Why Some Investors Get Bitcoin So Wrong, And What That Says About Its Strengths

It’s Not About Data Ownership, It’s About Data Control, EFF Director Says

‘It Will Send BTC’ — On-Chain Analyst Says Bitcoin Hodlers Are Only Getting Stronger

Bitcoin Arrives On Wall Street: S&P Dow Jones Launching Crypto Indexes In 2021

Audio Streaming Giant Spotify Is Looking Into Crypto Payments

BlackRock (Assets Under Management $7.4 Trillion) CEO: Bitcoin Has Caught Our Attention

Bitcoin Moves $500K Around The Globe Every Second, Says Samson Mow

Pomp Talks Shark Tank’s Kevin O’leary Into Buying ‘A Little More’ Bitcoin

Bitcoin Is The Tulipmania That Refuses To Die

Ultimate Resource On Ethereum 2.0

Biden Should Integrate Bitcoin Into Us Financial System, Says Niall Ferguson

Bitcoin Is Winning The Monetary Revolution

Cash Is Trash, Dump Gold, Buy Bitcoin!

Bitcoin Price Sets New Record High Above $19,783

You Call That A Record? Bitcoin’s November Gains Are 3x Stock Market’s

Bitcoin Fights Back With Power, Speed and Millions of Users

Guggenheim Fund ($295 Billion Assets Under Management) Reserves Right To Put Up To 10% In Bitcoin Trust!

Exchanges Outdo Auctions For Governments Cashing In Criminal Crypto, Says Exec

Coinbase CEO: Trump Administration May ‘Rush Out’ Burdensome Crypto Wallet Rules

Bitcoin Plunges Along With Other Coins Providing For A Major Black Friday Sale Opportunity

The Most Bullish Bitcoin Arguments For Your Thanksgiving Table

‘Bitcoin Tuesday’ To Become One Of The Largest-Ever Crypto Donation Events

World’s First 24/7 Crypto Call-In Station!!!

Bitcoin Trades Again Near Record, Driven By New Group Of Buyers

Friendliest Of Them All? These Could Be The Best Countries For Crypto

Bitcoin Price Doubles Since The Halving, With Just 3.4M Bitcoin Left For Buyers

First Company-Sponsored Bitcoin Retirement Plans Launched In US

Poker Players Are Enhancing Winnings By Cashing Out In Bitcoin

Crypto-Friendly Brooks Gets Nod To Serve 5-Year Term Leading Bank Regulator

The Bitcoin Comeback: Is Crypto Finally Going Mainstream?

The Dark Future Where Payments Are Politicized And Bitcoin Wins

Mexico’s 3rd Richest Man Reveals BTC Holdings As Bitcoin Breaches $18,000

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Bitcoin’s Gunning For A Record And No One’s Talking About It

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US Company Now Lets Travelers Pay For Passports With Bitcoin

Billionaire Hedge Fund Investor Stanley Druckenmiller Says He Owns Bitcoin In CNBC Interview

China’s UnionPay And Korea’s Danal To Launch Crypto-Supporting Digital Card #GotBitcoin

Bitcoin Is Back Trading Near Three-Year Highs

Bitcoin Transaction Fees Rise To 28-Month High As Hashrate Drops Amid Price Rally

Market Is Proving Bitcoin Is ‘Ultimate Safe Haven’ — Anthony Pompliano

3 Reasons Why Bitcoin Price Suddenly Dropping Below $13,000 Isn’t Bearish

Bitcoin Resurgence Leaves Institutional Acceptance Unanswered

Bitcoin’s Rivalry With Gold Plus Millennial Interest Gives It ‘Considerable’ Upside Potential: JPMorgan

WordPress Content Can Now Be Timestamped On Ethereum

PayPal To Offer Crypto Payments Starting In 2021 (A-Z) (#GotBitcoin?)

As Bitcoin Approaches $13,000 It Breaks Correlation With Equities

Crypto M&A Surges Past 2019 Total As Rest of World Eclipses U.S. (#GotBitcoin?)

How HBCUs Are Prepping Black Students For Blockchain Careers

Why Every US Congressman Just Got Sent Some ‘American’ Bitcoin

CME Sounding Out Crypto Traders To Gauge Market Demand For Ether Futures, Options

Caitlin Long On Bitcoin, Blockchain And Rehypothecation (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Drops To $10,446.83 As CFTC Charges BitMex With Illegally Operating Derivatives Exchange

BitcoinACKs Lets You Track Bitcoin Development And Pay Coders For Their Work

One Of Hal Finney’s Lost Contributions To Bitcoin Core To Be ‘Resurrected’ (#GotBitcoin?)

Cross-chain Money Markets, Latest Attempt To Bring Liquidity To DeFi

Memes Mean Mad Money. Those Silly Defi Memes, They’re Really Important (#GotBitcoin?)

Bennie Overton’s Story About Our Corrupt U.S. Judicial, Global Financial Monetary System And Bitcoin

Stop Fucking Around With Public Token Airdrops In The United States (#GotBitcoin?)

Mad Money’s Jim Cramer Will Invest 1% Of Net Worth In Bitcoin Says, “Gold Is Dangerous”

State-by-state Licensing For Crypto And Payments Firms In The Us Just Got Much Easier (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin (BTC) Ranks As World 6Th Largest Currency

Pomp Claims He Convinced Jim Cramer To Buy Bitcoin

Traditional Investors View Bitcoin As If It Were A Technology Stock

Mastercard Releases Platform Enabling Central Banks To Test Digital Currencies (#GotBitcoin?)

Being Black On Wall Street. Top Black Executives Speak Out About Racism (#GotBitcoin?)

Tesla And Bitcoin Are The Most Popular Assets On TradingView (#GotBitcoin?)

From COVID Generation To Crypto Generation (#GotBitcoin?)

Right-Winger Tucker Carlson Causes Grayscale Investments To Pull Bitcoin Ads

Bitcoin Has Lost Its Way: Here’s How To Return To Crypto’s Subversive Roots

Cross Chain Is Here: NEO, ONT, Cosmos And NEAR Launch Interoperability Protocols (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Trading Products Enter The Mainstream With A Number Of Inherent Advantages (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Goes Mainstream With TV, Newspaper Ads (#GotBitcoin?)

A Guarded Generation: How Millennials View Money And Investing (#GotBitcoin?)

Blockchain-Backed Social Media Brings More Choice For Users

California Moves Forward With Digital Asset Bill (#GotBitcoin?)

Walmart Adds Crypto Cashback Through Shopping Loyalty Platform StormX (#GotBitcoin?)

Congressman Tom Emmer To Lead First-Ever Crypto Town Hall (#GotBitcoin?)

Why It’s Time To Pay Attention To Mexico’s Booming Crypto Market (#GotBitcoin?)

The Assets That Matter Most In Crypto (#GotBitcoin?)

Ultimate Resource On Non-Fungible Tokens

Bitcoin Community Highlights Double-Standard Applied Deutsche Bank Epstein Scandal

Blockchain Makes Strides In Diversity. However, Traditional Tech Industry Not-S0-Much (#GotBitcoin?)

An Israeli Blockchain Startup Claims It’s Invented An ‘Undo’ Button For BTC Transactions

After Years of Resistance, BitPay Adopts SegWit For Cheaper Bitcoin Transactions

US Appeals Court Allows Warrantless Search of Blockchain, Exchange Data

Central Bank Rate Cuts Mean ‘World Has Gone Zimbabwe’

This Researcher Says Bitcoin’s Elliptic Curve Could Have A Secret Backdoor

China Discovers 4% Of Its Reserves Or 83 Tons Of It’s Gold Bars Are Fake (#GotBitcoin?)

Former Legg Mason Star Bill Miller And Bloomberg Are Optimistic About Bitcoin’s Future

Yield Chasers Are Yield Farming In Crypto-Currencies (#GotBitcoin?)

Australia Post Office Now Lets Customers Buy Bitcoin At Over 3,500 Outlets

Anomaly On Bitcoin Sidechain Results In Brief Security Lapse

SEC And DOJ Charges Lobbying Kingpin Jack Abramoff And Associate For Money Laundering

Veteran Commodities Trader Chris Hehmeyer Goes All In On Crypto (#GotBitcoin?)

Activists Document Police Misconduct Using Decentralized Protocol (#GotBitcoin?)

Supposedly, PayPal, Venmo To Roll Out Crypto Buying And Selling (#GotBitcoin?)

Industry Leaders Launch PayID, The Universal ID For Payments (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Quant Fund Debuts With $23M In Assets, $2.3B In Trades (#GotBitcoin?)

The Queens Politician Who Wants To Give New Yorkers Their Own Crypto

Why Does The SEC Want To Run Bitcoin And Ethereum Nodes?

Trump Orders Treasury Secretary Steve Mnuchin To Destroy Bitcoin Just Like They Destroyed The Traditional Economy

US Drug Agency Failed To Properly Supervise Agent Who Stole $700,000 In Bitcoin In 2015

Layer 2 Will Make Bitcoin As Easy To Use As The Dollar, Says Kraken CEO

Bootstrapping Mobile Mesh Networks With Bitcoin Lightning

Nevermind Coinbase — Big Brother Is Already Watching Your Coins (#GotBitcoin?)

BitPay’s Prepaid Mastercard Launches In US to Make Crypto Accessible (#GotBitcoin?)

Germany’s Deutsche Borse Exchange To List New Bitcoin Exchange-Traded Product

‘Bitcoin Billionaires’ Movie To Tell Winklevoss Bros’ Crypto Story

US Pentagon Created A War Game To Fight The Establishment With BTC (#GotBitcoin?)

JPMorgan Provides Banking Services To Crypto Exchanges Coinbase And Gemini (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Advocates Cry Foul As US Fed Buying ETFs For The First Time

Final Block Mined Before Halving Contained Reminder of BTC’s Origins (#GotBitcoin?)

Meet Brian Klein, Crypto’s Own ‘High-Stakes’ Trial Attorney (#GotBitcoin?)

3 Reasons For The Bitcoin Price ‘Halving Dump’ From $10K To $8.1K

Bitcoin Outlives And Outlasts Naysayers And First Website That Declared It Dead Back In 2010

Hedge Fund Pioneer Turns Bullish On Bitcoin Amid ‘Unprecedented’ Monetary Inflation

Antonopoulos: Chainalysis Is Helping World’s Worst Dictators & Regimes (#GotBitcoin?)

Survey Shows Many BTC Holders Use Hardware Wallet, Have Backup Keys (#GotBitcoin?)

Iran Ditches The Rial Amid Hyperinflation As Localbitcoins Seem To Trade Near $35K

Buffett ‘Killed His Reputation’ by Being Stupid About BTC, Says Max Keiser (#GotBitcoin?)

Meltem Demirors: “Bitcoin Is Not A F*Cking Systemic Hedge If You Hold Your Bitcoin At A Financial Institution”

Blockfolio Quietly Patches Years-Old Security Hole That Exposed Source Code (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Won As Store of Value In Coronavirus Crisis — Hedge Fund CEO

Decentralized VPN Gaining Steam At 100,000 Users Worldwide (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Exchange Offers Credit Lines so Institutions Can Trade Now, Pay Later (#GotBitcoin?)

Zoom Develops A Cryptocurrency Paywall To Reward Creators Video Conferencing Sessions (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Startup And Major Bitcoin Cash Partner To Shut Down After 6-Year Run

Open Interest In CME Bitcoin Futures Rises 70% As Institutions Return To Market

Square’s Users Can Route Stimulus Payments To BTC-Friendly Cash App

$1.1 Billion BTC Transaction For Only $0.68 Demonstrates Bitcoin’s Advantage Over Banks

Bitcoin Could Become Like ‘Prison Cigarettes’ Amid Deepening Financial Crisis

Bitcoin Holds Value As US Debt Reaches An Unfathomable $24 Trillion

How To Get Money (Crypto-currency) To People In An Emergency, Fast

US Intelligence To Study What Would Happen If U.S. Dollar Lost Its Status As World’s Reserve Currency (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Miner Manufacturers Mark Down Prices Ahead of Halving

Privacy-Oriented Browsers Gain Traction (#GotBitcoin?)

‘Breakthrough’ As Lightning Uses Web’s Forgotten Payment Code (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Starts Quarter With Price Down Just 10% YTD vs U.S. Stock’s Worst Quarter Since 2008

Bitcoin Enthusiasts, Liberal Lawmakers Cheer A Fed-Backed Digital Dollar

Crypto-Friendly Bank Revolut Launches In The US (#GotBitcoin?)

The CFTC Just Defined What ‘Actual Delivery’ of Crypto Should Look Like (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto CEO Compares US Dollar To Onecoin Scam As Fed Keeps Printing (#GotBitcoin?)

Stuck In Quarantine? Become A Blockchain Expert With These Online Courses (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin, Not Governments Will Save the World After Crisis, Tim Draper Says

Crypto Analyst Accused of Photoshopping Trade Screenshots (#GotBitcoin?)

QE4 Begins: Fed Cuts Rates, Buys $700B In Bonds; Bitcoin Rallies 7.7%

Mike Novogratz And Andreas Antonopoulos On The Bitcoin Crash

Amid Market Downturn, Number of People Owning 1 BTC Hits New Record (#GotBitcoin?)

Fatburger And Others Feed $30 Million Into Ethereum For New Bond Offering (#GotBitcoin?)

Pornhub Will Integrate PumaPay Recurring Subscription Crypto Payments (#GotBitcoin?)

Intel SGX Vulnerability Discovered, Cryptocurrency Keys Threatened

Bitcoin’s Plunge Due To Manipulation, Traditional Markets Falling or PlusToken Dumping?

Countries That First Outlawed Crypto But Then Embraced It (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Maintains Gains As Global Equities Slide, US Yield Hits Record Lows

HTC’s New 5G Router Can Host A Full Bitcoin Node

India Supreme Court Lifts RBI Ban On Banks Servicing Crypto Firms (#GotBitcoin?)

Analyst Claims 98% of Mining Rigs Fail to Verify Transactions (#GotBitcoin?)

Blockchain Storage Offers Security, Data Transparency And immutability. Get Over it!

Black Americans & Crypto (#GotBitcoin?)

Coinbase Wallet Now Allows To Send Crypto Through Usernames (#GotBitcoin)

New ‘Simpsons’ Episode Features Jim Parsons Giving A Crypto Explainer For The Masses (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto-currency Founder Met With Warren Buffett For Charity Lunch (#GotBitcoin?)

Witches Love Bitcoin

Bitcoin’s Potential To Benefit The African And African-American Community

Coinbase Becomes Direct Visa Card Issuer With Principal Membership

Bitcoin Achieves Major Milestone With Half A Billion Transactions Confirmed

Jill Carlson, Meltem Demirors Back $3.3M Round For Non-Custodial Settlement Protocol Arwen

Crypto Companies Adopt Features Similar To Banks (Only Better) To Drive Growth (#GotBitcoin?)

Top Graphics Cards That Will Turn A Crypto Mining Profit (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Usage Among Merchants Is Up, According To Data From Coinbase And BitPay

Top 10 Books Recommended by Crypto (#Bitcoin) Thought Leaders

Twitter Adds Bitcoin Emoji, Jack Dorsey Suggests Unicode Does The Same

Bitcoiners Are Now Into Fasting. Read This Article To Find Out Why

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Billionaire Investor Tim Draper: If You’re a Millennial, Buy Bitcoin

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If You Missed Out On Investing In Amazon, Bitcoin Might Be A Second Chance For You (#GotBitcoin?)

2020 And Beyond: Bitcoin’s Potential Protocol (Privacy And Scalability) Upgrades (#GotBitcoin?)

US Deficit Will Be At Least 6 Times Bitcoin Market Cap — Every Year (#GotBitcoin?)

Central Banks Warm To Issuing Digital Currencies (#GotBitcoin?)

Meet The Crypto Angel Investor Running For Congress In Nevada (#GotBitcoin?)

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How Not To Lose Your Coins In 2020: Alternative Recovery Methods (#GotBitcoin?)

H.R.5635 – Virtual Currency Tax Fairness Act of 2020 ($200.00 Limit) 116th Congress (2019-2020)

Adam Back On Satoshi Emails, Privacy Concerns And Bitcoin’s Early Days

The Prospect of Using Bitcoin To Build A New International Monetary System Is Getting Real

How To Raise Funds For Australia Wildfire Relief Efforts (Using Bitcoin And/Or Fiat )

Former Regulator Known As ‘Crypto Dad’ To Launch Digital-Dollar Think Tank (#GotBitcoin?)

Currency ‘Cold War’ Takes Center Stage At Pre-Davos Crypto Confab (#GotBitcoin?)

A Blockchain-Secured Home Security Camera Won Innovation Awards At CES 2020 Las Vegas

Bitcoin’s Had A Sensational 11 Years (#GotBitcoin?)

Sergey Nazarov And The Creation Of A Decentralized Network Of Oracles

Google Suspends MetaMask From Its Play App Store, Citing “Deceptive Services”

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Coinbase CEO Armstrong Wins Patent For Tech Allowing Users To Email Bitcoin

Bitcoin Has Got Society To Think About The Nature Of Money

How DeFi Goes Mainstream In 2020: Focus On Usability (#GotBitcoin?)

Dissidents And Activists Have A Lot To Gain From Bitcoin, If Only They Knew It (#GotBitcoin?)

At A Refugee Camp In Iraq, A 16-Year-Old Syrian Is Teaching Crypto Basics

Bitclub Scheme Busted In The US, Promising High Returns From Mining

Bitcoin Advertised On French National TV

Germany: New Proposed Law Would Legalize Banks Holding Bitcoin

How To Earn And Spend Bitcoin On Black Friday 2019

The Ultimate List of Bitcoin Developments And Accomplishments

Charities Put A Bitcoin Twist On Giving Tuesday

Family Offices Finally Accept The Benefits of Investing In Bitcoin

An Army Of Bitcoin Devs Is Battle-Testing Upgrades To Privacy And Scaling

Bitcoin ‘Carry Trade’ Can Net Annual Gains With Little Risk, Says PlanB

Max Keiser: Bitcoin’s ‘Self-Settlement’ Is A Revolution Against Dollar

Blockchain Can And Will Replace The IRS

China Seizes The Blockchain Opportunity. How Should The US Respond? (#GotBitcoin?)

Jack Dorsey: You Can Buy A Fraction Of Berkshire Stock Or ‘Stack Sats’

Bitcoin Price Skyrockets $500 In Minutes As Bakkt BTC Contracts Hit Highs

Bitcoin’s Irreversibility Challenges International Private Law: Legal Scholar

Bitcoin Has Already Reached 40% Of Average Fiat Currency Lifespan

Yes, Even Bitcoin HODLers Can Lose Money In The Long-Term: Here’s How (#GotBitcoin?)

Unicef To Accept Donations In Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Former Prosecutor Asked To “Shut Down Bitcoin” And Is Now Face Of Crypto VC Investing (#GotBitcoin?)

Switzerland’s ‘Crypto Valley’ Is Bringing Blockchain To Zurich

Next Bitcoin Halving May Not Lead To Bull Market, Says Bitmain CEO

Tim Draper Bets On Unstoppable Domain’s .Crypto Domain Registry To Replace Wallet Addresses (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Developer Amir Taaki, “We Can Crash National Economies” (#GotBitcoin?)

Veteran Crypto And Stocks Trader Shares 6 Ways To Invest And Get Rich

Have I Missed The Boat? – Best Ways To Purchase Cryptocurrency

Is Chainlink Blazing A Trail Independent Of Bitcoin?

Nearly $10 Billion In BTC Is Held In Wallets Of 8 Crypto Exchanges (#GotBitcoin?)

SEC Enters Settlement Talks With Alleged Fraudulent Firm Veritaseum (#GotBitcoin?)

Blockstream’s Samson Mow: Bitcoin’s Block Size Already ‘Too Big’

Attorneys Seek Bank Of Ireland Execs’ Testimony Against OneCoin Scammer (#GotBitcoin?)

OpenLibra Plans To Launch Permissionless Fork Of Facebook’s Stablecoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Tiny $217 Options Trade On Bitcoin Blockchain Could Be Wall Street’s Death Knell (#GotBitcoin?)

Class Action Accuses Tether And Bitfinex Of Market Manipulation (#GotBitcoin?)

Sharia Goldbugs: How ISIS Created A Currency For World Domination (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Eyes Demand As Hong Kong Protestors Announce Bank Run (#GotBitcoin?)

How To Securely Transfer Crypto To Your Heirs

‘Gold-Backed’ Crypto Token Promoter Karatbars Investigated By Florida Regulators (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto News From The Spanish-Speaking World (#GotBitcoin?)

Financial Services Giant Morningstar To Offer Ratings For Crypto Assets (#GotBitcoin?)

‘Gold-Backed’ Crypto Token Promoter Karatbars Investigated By Florida Regulators (#GotBitcoin?)

The Original Sins Of Cryptocurrencies (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Is The Fraud? JPMorgan Metals Desk Fixed Gold Prices For Years (#GotBitcoin?)

Israeli Startup That Allows Offline Crypto Transactions Secures $4M (#GotBitcoin?)

[PSA] Non-genuine Trezor One Devices Spotted (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Stronger Than Ever But No One Seems To Care: Google Trends (#GotBitcoin?)

First-Ever SEC-Qualified Token Offering In US Raises $23 Million (#GotBitcoin?)

You Can Now Prove A Whole Blockchain With One Math Problem – Really

Crypto Mining Supply Fails To Meet Market Demand In Q2: TokenInsight

$2 Billion Lost In Mt. Gox Bitcoin Hack Can Be Recovered, Lawyer Claims (#GotBitcoin?)

Fed Chair Says Agency Monitoring Crypto But Not Developing Its Own (#GotBitcoin?)

Wesley Snipes Is Launching A Tokenized $25 Million Movie Fund (#GotBitcoin?)

Mystery 94K BTC Transaction Becomes Richest Non-Exchange Address (#GotBitcoin?)

A Crypto Fix For A Broken International Monetary System (#GotBitcoin?)

Four Out Of Five Top Bitcoin QR Code Generators Are Scams: Report (#GotBitcoin?)

Waves Platform And The Abyss To Jointly Launch Blockchain-Based Games Marketplace (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitmain Ramps Up Power And Efficiency With New Bitcoin Mining Machine (#GotBitcoin?)

Ledger Live Now Supports Over 1,250 Ethereum-Based ERC-20 Tokens (#GotBitcoin?)

Miss Finland: Bitcoin’s Risk Keeps Most Women Away From Cryptocurrency (#GotBitcoin?)

Artist Akon Loves BTC And Says, “It’s Controlled By The People” (#GotBitcoin?)

Ledger Live Now Supports Over 1,250 Ethereum-Based ERC-20 Tokens (#GotBitcoin?)

Co-Founder Of LinkedIn Presents Crypto Rap Video: Hamilton Vs. Satoshi (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Insurance Market To Grow, Lloyd’s Of London And Aon To Lead (#GotBitcoin?)

No ‘AltSeason’ Until Bitcoin Breaks $20K, Says Hedge Fund Manager (#GotBitcoin?)

NSA Working To Develop Quantum-Resistant Cryptocurrency: Report (#GotBitcoin?)

Custody Provider Legacy Trust Launches Crypto Pension Plan (#GotBitcoin?)

Vaneck, SolidX To Offer Limited Bitcoin ETF For Institutions Via Exemption (#GotBitcoin?)

Russell Okung: From NFL Superstar To Bitcoin Educator In 2 Years (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Miners Made $14 Billion To Date Securing The Network (#GotBitcoin?)

Why Does Amazon Want To Hire Blockchain Experts For Its Ads Division?

Argentina’s Economy Is In A Technical Default (#GotBitcoin?)

Blockchain-Based Fractional Ownership Used To Sell High-End Art (#GotBitcoin?)

Portugal Tax Authority: Bitcoin Trading And Payments Are Tax-Free (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin ‘Failed Safe Haven Test’ After 7% Drop, Peter Schiff Gloats (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Dev Reveals Multisig UI Teaser For Hardware Wallets, Full Nodes (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Price: $10K Holds For Now As 50% Of CME Futures Set To Expire (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Realized Market Cap Hits $100 Billion For The First Time (#GotBitcoin?)

Stablecoins Begin To Look Beyond The Dollar (#GotBitcoin?)

Bank Of England Governor: Libra-Like Currency Could Replace US Dollar (#GotBitcoin?)

Binance Reveals ‘Venus’ — Its Own Project To Rival Facebook’s Libra (#GotBitcoin?)

The Real Benefits Of Blockchain Are Here. They’re Being Ignored (#GotBitcoin?)

CommBank Develops Blockchain Market To Boost Biodiversity (#GotBitcoin?)

SEC Approves Blockchain Tech Startup Securitize To Record Stock Transfers (#GotBitcoin?)

SegWit Creator Introduces New Language For Bitcoin Smart Contracts (#GotBitcoin?)

You Can Now Earn Bitcoin Rewards For Postmates Purchases (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Price ‘Will Struggle’ In Big Financial Crisis, Says Investor (#GotBitcoin?)

Fidelity Charitable Received Over $100M In Crypto Donations Since 2015 (#GotBitcoin?)

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Just The Existence Of Bitcoin Impacts Monetary Policy (#GotBitcoin?)

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IRS To Cryptocurrency Owners: Come Clean, Or Else!

Coinbase Accidentally Saves Unencrypted Passwords Of 3,420 Customers (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Is A ‘Chaos Hedge, Or Schmuck Insurance‘ (#GotBitcoin?)

Bakkt Announces September 23 Launch Of Futures And Custody

Coinbase CEO: Institutions Depositing $200-400M Into Crypto Per Week (#GotBitcoin?)

Researchers Find Monero Mining Malware That Hides From Task Manager (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Dusting Attack Affects Nearly 300,000 Addresses (#GotBitcoin?)

A Case For Bitcoin As Recession Hedge In A Diversified Investment Portfolio (#GotBitcoin?)

SEC Guidance Gives Ammo To Lawsuit Claiming XRP Is Unregistered Security (#GotBitcoin?)

15 Countries To Develop Crypto Transaction Tracking System: Report (#GotBitcoin?)

US Department Of Commerce Offering 6-Figure Salary To Crypto Expert (#GotBitcoin?)

Mastercard Is Building A Team To Develop Crypto, Wallet Projects (#GotBitcoin?)

Canadian Bitcoin Educator Scams The Scammer And Donates Proceeds (#GotBitcoin?)

Amazon Wants To Build A Blockchain For Ads, New Job Listing Shows (#GotBitcoin?)

Shield Bitcoin Wallets From Theft Via Time Delay (#GotBitcoin?)

Blockstream Launches Bitcoin Mining Farm With Fidelity As Early Customer (#GotBitcoin?)

Commerzbank Tests Blockchain Machine To Machine Payments With Daimler (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin’s Historical Returns Look Very Attractive As Online Banks Lower Payouts On Savings Accounts (#GotBitcoin?)

Man Takes Bitcoin Miner Seller To Tribunal Over Electricity Bill And Wins (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin’s Computing Power Sets Record As Over 100K New Miners Go Online (#GotBitcoin?)

Walmart Coin And Libra Perform Major Public Relations For Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Judge Says Buying Bitcoin Via Credit Card Not Necessarily A Cash Advance (#GotBitcoin?)

Poll: If You’re A Stockowner Or Crypto-Currency Holder. What Will You Do When The Recession Comes?

1 In 5 Crypto Holders Are Women, New Report Reveals (#GotBitcoin?)

Beating Bakkt, Ledgerx Is First To Launch ‘Physical’ Bitcoin Futures In Us (#GotBitcoin?)

Facebook Warns Investors That Libra Stablecoin May Never Launch (#GotBitcoin?)

Government Money Printing Is ‘Rocket Fuel’ For Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin-Friendly Square Cash App Stock Price Up 56% In 2019 (#GotBitcoin?)

Safeway Shoppers Can Now Get Bitcoin Back As Change At 894 US Stores (#GotBitcoin?)

TD Ameritrade CEO: There’s ‘Heightened Interest Again’ With Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Venezuela Sets New Bitcoin Volume Record Thanks To 10,000,000% Inflation (#GotBitcoin?)

Newegg Adds Bitcoin Payment Option To 73 More Countries (#GotBitcoin?)

China’s Schizophrenic Relationship With Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

More Companies Build Products Around Crypto Hardware Wallets (#GotBitcoin?)

Bakkt Is Scheduled To Start Testing Its Bitcoin Futures Contracts Today (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Network Now 8 Times More Powerful Than It Was At $20K Price (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Exchange BitMEX Under Investigation By CFTC: Bloomberg (#GotBitcoin?)

“Bitcoin An ‘Unstoppable Force,” Says US Congressman At Crypto Hearing (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Network Is Moving $3 Billion Daily, Up 210% Since April (#GotBitcoin?)

Cryptocurrency Startups Get Partial Green Light From Washington

Fundstrat’s Tom Lee: Bitcoin Pullback Is Healthy, Fewer Searches Аre Good (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Lightning Nodes Are Snatching Funds From Bad Actors (#GotBitcoin?)

The Provident Bank Now Offers Deposit Services For Crypto-Related Entities (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Could Help Stop News Censorship From Space (#GotBitcoin?)

US Sanctions On Iran Crypto Mining — Inevitable Or Impossible? (#GotBitcoin?)

US Lawmaker Reintroduces ‘Safe Harbor’ Crypto Tax Bill In Congress (#GotBitcoin?)

EU Central Bank Won’t Add Bitcoin To Reserves — Says It’s Not A Currency (#GotBitcoin?)

The Miami Dolphins Now Accept Bitcoin And Litecoin Crypt-Currency Payments (#GotBitcoin?)

Trump Bashes Bitcoin And Alt-Right Is Mad As Hell (#GotBitcoin?)

Goldman Sachs Ramps Up Development Of New Secret Crypto Project (#GotBitcoin?)

Blockchain And AI Bond, Explained (#GotBitcoin?)

Grayscale Bitcoin Trust Outperformed Indexes In First Half Of 2019 (#GotBitcoin?)

XRP Is The Worst Performing Major Crypto Of 2019 (GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Back Near $12K As BTC Shorters Lose $44 Million In One Morning (#GotBitcoin?)

As Deutsche Bank Axes 18K Jobs, Bitcoin Offers A ‘Plan ฿”: VanEck Exec (#GotBitcoin?)

Argentina Drives Global LocalBitcoins Volume To Highest Since November (#GotBitcoin?)

‘I Would Buy’ Bitcoin If Growth Continues — Investment Legend Mobius (#GotBitcoin?)

Lawmakers Push For New Bitcoin Rules (#GotBitcoin?)

Facebook’s Libra Is Bad For African Americans (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Firm Charity Announces Alliance To Support Feminine Health (#GotBitcoin?)

Canadian Startup Wants To Upgrade Millions Of ATMs To Sell Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Trump Says US ‘Should Match’ China’s Money Printing Game (#GotBitcoin?)

Casa Launches Lightning Node Mobile App For Bitcoin Newbies (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Rally Fuels Market In Crypto Derivatives (#GotBitcoin?)

World’s First Zero-Fiat ‘Bitcoin Bond’ Now Available On Bloomberg Terminal (#GotBitcoin?)

Buying Bitcoin Has Been Profitable 98.2% Of The Days Since Creation (#GotBitcoin?)

Another Crypto Exchange Receives License For Crypto Futures

From ‘Ponzi’ To ‘We’re Working On It’ — BIS Chief Reverses Stance On Crypto (#GotBitcoin?)

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Venezuelan Explains How Bitcoin Saves His Family (#GotBitcoin?)

Quantum Computing Vs. Blockchain: Impact On Cryptography

This Fund Is Riding Bitcoin To Top (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin’s Surge Leaves Smaller Digital Currencies In The Dust (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Exchange Hits $1 Trillion In Trading Volume (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Breaks $200 Billion Market Cap For The First Time In 17 Months (#GotBitcoin?)

You Can Now Make State Tax Payments In Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Religious Organizations Make Ideal Places To Mine Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Goldman Sacs And JP Morgan Chase Finally Concede To Crypto-Currencies (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Heading For Fifth Month Of Gains Despite Price Correction (#GotBitcoin?)

Breez Reveals Lightning-Powered Bitcoin Payments App For IPhone (#GotBitcoin?)

Big Four Auditing Firm PwC Releases Cryptocurrency Auditing Software (#GotBitcoin?)

Amazon-Owned Twitch Quietly Brings Back Bitcoin Payments (#GotBitcoin?)

JPMorgan Will Pilot ‘JPM Coin’ Stablecoin By End Of 2019: Report (#GotBitcoin?)

Is There A Big Short In Bitcoin? (#GotBitcoin?)

Coinbase Hit With Outage As Bitcoin Price Drops $1.8K In 15 Minutes

Samourai Wallet Releases Privacy-Enhancing CoinJoin Feature (#GotBitcoin?)

There Are Now More Than 5,000 Bitcoin ATMs Around The World (#GotBitcoin?)

You Can Now Get Bitcoin Rewards When Booking At Hotels.Com (#GotBitcoin?)

North America’s Largest Solar Bitcoin Mining Farm Coming To California (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin On Track For Best Second Quarter Price Gain On Record (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Hash Rate Climbs To New Record High Boosting Network Security (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Exceeds 1Million Active Addresses While Coinbase Custodies $1.3B In Assets

Why Bitcoin’s Price Suddenly Surged Back $5K (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin’s Lightning Comes To Apple Smartwatches With New App (#GotBitcoin?)

E-Trade To Offer Crypto Trading (#GotBitcoin)

US Rapper Lil Pump Starts Accepting Bitcoin Via Lightning Network On Merchandise Store (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitfinex Used Tether Reserves To Mask Missing $850 Million, Probe Finds (#GotBitcoin?)

21-Year-Old Jailed For 10 Years After Stealing $7.5M In Crypto By Hacking Cell Phones (#GotBitcoin?)

You Can Now Shop With Bitcoin On Amazon Using Lightning (#GotBitcoin?)

Afghanistan, Tunisia To Issue Sovereign Bonds In Bitcoin, Bright Future Ahead (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Faithful Say Blockchain Can Remake Securities Market Machinery (#GotBitcoin?)

Disney In Talks To Acquire The Owner Of Crypto Exchanges Bitstamp And Korbit (#GotBitcoin?)

Crypto Exchange Gemini Rolls Out Native Wallet Support For SegWit Bitcoin Addresses (#GotBitcoin?)

Binance Delists Bitcoin SV, CEO Calls Craig Wright A ‘Fraud’ (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Outperforms Nasdaq 100, S&P 500, Grows Whopping 37% In 2019 (#GotBitcoin?)

Bitcoin Passes A Milestone 400 Million Transactions (#GotBitcoin?)

Future Returns: Why Investors May Want To Consider Bitcoin Now (#GotBitcoin?)

Next Bitcoin Core Release To Finally Connect Hardware Wallets To Full Nodes (#GotBitcoin?)

Major Crypto-Currency Exchanges Use Lloyd’s Of London, A Registered Insurance Broker (#GotBitcoin?)

How Bitcoin Can Prevent Fraud And Chargebacks (#GotBitcoin?)

Why Bitcoin’s Price Suddenly Surged Back $5K (#GotBitcoin?)

Zebpay Becomes First Exchange To Add Lightning Payments For All Users (#GotBitcoin?)

Coinbase’s New Customer Incentive: Interest Payments, With A Crypto Twist (#GotBitcoin?)

The Best Bitcoin Debit (Cashback) Cards Of 2019 (#GotBitcoin?)

Real Estate Brokerages Now Accepting Bitcoin (#GotBitcoin?)

Ernst & Young Introduces Tax Tool For Reporting Cryptocurrencies (#GotBitcoin?)

How Will Bitcoin Behave During A Recession? (#GotBitcoin?)

Investors Run Out of Options As Bitcoin, Stocks, Bonds, Oil Cave To Recession Fears (#GotBitcoin?)

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